Box Scraper Box Blade Scraper Repairs

   / Box Blade Scraper Repairs #1  

smgutsch

New member
Joined
Nov 10, 2008
Messages
9
Location
Illinois
Tractor
Kubota L4300DT
I started this discussion on the thread begun by Giddyup "Box blade opp. Will it work for me? (Mine was response #46). I had come across an add for "Gill box scraper for 3 pt. hitch 65" wide x 30" deep." There were some pictures supplied (I posted them in response #65). They didn't show much. I called the guy but he couldn't tell me much about the particulars but he thought it was in pretty good shape. Well on Saturday the 14th I told the wife I was going to look at a possible diamond in the rough and took a drive out to look at it. I was very disappointed. The guy failed to tell me the back blade was missing, The front blade was bent, and he could only find 3 scarifier teeth. Having drove over an hour to see it plus wading through a quarter mile of mud to where it was I figured I'd offer a low price and when the guy rejected it I could go look for a better box blade. Unfortunately he accepted my offer.

So, my questions are:
1. How is the best way to straighten the blade? The lower portion is a sandwich of: 1/2" x 6" hard steel blade, 3/16" - 1/4" Curved part (not sure what to call it like a plow share) and backed by a 2-1/2 x 3 x 1/2" thick angle welded on. Plow bolts go through the 3 leg. Should I:
A.) Straighten it with everything as is.
B.) Remove the hard steel blade and straighten the angle and share together. Then straighten the blade seperately?
C.) Remove the hard steel blade and cut off the angle. Then straighten the share and weld on a new angle?
Has anyone done this before? What has worked?

2. I have 3 Scarifier teeth. There are slots for 9. How many teeth do I really need? Teeth cost $37.74
3. I did some research. It was definitely made by Gill, Woods owns Gill and the only Scraper they show that is 65 wide and has slots for 9 teeth is a model B10. Does anyone own one of these or can verify by the pictures attached that it is in fact a B10?
4. How badly do I need the back blade? Woods does not show one on their parts list, but with some design help I think I could fabricate one. The 1/2" x 6" x 65" cutting blade cost $78.12

I appreciate any advice I can get. I'm new to this. I just built the barn last year and I want to finish the drive this year. The last picture shows why I want to get another 3-6" of gravel on the drive. The gravel is in the background I just need to spread it.

P.S. When I got home after delivering the box blade to the barn, I was a bit muddy, a little disappointed and very much in trouble with the wife. Somehow all she heard me say was "I was going out to get something special? and "something about a diamond in the rough". I totally forgot that on February 14th a body is not supposed to be thinking about box scrapers and definitely not referring to farm equipment as "diamond" anything. But that's another story.
 

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   / Box Blade Scraper Repairs #2  
Yep, you really stepped in it on the 14th!
Hopefully you will be able to get it together and get HER driveway fixed!
David from jax
 
   / Box Blade Scraper Repairs #3  
To start with teeth you don't need any , unless you are going to rip up tight packed dirt, rocks. Then you may need all of them.
The bend in the blade, you will probably find very difficult to get perfect, but you really don't need it perfect... actually it will likely do everything you want it to do just like it is. The rear blade is handy but again the need is of some question. That rear blade will make it both heavier and stronger, both are good for BB.

You did not say how much did you pay for it. You still may have a great deal compared to buying a new one. KennyV

PS I would not want to be on a tractor flying along fast enough to bend a BB like that.
 
   / Box Blade Scraper Repairs #4  
Nice lake :D Go ahead and start using it for the rock you have, straight edges are not needed to move that rock. Do you have a place to drian that water to... away from the road? Tilt the BB and cut a ditch with it... also, don't need a straight edge for that.

If you pick up the BB is the bottom edge worn flat? You may not have to do much to it. Just learn how to use it as is... I would try and get a rear blade for it. I use my RB to level things out; my front blade is only for cutting...
 
   / Box Blade Scraper Repairs #6  
Well Smugutsch, you've bought yourself a project just like I did.

First off, you are missing the entire rear plate, not just the rear blade. It's supposed to be a hinged back blade that mounts where you see the pin receptacles. This plate rests against those support fins you have there. It is also a complex piece of steel, at least as originally designed, with several folds, kinks, and more support structures welded to the back. While it's possible to make one, you have to decide if it's worth the trouble and expense. Go to Woods website and look for hinged boxblade. The new designs are similar. I wouldn't bet that a new one would fit either, at least not without modification. But, at least you can see what it is supposed to look like.

On the old Gill that I bought the back blade is identical to the front. You are able to get new blades. Just measure the hole locations and number and they can match it. If you can get it for under $100, that would be a good deal.

As for the other blade, you probably can use it just like it is. If the bolts are loose, it might straighten some by tightening. However, the blade is hardened steel: very difficult to work.

If you take that blade off, you might find what I have: that the mounting holes are broken out. I have to drill and weld in a new piece to attach my blade to in that wedge.

The missing scarifiers is another bummer, as you have found out how expensive they are.

If I had that box, I'd probably just use it like it is. I wouldn't even paint it. It will work fine for spreading and leveling your gravel, I think.

If you want a more fully functioning box, I'd just look for another one.
 
   / Box Blade Scraper Repairs #7  
Here are some photos of the hinged rear plate. The first has it tied up, open. You can how complicated it is, and where the actual blade mounts. The second one it is closed.
 

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   / Box Blade Scraper Repairs #8  
The bend was probably due to the missing back blade.

Looks to me like that model has a floating backblade. If so, it would add very little support to the front blade when pulling material in the forward direction, especially at the bottom edge of the front blade. I think you could probably straighten out that blade with a good size hydraulic bottle jack. The problem would be getting the blade and the jack positioned between two immovable objects to apply the pressure. Like if you could sit the front part of the boxblade where the two front corners are flush against two big trees, and then a third tree in the middle of the backside of the blade, then lay the jack horizontal and see if you could "jack" the bend out of it. If it started bending in one spot instead pushing on the whole blade, then you could put a piece of thick heavy flatstock between the jack and the blade so it would spread out the pressure more evenly. If you could straighten it out like that, it would surely be a lot less work than taking it apart to do it!
Good luck!
Keith
 
   / Box Blade Scraper Repairs #9  
...Having drove over an hour to see it plus wading through a quarter mile of mud to where it was I figured I'd offer a low price and when the guy rejected it I could go look for a better box blade. Unfortunately he accepted my offer......

I dunno, smgutsch, looks pretty good to me for most BB work... I bet a few of us will be envious if we heard the price you paid... Of course, the real price will be compounded by the interest of your better half reminding you for your faux pas for the next decade or two.. ES
 
   / Box Blade Scraper Repairs #10  
Torch off the bolts that hold the cutting edge (the removable part). Heat the support structure with a torch (o/ac with large rosebud tip), then whack the bend out of it with a 8# sledge. Bolt on a new cutting edge. The cutting edge is probably high carbon steel and it won't like being heated or beaten. You could have a shop with a press straighten it (or try). It may shatter. New cutting edge would be in the $10-20 per linear ft.

Or just use as is.

jb
 
 
 
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