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  1. #11
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    2,619
    Location
    Bedford, VA
    Tractor
    John Deere 2320

    Default Re: Edge for rear blade

    Quote Originally Posted by sld View Post
    Wood should work fine. It seemed to me the composite was less prone to splintering than wood. Especially after I routed the edge. It is very smooth.

    Time will tell.

    My 5 foot blade has 8 half inch carriage bolts. Yours doesn't sound like overkill at all.
    To be honest I was going to go with 1/2" bolts until i realize a 1/2" drill bit at my lowes was around $15 and a 3/8" was about $5.. $15 was too much for drilling 6 holes IMHO.. LOL

    I only have about $15 in my entire setup (bolts, bit, and board).. We get so little snow in the past years, they board will probably rot out before I wear it out..

    BTW - I didnt go with pressure a treated board - Was that a mistake?

    Brian
    Bedford, VA
    2320 w/ 62D MMM, 200CX FEL, Pats EZ Change, LX4 Cutter
    Co-owner (with my father) of John Deere 790, 30 HP, 4x4, 513 cutter, 70 FEL
    2012 Nissan Xterra Pro-4x

  2. #12
    Elite Member dodge man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    4,112
    Location
    West central Illinois
    Tractor
    Kubota BX2350

    Default Re: Edge for rear blade

    I ordered a rubber edge from a company called Rubber Cal, it was listed in a previous post. It's going to end up costing about $100 by the time I'm done. The rubber strip was $45, I bought a steel strip to sandwich up against my rear blade, some metal cutting blades for my sawzall, 2 drill bits, some bolts and washers, some cutting oil for a grand total of around $100. How come a $45 project always cost $100?

    I'm sure it will be worth it, I noticed the one time I plowed by driveway, I was pealing up the seam and crack filler I use on my driveway every year.

  3. #13
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    3,304

    Default Re: Edge for rear blade

    I'm not sure it makes much difference using pressure treated wood because wood is probably going to splinter in this application. Maybe if you are grading a very smooth surface without much ice it will last longer.

    Composite decking is another story. I think it will wear down, but I don't forsee it splintering like wood.

    Used conveyor belt, if you could find it, might be the cheapest. I guess you could cut up an old tire tread in a bandsaw even more cheaply, but it seems like a lot of work.

    The way things are priced in the stores, it's tough to do anything for $45 anymore unless you can find what you need at an auction or used someplace.

  4. #14
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Posts
    632
    Location
    Indiana
    Tractor
    New BX2200 4-3-02 (traded 6-08) new B2620 06-08

    Default Re: Edge for rear blade

    I liked the idea of the horse mat sandwiched between the blade and cutting edge. I have a woods blade. I bought a horse mat for 14.00 at TSC and some longer galvenized carriage bolts from Lowes for 6.00. I will put it together tomorrow.

  5. #15
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    130
    Location
    Western Kentucky
    Tractor
    B3030 G1900

    Default Re: Edge for rear blade

    Might not be what you are looking for but, there was a post on another forum that suggested using pvc pipe. I cut a three inch and slid on my blade and it has worked great for gravel. Not sure how long it will last on blacktop but the price is right.

  6. #16
    Gold Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    421
    Location
    Iowa
    Tractor
    Kubota GL3830/GL5030

    Default Re: Edge for rear blade

    The PVC idea certainly sounds cool. Think that would be of any benefit with a front snow blade setup that has the adjustable skid feet on it? This will be the first year for me using this setup and I am concerned about getting rid of the gravel.

  7. #17
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Posts
    632
    Location
    Indiana
    Tractor
    New BX2200 4-3-02 (traded 6-08) new B2620 06-08

    Default Re: Edge for rear blade

    LQ, Tell us more... Cannot picture what you are doing..

    Tom

  8. #18
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    882
    Location
    Harpers Ferry WV
    Tractor
    Kubota L4330, 6 rear remotes

    Default Re: Edge for rear blade

    The PVC works this way ...look at it end-on, it looks like an "O" ...cut a slit lengthwise and now, end-on, it looks like a "C" ...slide it onto the blade ...a hole or two in the PVC and a "set screw" or two might be needed.

  9. #19
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    2,619
    Location
    Bedford, VA
    Tractor
    John Deere 2320

    Default Re: Edge for rear blade

    YOu can also do a metal pipe.. Split it down the middle then drill some holes along the length of the pipe.. Weld nuts to each hole.. then insert bolts thru nuts(and pipe) tighten them agains the blade (or FEL) to keep it from coming loose..

    I would have gone this route, but I have no way of cutting the pipe.. :-(

    Brian
    Bedford, VA
    2320 w/ 62D MMM, 200CX FEL, Pats EZ Change, LX4 Cutter
    Co-owner (with my father) of John Deere 790, 30 HP, 4x4, 513 cutter, 70 FEL
    2012 Nissan Xterra Pro-4x

  10. #20
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    130
    Location
    Western Kentucky
    Tractor
    B3030 G1900

    Default Re: Edge for rear blade

    Joel has answered your how and why. So far I've had to hammer the pvc on and off, not sure you would have to secure unless you're in deep stuff.

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