Rotary Cutter Rotary Cutter - Center Link Recommended?

[Beltzington]

An individual with much more experience then myself told me the center link on the 3-point is only required to lift the mower. Yesterday I mowed about 1-acre with the center link disconnected. Other then I seemed to have to play with the lower arms height adjustment more than last time it did not seem to make much difference. I had also lowered (raised) the tail wheel so I am not sure if that is why I was occasionally digging the front of the mower in the ground or the missing center link. This is very hilly terrain with several washouts. This certainly eliminates lifting the tail wheel of the ground. Any thoughts? TIA

 

[greenmule]

The top link does a couple of things,it raises your mower and it stops mowers rear end from coming up[something you should be carefull about].

Now having said that,I use a chain for top link,it lets rear of mower float plus lets you raise it a little.
set your mower up about level front to back and side to side[same amount of inches from bottom to ground],I got mine about 5 inches plus or minus high.Most tractors have a stop on three point arms lowering/raising lever,you can than set that stop and it won't go any lower after you raise it.

But you should keep in mind that the chain won't stop it from coming up[rear of mower] if you catch front edge on something.

The ground I cut,I know it like the back of my hand and know that theres no stumps/rocks and know where the dips are that might catch front edge,etc.

 

[JoeL4330]

have posted about this before ...I use the HF quick hitch adapter with my toplink so I get swing and can still lift ...works just fine for my RB ...actually, my rotary and finish mowers came with swinging toplinks

 

[greg_g]

I'm guessing you either lost the floating toplink bracket, or the RC didn't come with one. In either case, it will solve your problem. View the attached photo. This one is in fact adjusted incorrectly, but you'll get the idea.

The floating bracket is pinned in such a manner that it rotates fore and aft on the mower A-frame. The adjustable toplink is then pinned to the floating bracket. The guy in the photo should have the floating bracking pointed straight up to mow. That way when his front tractor tires go down, the bracket will pivot forward - leaving the mower tail wheel on the ground. The opposite happens when the tractor front tires go up. When the mowing's done, the adjustable toplink is shortened so that the floating bracket is pointing toward the tractor; the transport position.

The tail wheel is what regulates your cutting height. Bolt it in place to approximate the desired height, then adjust the vertical links on the tractors lower lift arms so that the front of the mower deck is about an inch lower than the rear. If you don't have enough adjustment in the vertical links, you can further regulate the height of the mower front with the hydraulic lift lever stops.

The proper tail wheel adjustment and a floating toplink should get you back on the right track

//greg//

 

[greenmule]

My cutter came with that u shaped thing thats supposed to let it float,it didn't work good enough to suit me. Thats when I went with the chain.
Some on here have said to use a piece of pipe shorter than chain,with chain inside,to prevent the back of mower from coming up to far,it might be a good idea,never tried it,looks like pipe would just go side ways,but guess it would bind up before it came up to far.

 

[dirt ditch]

I remove my imatch, then the top link and replace it with a home made floating link made out of a length of flat steel with a bushing/ball socket on one end that is attached to the tractor, and a chain on the other end attached to the rotary cutter. Having to mow over loose sandy soil, the flexible top link keeps the tractor from pushing the deck into the sand when going up over a hump or starting up a hill. Likewise coming down off a hump or starting down a hill the flexible top link becomes tight and lifts the deck up keeping it out of the sand.

 

[kthompson]

Based upon a good friend recommendation ran my cutter with top link unhooked. Big Mistake. In backing a slope the mower lifted up enough (no top link to stop it and thus my backing) and jammed the pto shaft and then jammed my tractor pto. Blessed the only damage was the front pto was what suffered and I do not use it.

 

[Oldmax]

I live in WV and I did this to avoid the trouble you had . If you look close you will see chains from top of three point to cutter Made same lenght as the bars that they replaced the only thing you have to watch is that you don't get too much of an angle and bottom out PTO shaft. This works great for me.

 

[LD1]

I live in WV and I did this to avoid the trouble you had . If you look close you will see chains from top of three point to cutter Made same lenght as the bars that they replaced the only thing you have to watch is that you don't get too much of an angle and bottom out PTO shaft. This works great for me.

That is actually how the bushhog brand RC I have is made.

If you modify one that is not made this way, You'll probabally have to get locknuts for your lift pins and leave them just a little loose so the deck can pivot around them.

Best pic I could dig up.