Just Picked Up My First Implements!

[yeagisyeag]

$100 each, i would not pass that up even if would not work on my tractor. I bet Farmwithjunk would know if it would work by taking one of the plows off.

Thanks intel, glad you agree.

I managed to get the front plow and frame unbolted and separated.

The 3 nuts came loose with a bit of grunting, then out came the 5lb'er and:

BING....

BING....

BING....

RIIIINNNNGGGG...

Holy crap that's loud!

EARPLUGS!

A FEW DOZEN MORE SWINGS.....

Almost to the end of the bolts.....

"Maybe I should support this thing before it comes"

//////sharp wheel thing drops onto, then rolls over shoe, just like in slo-mo\\\\\\

"apart."

Lucky for me, no damages!

I'll be building a support to rest this thing on.....

Jim

 

[allen in texas]

aah man!
It's all broke now.

 

[mjarrels]

I stand corrected... looks like you are on to something... I never thought you could lift it let alone plow!

mark

 

[kebo]

Kebo,
That's a nice looking scoop, you just sanded, not sandblasted? I have some por15 I was thinking of using, just would need to knock off the loose stuff.

I also have a few products from Eastwood that I've been using on my floorpan patching project on my old convertible. A 2 part converter and their equivalent to por15, only in a spray can.

On switching the pins around, my arms wouldn't spread that far, so I successfully moved the pins from outboard to inboard. No 1 3/16" socket, so I used a pipe wrench and my monster channel locks and actually broke them loose by hand!

I hooked it up and did a little scraping behind the garage, still pretty frozen but I moved a little soil so all is good!

I do agree about the reversible/newer scoops, I actually assumed all were until I started getting the pictures from potential sellers. From what I've seen, newer = more $$, like about triple, so I'll live with what I have here. I also have a welder and might look into adding links to the rear of the scoop in the future.

Thanks for your input!
Jim

Glad you got the scoop to fit. You're ready to move some dirt now, well, after the spring thaw anyway! With some tubing or channel iron I'm sure you could add a frame for pins on the opposite end and make it reversible. Sounds like a good winter project.
As for sanding mine, I actually used a belt sander with rough grit belts on most of the flat surface. Went pretty quick like that too. Then just primed and painted it afterwards. So far holding up pretty good.

 

[yeagisyeag]

Allen, I'm sure we can work something out. I hope you don't mind waiting a few weeks so I can give it a shot, to see how it works.

I'm not sure exactly what kind of bearings there are supposed to be in the coulters, but they both feel sloppy. I noticed a spacer with a tab to stop it from rotating around on either side of the disc, they are free. The grease fittings would need replaced. They sort of pivot on the 1" or so solid bar (it's got sort of a Z- bend) and the pivot shows some slop and wear. One of these bars is repaired with a braze.

I was thinking I could make a quick video and put it on youtube if you want to see the shape they're in.

Now the plow/tire spacing, that will have to be something I ask about after I get that thing in the dirt. Not sure if it matters, but I ended up removing the front (right) plow, and am hoping to be using the rear one. I'm sure that I'll just be scratching the surface of the plow knowledge.

My B7100 is rated 16hp engine, 14hp pto.

And thanks for the rule of thumb, I'm surprised I haven't seen that before in my reading here, but it makes me more comfortable with trying it out with a single plow.

I'll keep you posted!

Jim

I am specifically interested in one of the coulter assemblies.
Maybe the whole plow if it comes to that.

The reason I asked for the picture from the rear, is to see the location of the front bottom in relation to the right rear tire. I can't really tell from the angle of the picture but I would guess that the plow would need to move to the left or you need to space your tires out further. There's can be quite a bit to this plowing business as I've found out and learned on this site. Lot's of smarter people than me here, that's or sure.
Personally, I think you can pull a single bottom OK but certainly not both.
and of course that depends on what you are pulling it thru.
Is the 16 HP engine hp or PTO hp?
It's been stated here many times, a general rule of thumb about the HP requirements of a plow is 1 HP per inch of bottom.
So, a 2 bottom 14 inch plow would need 28 HP.

 

[yeagisyeag]

I stand corrected... looks like you are on to something... I never thought you could lift it let alone plow!

mark

Judging by how my back feels today, I'm damned glad that tractor did it!

I've got to figure something out for moving this heavy stuff around....

Jim

 

[allen in texas]

Jim, the "bearings" on the coulters are iron. The end caps are one type and the hub is another type but I fergit what it actually is. I'm thinking grey iron and sintered iron but like I said, I fergit.
The slop can be taken out by tightening the bolt that runs through the hub but the disk must turn freely after pulling out the slack. There has to always be a bit of slack because of the nature of the beast and they live in grease.

The original diameter of the coulter disk itself was 15 1/2 inches. Just by looking at the pictures, the coulters and shins are totally worn out.
The part I need most is the fork that holds the coulter and hub and the clamp and spacer that holds it to the rod.

If you price a coulter disk from the number I gave you, you are going to get a shock. How about $100 just for the disk?
I bought a john deer planter disk with bearing for $37, removed the bearing, had the center hole opened up to the correct diameter and replaced one of my coulters. The disk was 15 inches but my other one was worn to just under 15 so it works and matches ok.
I'm just short one coulter assembly.

I certainly don't mind waiting and I'm ok if you need to put the plow back together and sell it.
After all, I'm the begger here.

As far as the rule of thumb, I pull a 14 inch two bottom with 25 pto hp and I think I pull it well. I know that I could use a bit more power but you use what you have, right?
I think your worst problem will be your tires.

BTW, these people sell parts for old plows. They are closed right now (maybe) but are supposed to open back up this month.

http://www.crescentforge.com/home/home.htm

 

[yeagisyeag]

Hey, I finally got a support bracket built and bolted to the left side of my plow! I used a piece of 3" angle and hole-sawed it up, made some spacers from pipe and I think I'm ready?

It rained the last 3 days, is raining today and I'm off tomorrow. No chance of not getting stuck in the mud trying it out. Bummer

Plus it's an hour drive to the property just to see how much mud? Double bummer

Allen, I'll add comments between yours:

Jim, the "bearings" on the coulters are iron. The end caps are one type and the hub is another type but I fergit what it actually is. I'm thinking grey iron and sintered iron but like I said, I fergit.
The slop can be taken out by tightening the bolt that runs through the hub but the disk must turn freely after pulling out the slack. There has to always be a bit of slack because of the nature of the beast and they live in grease.

Ok that makes sense. So the hub rides against the end caps, and filling the cavity of the hub w/grease keeps them from wearing? Guess that takes a bit of grease to keep things happy.... But I guess what other kind of bearing would be happy in that environment?

The original diameter of the coulter disk itself was 15 1/2 inches. Just by looking at the pictures, the coulters and shins are totally worn out.
The part I need most is the fork that holds the coulter and hub and the clamp and spacer that holds it to the rod.

Oh yeah, those discs are toast! The shins are actually not even there anymore. This leads me to ask a question: I found a few shins out there, but they say LH and I don't know if it's right for my plow. Mine looks as if it would throw the soil to the right?? Here's a link: SHIN FORD LH - Agri Supply
As far as the shares go, I can't seem to find anything that looks similar. These are the horizontal parts on the bottom, right?

If you price a coulter disk from the number I gave you, you are going to get a shock. How about $100 just for the disk?
I bought a john deer planter disk with bearing for $37, removed the bearing, had the center hole opened up to the correct diameter and replaced one of my coulters. The disk was 15 inches but my other one was worn to just under 15 so it works and matches ok.
I'm just short one coulter assembly.

I certainly don't mind waiting and I'm ok if you need to put the plow back together and sell it.
After all, I'm the begger here.

As far as the rule of thumb, I pull a 14 inch two bottom with 25 pto hp and I think I pull it well. I know that I could use a bit more power but you use what you have, right?
I think your worst problem will be your tires.

BTW, these people sell parts for old plows. They are closed right now (maybe) but are supposed to open back up this month.

CF&S -Home Page

Ah yes, the turf tires. I was worried about that. I have some chains the seller gave to me, wonder if that would help?

I'm curious, are the coulter disks flat, or dished a bit, when new? About how thick are they?

Waiting for a few dry days,
Jim

 

[allen in texas]

The coulter disks are flat and are about 1/8 inch thick. The John Deere I used is a bit thicker than that but should work ok.

One thing, and this is where I'll need help from the experts here.
Your plow is a Dearborn and mine is a Ford. Some parts are the same and some aren't. I just don't know what parts will interchange.

The first number I gave you...
Scott or Alan may get you shins and shares, their parts are for Fords. The fact that the shins are totally gone may give you some trouble but the shares should have a number on them.
The link to crescent forge lists different part numbers for Ford and Ferguson and they say to call them if a part is not listed but I called their number and it is disconnected




I'm surprised that agri supply has left hand shins but even more surprised that they don't list right hand shins. Yes your plow is right hand.
You said you can't find any shares like yours, it seems to me that the shares on your plow are too small (short) and very worn. A new share, properly sized, and this is just my opinion, will be much larger and you may actually be seeing a share for your plow and just don't recognize it.

I know I'm not being much help here, I'm just talking but I've gone through this very thing while I was rebuilding my plow.

I sit at my desk most of the time and if you want, provide me more info on your plow and I can do some searching for you. Maybe I can come up with something.

Still, here on tractorbynet FWJ is the best bet for this sort of info.


This is a copy and paste from another website telling you about Scott. The first number I gave you


For Sale: Ferguson, Dearborn and Ford implement parts including corn picker parts and plow shares, moldboards and landsides, your old plow parts will have numbers on the back to identify the style you have. Price: Contact me
Phone: 717-896-3414 weekdays

 

[Ford850]

Agri Supply sells RH shins too. They are listed on the same site you posted. Some TSC stores carry parts too. The points/shares are sometimes interchangeable with 3 or 4 hole designs, and longer shares can be cut down to fit too. Agri Supply and Valu-bilt both have more parts available in their printed catalogs than online. Or at least they are easier to find and research in the catalogs. Also, check your local NH dealer. Some of them carry replacement wear parts yet.
Oh, and your 10-214 plow is a 12" not 14" plow. It shouldn't really matter with the parts you are looking for, but just so you know it is a 12" model.