I purchased a used Ford 3400 tractor, it had new ( made in China) sway bars attached. Both bars are the same length, and seem to contain a left and right bar, judging the bends in the bar. The problem is, when I connect any piece of three point equipment, I can only attach one bar. The other bars hole is off about 1", no way I can connect the second bar. I've tried various three point equipment implements, even an implement that is new. Any ideas on what I am doing wrong or can try, are appreciated!
Stabilizer / sway bar connection problem
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mwb
Platinum Member
My ford 2000 had only one sway bar; try eliminating one of yours.
The only way you can use two is if at least one of them had an adjustable stroke. If you think about it, having two fixed length bars creates a 'zero tolerance' condition (because of triangulation on both sides) that makes it impossible to connect anything.
Newer machines tend to have chain or turnbuckle style stabilizers on both sides; both sides are adjustable. The advantage of this is that you don't put one stabilizer bar in compression - the other side stabilizes the load shift under tension. The single solid bar will work but you will probably notice that it flexes significantly when under compression. This was not a problem for mine because it was a very good quality spring steel and it would return straight. You will have this problem mainly if you are pushing backwards (back blade).
Cheers,
Mike
The only way you can use two is if at least one of them had an adjustable stroke. If you think about it, having two fixed length bars creates a 'zero tolerance' condition (because of triangulation on both sides) that makes it impossible to connect anything.
Newer machines tend to have chain or turnbuckle style stabilizers on both sides; both sides are adjustable. The advantage of this is that you don't put one stabilizer bar in compression - the other side stabilizes the load shift under tension. The single solid bar will work but you will probably notice that it flexes significantly when under compression. This was not a problem for mine because it was a very good quality spring steel and it would return straight. You will have this problem mainly if you are pushing backwards (back blade).
Cheers,
Mike
Farmwithjunk
Super Member
Make certain the pins under the axle are directly in line with the lower link pivot bolts. Now.... Some tractors, my Massey Ferguson 150 as an example, use a stabilizer bar that's a bit longer than the "normal" aftermarket bars. Once upon a time, the longer bars were commonly available. No more. I make mine. (actually, cut and add a section into the shorter bars) Also, there are turnbuckle style bars available (at places like TSC) that will adjust to fit about any application.
Brad_Blazer
Veteran Member
Here is a not so great picture of mine. The Chinese quality is low but the design is okay. There is one on each side and the other end of the tube section has about 1" of freeplay in the pinned connection. I use 3/8" "PTO lock pins" for the adjusting pins. If you are inspired to make some, nested square tubing would keep the holes aligned better.
If the ones you have are made from flat bar they will tend to buckle in compression when using only one. You can weld a stiffener along the length to prevent buckling.
You do know that now that you have a tractor you are required to buy a welder by posting the "which one is best?" question here on TBN. Then you have to post close-up pictures of the welds on your first project.
Just jerking your chain First Time Poster "Rookie"! Congratulations on the "new" tractor and Welcome to TBN!
Brad
If the ones you have are made from flat bar they will tend to buckle in compression when using only one. You can weld a stiffener along the length to prevent buckling.
You do know that now that you have a tractor you are required to buy a welder by posting the "which one is best?" question here on TBN. Then you have to post close-up pictures of the welds on your first project.
Just jerking your chain First Time Poster "Rookie"! Congratulations on the "new" tractor and Welcome to TBN!
Brad
I would suggest going to your local tractor dealer to see if they have a set of "turnbuckle" sway chains that can be used on your machine. I'm not sure what they might cost, but I'll bet you would be happier in the long run if you can find a set that would work.
3RRL
Super Member
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2005
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- 6,825
- Tractor
- 55HP 4WD KAMA 554 and 4 x 4 Jinma 284
I'll say it's not that good Brad, I can't even see it!
LOL ... I guess you forgot to add the photo Brad.
Brad and I have the same tractor so I'll post a photo of mine. It's not too often I get to pull Brad's chain a little...
The first one shows the stabilizer with a broken pin that attaches to the lower lift arm. I fixed that but it shows what Brad is talking about. Perhaps you can see the "slot" at the left end of the larger tube to give it the free play? It's partly covered up by the washer in the first photo.
These square ones have the same principle. They came stock on my wife's Jinma.
I like the square tubing ones better than the round ones on our Kama's.
Brad_Blazer
Veteran Member
Rob,
Thanks for taking up my slack.
I like the picture of Loretta's tractor because it demonstrates how the sway bar attachment points are in line with the lower arm pivot axis.
Here's that picture I forgot:
Thanks for taking up my slack.
I like the picture of Loretta's tractor because it demonstrates how the sway bar attachment points are in line with the lower arm pivot axis.
Here's that picture I forgot:
