Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 21 to 26 of 26
  1. #21
    Silver Member yeagisyeag's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    105
    Location
    Northern Ohio
    Tractor
    Kubota B7100HST, International IH454, John Deere F910

    Default Re: Just Picked Up My First Implements!

    Here's an update on how the disassembly is going.

    Was a little warmer yesterday, so I got busy unbolting more stuff. Both coulter assemblies have been removed, with 1 casualty: While hammering on the coulter stem, the looseness of the bearings made one of the ears or tabs on the outer bearing snap off. I really hate to see that, completely avoidable, drat. All the outer bearings seem to have had 2 ears at one time, but the lower ones are all worn off. I'm pretty sure, being iron, I can't weld the tab back on, but I may be wrong?

    Both shares are removed, left-hand threaded bolts I found out! Luckily, my sop w/rusty stuff is to tighten slightly, then loosen. (Working on cars in northeast Ohio, I've seen my share of rusty!) So at first I thought I was just snapping off the bolt, but it hit me and all came loose ok after that. I removed the remainder of one of the shins, see photo. There's not enough left there to find any numbers on, I'm afraid. By the looks of the wear on the moldboard, I'll bet this thing was used without shins a few times.

    A big thank you to Ford850 for correcting me on plow size and the NH dealer advice. I actually did a model number search on their website's parts and service catalog, and they have a listing for mine. The number on the back of my shares matches what I found there: 105203 SHARE Share, Economy, Regular, R.H., 12

    My plow is: "10-214 ECONOMY PLOW, 12" TWO BOTTOMS, SOD & CLAY 1/54-12/56)"

    Allen, you might already have this stuff, but I found 2 different pdf scans of Ford and Dearborn plow manuals/user guides at this site: WFMFiles.com
    Also, your input on the share is helpful. I guess I'm just having a hard time picturing things. The rounded off leading edge of mine should be more like a point, and the edge would be parallel somewhat to the rear?

    I've also taken a photo from the rear as you requested earlier, only with the single bottom remaining on the plow. Any thoughts are surely welcome! There's also a lot of info in those pdf's about use and adjustments, but I'm afraid I'll have to get things in the dirt before I maybe understand.....

    I think I'm now ready to make those calls and get a shin and share. I may have found a coulter disk that I want to try and use as a replacement, but that may wait since it looks like I'll have to cut the rivets on the inner bearing. The thru-bolt doesn't look too friendly, either. Would there be anything wrong with trying the plow w/no coulter assembly in place for now?

    Thanks,

    Jim
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -img_4124-jpg   -img_4125-jpg   -img_4128-jpg   -img_4129-jpg   -img_4130-jpg  

    -img_4131-jpg   -img_4123-jpg  

  2. #22
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,351
    Location
    Ohio
    Tractor
    Case DX55, Ford 850

    Default Re: Just Picked Up My First Implements!

    You can get by without coulters, especially if you are not turning sod or heavy growth. The coulters do help by slicing through any crop residue and starting the cut in clay soils. It's not going to hurt anything to try without them though, and the new shares and shins will help you.

  3. #23
    Platinum Member allen in texas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    745
    Location
    Levelland, TX
    Tractor
    Kubota Grand L 5740, loaded R1's w/642 lbs cast weight, 854 loader

    Default Re: Just Picked Up My First Implements!

    Jim,
    I downloaded the manuals you linked to. Thanks for that and the pictures.

    Looks like you have your work cut out for you.

    Once you get new shares and shins, then you can really start to work on the setup of your plow.
    Coulters are not an absolute necessity unless you are cutting through trash or heavy sod.

    Not many farmers here use coulters when they break but our ground here is sandy loam.

    The reason I asked for the shot from the rear is so I could see the relationship of the bottom to the tires. I suggested removing the front bottom on another thread and I kinda got shot down but I suggested it because of the narrow wheel spacing on a smaller tractor like yours.
    On a full size two bottom plow, the front bottom runs almost directly behind the tire on a small tractor.

    In a perfect world, with the cant of the plow correct in relation to the depth you are plowing, the point of your share with your twelve inch plow should be 12 inches from the inside sidewall of your right tire.
    That is so that when you have your tire in the furrow, the plow takes a full twelve inch cut in new ground. You can fudge on that a little.
    Does that make sense?

    Also, removing the rear bottom as suggested removes the landslide as well, a rolling landslide in your case, and that causes problems with the plow tracking properly. without the landslide, the plow is going to try and pull the rear of the tractor to the left.
    Looks to me you are pretty close but it's hard to tell without a good share on the plow.

    All you gotta do is keep up the good work.

    Now just a few random thoughts on wear... (rant maybe?)
    My plow shins were worn to nothing as were the shares. My moldboards are quite thin but thankfully, not worn through.
    It never ceases to amaze me that people will continue to use a plow with worn out wear parts to the point that the non wear parts are damaged.
    My frogs were worn and I burned up a lot of welding wire and grinding wheels building everything back up to the point that my new parts fit properly.
    Your plow was much abused. A few replaced parts at a very low cost relative to the cost of the plow itself would have prevented this.
    anyway, rant off.

    Oh and pass me a beer, wouldja?
    KK 72" tiller Rears SPF 72 inch Flail, FL960 knives, Cammond BS72E 6 foot BB,
    HF Quick hitch, RBT3584 rear blade.
    assorted two and 4 row diamond bar equipment, all junky.
    20 ft Big Tex 70CH
    Maxey 14000# 16'x83" GN dump trailer
    Oliver 6241 3 bottom rollover moldboard plow
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdEStYYl1Ts
    I like straight furrows
    1960 model 102 Ford 14 inch two bottom rollover plow on my little L3240

  4. #24
    Silver Member yeagisyeag's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    105
    Location
    Northern Ohio
    Tractor
    Kubota B7100HST, International IH454, John Deere F910

    Default Re: Just Picked Up My First Implements!

    Quote Originally Posted by allen in texas View Post
    Coulters are not an absolute necessity unless you are cutting through trash or heavy sod.

    Not many farmers here use coulters when they break but our ground here is sandy loam.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ford850 View Post
    You can get by without coulters, especially if you are not turning sod or heavy growth. The coulters do help by slicing through any crop residue and starting the cut in clay soils. It's not going to hurt anything to try without them though, and the new shares and shins will help you.
    This is good to know, thanks. There is green stuff that has been mowed where I plan my garden, but I can just mow really low before I'm set to plow.

    I'm just afraid that it'd cause more damage if I attempted to use either coulter in their current condition.

    Quote Originally Posted by allen in texas View Post
    The reason I asked for the shot from the rear is so I could see the relationship of the bottom to the tires. I suggested removing the front bottom on another thread and I kinda got shot down but I suggested it because of the narrow wheel spacing on a smaller tractor like yours.
    On a full size two bottom plow, the front bottom runs almost directly behind the tire on a small tractor.

    In a perfect world, with the cant of the plow correct in relation to the depth you are plowing, the point of your share with your twelve inch plow should be 12 inches from the inside sidewall of your right tire.
    That is so that when you have your tire in the furrow, the plow takes a full twelve inch cut in new ground. You can fudge on that a little.
    Does that make sense?
    Yes it does.

    I'm attaching a picture of an adjustment for where the plow tracks. The pdf mentioned that 1/4" here should make the plow move 1". More rusty threads to contend with there, maybe no threads left at all! I could always use a nut splitter, then fashion some type of clamp to hold in place. Another thought is that I can move the rear tires in further on the axles.

    All you gotta do is keep up the good work.
    Thanks. I wish I were moving along a little faster. Cold, rain, I got a million excuses! Let's just say I'm pacing myself, don't want to be ready before the dirt is!

    Now just a few random thoughts on wear... (rant maybe?)
    My plow shins were worn to nothing as were the shares. My moldboards are quite thin but thankfully, not worn through.
    It never ceases to amaze me that people will continue to use a plow with worn out wear parts to the point that the non wear parts are damaged.
    My frogs were worn and I burned up a lot of welding wire and grinding wheels building everything back up to the point that my new parts fit properly.
    Your plow was much abused. A few replaced parts at a very low cost relative to the cost of the plow itself would have prevented this.
    anyway, rant off.
    I agree completely. This is another situation where I find my lack of knowledge led me to believe the plow was pretty much ready to use. Not really the case but at $100 I can't really complain. I don't mind learning as I go either, it suits me better to spend more time than money, if you know what I mean.

    I guess that after a while, the purchase price is forgotten, so wearing it out isn't a big deal. A 50 year old anything? Many would rather buy cheap China crap from Harbor Freight than spend a dime on something so old. (There's my rant!)

    Oh and pass me a beer, wouldja?
    Certainly! But let's call it, "Project Fuel."

    Jim
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -img_4126-jpg  

  5. #25
    Platinum Member allen in texas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    745
    Location
    Levelland, TX
    Tractor
    Kubota Grand L 5740, loaded R1's w/642 lbs cast weight, 854 loader

    Default Re: Just Picked Up My First Implements!

    Dang!!

    What rusty threads?

    I don't see any threads.




    Uh, OK.

    I'm running bit low on, uh, fuel.
    KK 72" tiller Rears SPF 72 inch Flail, FL960 knives, Cammond BS72E 6 foot BB,
    HF Quick hitch, RBT3584 rear blade.
    assorted two and 4 row diamond bar equipment, all junky.
    20 ft Big Tex 70CH
    Maxey 14000# 16'x83" GN dump trailer
    Oliver 6241 3 bottom rollover moldboard plow
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdEStYYl1Ts
    I like straight furrows
    1960 model 102 Ford 14 inch two bottom rollover plow on my little L3240

  6. #26
    Silver Member yeagisyeag's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    105
    Location
    Northern Ohio
    Tractor
    Kubota B7100HST, International IH454, John Deere F910

    Default Re: Just Picked Up My First Implements!

    Progress report:

    I took the rolling landslide bearing in to work and got it apart and free, all lubed up and happy.

    I know I mentioned the "ear" that I snapped off one of the outer coulter bearing cones, but I'm not sure if I noted here that they were all 4 missing the bottom "ears." Seems years of use just wore them right off.

    A friend at work offered to build them up with welds, so I got the rods he asked for and boy were we surprised that a tube of 11 cost $65! Anyway, he got all of the ears built up with welds, then I took them home and ground things into shape. I wasn't too concerned with making the outside look like original. I figure the more metal there the better.

    Note: If anyone needs some 1/8" nickel something-or-other welding rods, for welding cast iron, I'll be putting the remainder on Ebay to try to recoup the cost.

    Next for the plow is the wear parts and attempting to replace the coulter disks.

    I was really happy to find that my dirt scoop actually is reversible! While moving it around, I noticed another pin on the opposite corner from the latch. I hesitate to call something over 1" dia a pin, but, for lack of a better term...

    The pins (there's that word again!) that the scoop pivots on took a little convincing to come out, but I got it switched around to point backwards and found a few other snags! Since I turned the lower 3 pt pins inward on the mounts, now they interfere with the dump action. I also noticed that I wasn't able to lift this thing quite high enough to get a good dump from the scoop, so I cut off the mounts and will reattach them slightly more outward and lower on the frame.

    We spent an hour or so out at the property last Tuesday, and things are looking pretty good/dry, so I'm getting closer yet to trying out the plow!

    Stay tuned,

    Jim
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -img_4152-jpg   -img_4156-jpg   -img_4157-jpg  

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
© 2014 TractorByNet.com. TractorByNet is a registered trademark of IMC Digital Universe, Inc. Other trademarks on this page are the property of their respective owners.