Champion 10,000 lb winch @ Sam's Club

[sixdogs]

Thank you all. Lots of solid user advice from knowledgeable people.

 

[WantedWolf]

as i said ive yet to mount it so its great to get the bugs out first

I suppose the solinoid would be a waste of $ if you never use the trailer winch
while conected to the truck (just an auto switch on when ignition is on right?)

I would want to be able to use the trailer winch while not connected to my truck incase a friend borrows the trailer or something else.

I said welding cable but yeah any heavy wire would do so long as it can handle the heat if drawing from the trucks electrical system some 20ft away. the flexability would help using the connector.
as for charging I belive you could use the +12v on a 7way trailer plug (about 12/14gauge wire, but would never use the winch while connected to that charging system )

I am concerned about the extended use part because as mention by others these "cheap" winches are slow, my trailer is 30ft my new alternator is 136amp and specs say the winch will draw 340amps on a 10000# single line pull@ 3ft/min. the blue tops mca is 870 and the rc is 120 i guess that would make up the difference.

These are the connectors i want to use in a 350amp model

 

[David Devuono]

Having spent 25 years off-roading, I have a lot of experience getting unstuck. There is quite a lot of things to keep in mind when using an electric winch (or any winch). I would like to add, that that 10,000# at 3ft\min is the rating with the last row of cable on the winch. If you are just using the winch on a 30 foot trailer and the winch has 100ft of cable, you can cut off 50 ft of cable or use a pully block. Otherwise make a mental note that that 10,000 lb winch is only a 5000-6000 # winch if only 30 feet of cable is pulled from the drum. You should also leave 5 wraps of cable on the winch as its not fun trying to reattach the cable, so really you can only pull the max rating for a few feet of cable on the last row. In offroading its recommended at a min to buy a winch 1.5 times the total weight to be carried (truck and contents). Check the size of cable on the winch, 5\16 aircraft cable breaks about 9,300 lbs. A real 10,000 # would need 3/8 cable. I only have a 14ft trailer+ 6ft ramps so my 4,500 lb winch (superwinch) with 50 ft of cable and a pully block works great using about 40 feet of cable to pull up the ramps..

 

[sixdogs]

Having spent 25 years off-roading, I have a lot of experience getting unstuck. There is quite a lot of things to keep in mind when using an electric winch (or any winch). I would like to add, that that 10,000# at 3ft\min is the rating with the last row of cable on the winch. If you are just using the winch on a 30 foot trailer and the winch has 100ft of cable, you can cut off 50 ft of cable or use a pully block. Otherwise make a mental note that that 10,000 lb winch is only a 5000-6000 # winch if only 30 feet of cable is pulled from the drum. You should also leave 5 wraps of cable on the winch as its not fun trying to reattach the cable, so really you can only pull the max rating for a few feet of cable on the last row. In offroading its recommended at a min to buy a winch 1.5 times the total weight to be carried (truck and contents). Check the size of cable on the winch, 5\16 aircraft cable breaks about 9,300 lbs. A real 10,000 # would need 3/8 cable. I only have a 14ft trailer+ 6ft ramps so my 4,500 lb winch (superwinch) with 50 ft of cable and a pully block works great using about 40 feet of cable to pull up the ramps..

David--thank you,

Suppose I bought a better quality or brand of winch, what rating would I want? I would mostly pull 1,000 lb equip on trailer but sometimes a 4,000 lb dead tractor.

 

[WantedWolf]

right thank you David
it does say "line speed and amp draw- first layer"

and it is 3/8 cable

i can certainly see why you should leave 5 wraps,
so really a 10000 lbs rated winch used safely can "never" pull 10000#
(single line) without a snatch block
and at 3ft/min reduced to 1.5ft/min by the snatch block I should consider taking this back before I get it dirty

it would be nice to make a universal mount so I could attach to the truck front or back (seen some good threads here too.) so id hesitate to shorten the line .

 

[David Devuono]

For a given weight, using a snatch block does not really 1/2 the line speed unless you have a PTO winch. Remember if you are pulling for example an 8,000 lb load with a 10,000 lb winch at 5 ft per minute and you use a snatch block, now your winch will only be pulling only a 4000lb load which might allow it to run at 10-13 ft per minute. End result will be that the load moves at the same speed, and the winch works easier. Another advantage of using a pully block is that electric winches have internal brakes, usually up to 50% of the winch capacity. So you can hold double the load up on the ramp when you release the button. You will notice that an electric winch spools the cable in (no load) faster then it lets the cable out. This is because you are working against the internal brake and its a big drain on the battery. Buy a winch that can freewheel the cable out.
A 4000 lb dead tractor that is rolling freely should be easily pulled up a 22% ramp with a 4,500 lb winch using a snatch block and you should be able to single line the 1000 lb load. You will be fine with your Champion winches, though I have heard of them strip out the internal planetary gears, but we are talking about 5,500 lbs of Jeep and supplies working again a mud wall infront of the axles. I can push my 4,000 lb massey on level ground myself. If you need a 10,000 lb winch on a 7,000 lb GVWR trailer you might want to visit the scales to check your load. If you want to pull a 2,000 lb rock onto your trailer then that is a whole different story, buy the big winch. In the past 10 years winch prices have come way down thanks to the Chinese. Just sucks what they are doing to the environment.

 

[sixdogs]

Dvid,

Ok, so I might pull a 1,000 lb or more rock or piece of equipment or maybe a 3,000 lb tractor with a flat up front. So I figure a 7,000 ro 8,000 lb quality winch such as a Ramsey or Warn with freewheel out will do the job? I'd carry a separater battery for the winch.
Lot's of solid advice from everyone here. This board really has some smart people. Thanks to all.

 

[RollTideRam]

right thank you David




it would be nice to make a universal mount so I could attach to the truck front or back (seen some good threads here too.) so id hesitate to shorten the line .

They make a universal mount called a receiver hitch. Mount winch on front or rear of truck and on trailer. The Champion winch may not be on a quick mount like Ramsey and Warn offer, but you can buy the quick mount or make your own. JC

 

[Diamondpilot]

I had the same needs and I put a 3,000# winch on my trailer a few years ago. I use a snatch block and about 50' of cable but it has pulled a Suburban up. Remember that the winch rating is dead pull, not rolling pull. Also remeber that when it hits the ramps it put a strain on things but mine has pulled about 10 cars and tractors up in the last 4 years with zero issues. Most were Cavalier size and the tractors were 8N sized but did it fine for $100. It will single line pull a 8N up or a small car like a Cavalier.

Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Chris

 

[ArTrvlr]

Everyones advice seems great and helpfull to me too
I think I have the same generic 10000# winch , But have yet to mount it
What Ive learned is you need
- a deep cycle battery close to the winch
- Heavy welding type cable for charging
- Quick connection (forklift style best)
- A snatch block
- A weatherproof cover (and oil the drum and wire rope)

I thought I would address the weatherproof cover mentioned by WantedWolf.

This is what I built for mine. It's on a 16' flatbed trailer with wooden sideboards in stake pockets. The cover (doghouse) attaches to the front sideboard. I know, if it is a "side"board why is it on the front? If it is on the front, It can't be a sideboard! So what do you call it, a frontboard? Just trying to head off criticism.

Anyway, the pictures are pretty much self explanatory, except, the strip across the top, that is a piece of PVC shower liner to waterproof the hinge area. It is held in place with aluminum strips meant to hold down the edge of vinyl flooring. The piece of pipe strapped to the top of the winch is what I use to lay in the ramp channel at the rear of the trailer so the cable has a smooth surface to drag over. When closed the whole thing just sits down around the channel the winch is mounted in. There is an opening in the "sideboard" for the roller fairlead and cable to pass through, so it can be used without removing anything, just open the lid (it latches in the open position). The plywood and 2X4's are all treated, and all screws are either stainless steel or deck screws rated for treated lumber. All other metal parts (hinges and latches) are sprayed with undercoating where they touch the treated wood. If you put steel, even cadmium plated, against treated wood it will rust right away.