Box Scraper Newbie - box blade don't sit straight.

[city_boy_done_good]

This is my beautiful new rig, my first tractor ever and I can't believe how much work this thing can do. How did I ever live without a FEL???

Anyways, have switched box blade and shredder a couple of times but last time I put the box blade on it wasn't straight and one edge would drag too deep. I straightened it up by shortening the adjustment on the PTO arm on the right side (this seemed strange at the time as I had never touched it just slid - well that's not quite the right word as I hate changing over attachments - the box blade/shredder on and off) and it sat straight and workded fine. After a few hours work I noticed that looking from behind the box blade was still not sitting straight - i.e. in between the two wheels.

I ain't too good at describing this and don't know all the right names for all these adjustments etc., I am hoping the reason seems obvious to someone and can give me a couple tips. Thanks in advance, this is a great forum, all very helpful

 

[greg_g]

The lower lift arms are the ones that connect to the implement pins. They got up and down in sync with the upper lift arms. The upper lift arms are the ones sticking out the sides of the lift box. The lowers are attached to the uppers by means of two vertical links, one left - one right.

The left one is semi-fixed, in that you can only vary the distance between upper and lower lift arms by the various hole combinations on the lower end. The right one is adjustable, like a turnbuckle. I expect on a Ford you'd turn it right to shorten it, left to lengthen it.

When you have the left vertical stabilizer in the lower hole of choice, then shorten or lengthen the right vertical stabilizer until both sides are level

//greg//

 

[Bird]

City boy, it sounds as if you did the proper adjustment to get it level, but didn't tighten the jam nut to keep vibration from re-adjusting it. If you had it level and it changed, that's about the only thing I can think of.

And welcome to Tractorbynet.

 

[SnowRidge]

Are the pins on the box blade the bolt on type? If they are, make sure both of them are good and tight. Check your sway links or check chains. Make sure both sides are adjusted the same, and the box blade has some but not too much side to side play. Check this with the tractor on level ground and the box blade level. Make sure the box blade isn't being pulled to one side.

 

[sunspot]

After a few hours work I noticed that looking from behind the box blade was still not sitting straight - i.e. in between the two wheels.

This sounds like the stabilizer bar is missing or out of wack.

 

[city_boy_done_good]

Thanks for all the helpful replies. I will be back at the property this weekend so hopefully can get this sorted out. If I can't I will psot some pics.

 

[jinman]

According to the parts diagram, you have a handcrank on the right liftarm link instead of a turnbuckle. This is common on Ford/New Holland tractors. The crank can be adjusted 4-6 inches in length and it is common to make a levelling adjustment everytime you change implements. It's also an extremely good tool to use when hooking up your 3PH. I get the left arm attached and then adjust the right arm to hook up. After it is hooked, I then level the implement and then latch the handcrank so it does not move while using the tractor.

I'm really surprised your tractor dealer did not show you this when your tractor was delivered. This is just basic tractor operation like filling with gas and checking fluids. In my opinion you deserve a short tutorial. I'm sorry you didn't get it.

BTW: In your first post, you called the 3-point hitch (3PH) the PTO. The PTO is the rotating shaft that you hook up to a rotary cutter or other implement like a rototiller. It will take a little while, but if you read enough posts on TBN, you'll be spoutin' acronyms with the best of us. Welcome to TBN.

 

[kebo]

quote:" It will take a little while, but if you read enough posts on TBN, you'll be spoutin' acronyms with the best of us. "

I kept seeing "TNT" here and was wondering what the heck you guys were using explosives for on your tractors!!! Was sometime before I saw a thread dealing with top-n-tilt and I went, "Oh, so that's what they're talking about"! LOL. I've owned tractors for 10 years but never before been around a tractor that had that feature. Learn something new everyday, huh?

 

[skipmarcy]

The drawpins on your boxblade and/or cutter could be getting bent some during use, mine do all the time, they are supposed to give. Better to bend the drawpins than damage lift arms. If they aren't bent badly you can take a 10 lb. sledge and straighten them back out for a little more abuse before having to change them. It doesn't take much bending to unlevel an implement either. Replacements aren't expensive. I keep 5 or 6 pair of them handy. If you don't want to go thru the trouble to bend them straight or replace them just adjust your levelling link when needed.

 

[PA hayseed]

City boy, it sounds as if you did the proper adjustment to get it level, but didn't tighten the jam nut to keep vibration from re-adjusting it. If you had it level and it changed, that's about the only thing I can think of.

And welcome to Tractorbynet.

Too true, happens all the time. Look at it at hook up and it appears ok. Start using it and you look back and it is out of wack.

I'm not saying that this is the issue, but don't overlook the obvious little things that we all tend to forget to check from time to time.