skid steer mount problems.

[KennyV]

I notice in your second picture you have a tie down strap hanging from the SS adapter mounted to your tractor.
Just a word of caution if that adapter did not come with a warning. That is a light weight adapter, never lift anything with the loader unless you have an attachment securely locked on the adapter. If you do lift without a solid fixture you run the risk of racking the adapter as it will skew out of square. The top angle iron and bottom rod are strictly for spacing and will not keep the lift arms traveling with each other. That is where you may be getting an alignment error.
If after you check the fit against another attachment and you find it is the bucket that is off a bit, use a die grinder to gently trim the tight slot to accommodate the angle of the locking pin.
As to locking depth, they look right. Those pins are very hard and will not bend or break. KennyV

 

[wedge40]

I notice in your second picture you have a tie down strap hanging from the SS adapter mounted to your tractor.
Just a word of caution if that adapter did not come with a warning. That is a light weight adapter, never lift anything with the loader unless you have an attachment securely locked on the adapter. If you do lift without a solid fixture you run the risk of racking the adapter as it will skew out of square. The top angle iron and bottom rod are strictly for spacing and will not keep the lift arms traveling with each other. That is where you may be getting an alignment error.
KennyV

The straps in the photo were being used to "pull" the bucket back up right.
Wedge

 

[Redneck in training]

I have to ask, do to the limited space, what kind of grinder did you use to get in there and grind the hole bigger.

Wedge

I think the part welded to the bucket is somewhat warped. I would give it a whack (while the bucket is attached) with a hammer. Then, if it still needs adjustment, I would use a file to make the hole bigger.

 

[J_J]

wedge40,

After you set the levers down/engaged, the pins might not go down all the way, but after shaking it around a little, the springs should set the pins as tight as possible, and looking at the photos, the pins seem to set on the bolts that connect the pins to the lever and springs, which is as far as you can go. 3/4 to 1 in seems reasonable enough. If you have to take any metal off, and it doesn't look like you have to take much off, a roto-tool with a carbide cutter should shape it up fine. The wedges on my Case skidsteer go in fine, releasing is my problem.
You might also make sure the sloped face of the pins are smooth as possible, and the matching surface on the adapter plate. File and sand as necessary, plus lithium grease.

 

[Lunk]

I have the SS QA on my loader, and I know they don't have to be off by much to be a real bear to hook-up. I have a SS Utility Bucket that I use for snow removal, and due to it's size, I leave it outside, while the tractor's kept in the shed. After struggling with the levers the first couple snowfalls, I found that if I didn't remove all the snow (and I do mean all...) from the mounting plate, the snow would compress into a thin layer that would misalign the pins.

I never thought that a little powder could make my life that miserable. But then, I plow snow with R-4's, so I must be miserable anyways...



Lunk

 

[jmc]

Wedge,

Since both of your attachments are a problem, I'd take a hard look at the locking linkages before I started whittling on anything expensive. If those springs are fully compressed before the linkages lock, maybe you could cut of a half coil or so from the spring(s). At least you can buy new springs if that doesn't work. The penetration looks about like mine do and I haven't had a problem yet. I sent you a PM.

John

 

[wedge40]

Wedge,

Since both of your attachments are a problem, I'd take a hard look at the locking linkages before I started whittling on anything expensive. If those springs are fully compressed before the linkages lock, maybe you could cut of a half coil or so from the spring(s). At least you can buy new springs if that doesn't work. The penetration looks about like mine do and I haven't had a problem yet. I sent you a PM.

John

John.. If I dont have anything mounted I've got the springs adjusted so it's easy to lock them into place. I'm going to make some measurements on the mount so see if the depth from the face of the mount to back of the pins is within spec. What ever that is.

Wedge

 

[J_J]

The pins appear to be doing what they are supposed to do. If they will not set deep enough, then the plate needs some work. Reducing the pressure on the springs will do nothing but put less force on the pins, and you want the pins to be strong and pushing at all times. with the lever in the set position. Can you take pictures with each plate attached?

 

[AKfish]

John.. If I dont have anything mounted I've got the springs adjusted so it's easy to lock them into place. I'm going to make some measurements on the mount so see if the depth from the face of the mount to back of the pins is within spec. What ever that is.

Wedge

When looking at your pics - the base of the bucket mount appears to fit pretty flush with the base of the FEL mount.

And I couldn't see alot of space between the bottom of the locking pin slide tube and the base of the bucket mount, either.

So, you may have the answer (above)... the spring adjustment for the pins.. are they equal?

As others have noted - a little bit of filing could be just the needed adjustment, too.

Let us know how you solved the problem.

AKfish

 

[J_J]

Have you checked the adapter plate for warping, other wise, on the backside where the plates are welded , check the side to side, and top to bottom with a straight edge. If the levers are locked down with an implement attached, I don't think you can force the pins to recede and cause you to lose control under normal condition.