Re-build Spray Rig

[rvaitor]

I'm in the process of trying to re-rig up a spray rig from a variety of pieces.

First, I am trying to use old food service 55 gal barrels. The problem is tapping and putting an outlet in the bottom. Anyone have experience with this? A hole cutter will make a nice hole but the issue is how to get to the back/inside side to secure it.

Second issue is I have a boom and plan to re-use the Teejet nozzles. I plan to go with the 8003s. I have the ability to manually cut any of the three boom sections on and off. The plumbing of everything and what to use has me confused. I plan to buy a rotary pump, and a relief valve. Anything else? Do I need and system or main hose cutoff or do I just do that by starting the PTO? The nozzles shut off at 10PSI. I'm probably going to recirculate the fluid on the boom side back into the tank from the top side to agitate the mix.

Here are some pics. The system has wet booms and is 20' wide with 12 nozzles. I understand you can get pretty sophisticated with metering systems and GPS(I might go with just a simple GPS deal at some point but not now).

Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated.

 

[wftree]

I would not cut into the bottom of the drums, I would use a dip tube from the top.

The pump should be plumbed with the relief valve returning the excess to the tanks. When the booms are shut off the pump will still pump and the fluid must go some place, if it can not get back to the tank it will blow out something.

try this site
sprayer plumbing Virginia Tech

 

[rvaitor]

I would not cut into the bottom of the drums, I would use a dip tube from the top.

The pump should be plumbed with the relief valve returning the excess to the tanks. When the booms are shut off the pump will still pump and the fluid must go some place, if it can not get back to the tank it will blow out something.

try this site
sprayer plumbing Virginia Tech

First thanks for the link. I was told the pump would have a hard time drawing fluid from the to and and to try and draw from the bottom. I guess it would self prime. Have you done this from the top only?

 

[kthompson]

I can not tell are the barrels metal or plastic? If metal can you not have a port brazed onto them? As to using a dip tube sure would be safe but can not remember seeing a sprayer that way. Would think issue is lift.

Teejet makes a control valve that sells from about mid $60's to probably about $80 depending on the model and where you buy. It is made for 3 section booms and allows all possible combos to be on and others off. You do keep the pump running to keep the chemicals mixed so there must be a relief valve with return to tank. It would seem if you will be using two tanks you may want the return in one tank and the pick up in the other to keep it mixing the best possible. But, have you priced a tank make for your frame? You probably are looking at about $100 to $120 with the ports already in it and make to handle the chemicals and large fill opening and maybe sloped to drain towards pump. One thing I don't like with your barrels is you can not tell how much you have left (my fiberglass tank same issue) so look at setting up a clear volume guage tubing also. Needs to be easy to see from tractor seat or less value.

 

[rvaitor]

I can not tell are the barrels metal or plastic? If metal can you not have a port brazed onto them? As to using a dip tube sure would be safe but can not remember seeing a sprayer that way. Would think issue is lift.

Teejet makes a control valve that sells from about mid $60's to probably about $80 depending on the model and where you buy. It is made for 3 section booms and allows all possible combos to be on and others off. You do keep the pump running to keep the chemicals mixed so there must be a relief valve with return to tank. It would seem if you will be using two tanks you may want the return in one tank and the pick up in the other to keep it mixing the best possible. But, have you priced a tank make for your frame? You probably are looking at about $100 to $120 with the ports already in it and make to handle the chemicals and large fill opening and maybe sloped to drain towards pump. One thing I don't like with your barrels is you can not tell how much you have left (my fiberglass tank same issue) so look at setting up a clear volume guage tubing also. Needs to be easy to see from tractor seat or less value.

I was told about the electric valves - about $100 a piece. The tanks are plastic and the frame was designed for 55Gal drums(the supports in the center between tanks would require a big change to retro). I'm still considering the made for tank option though. I was thinking to use the tanks for different products but could feed off one and return to the other but the spray guy said to either run it back into the tank or upstream from the pump(recirculating through the pump). If I can master putting outlets in the bottom of the drums I could put a sight gauge in that would be nice.

 

[rvaitor]

I can not tell are the barrels metal or plastic? If metal can you not have a port brazed onto them? As to using a dip tube sure would be safe but can not remember seeing a sprayer that way. Would think issue is lift.
.

Well I got a hold of a guy that makes rain barrel containers and he has these fittings that he uses a router to install. Basically these are spun into pre-cut holes and the spinning causes friction which melts and fuses the two pieces together - super slick and I think it will work perfectly for attaching my hoses.

I'll take some pictures and post tomorrow. BTW, I had 1.25" holes and fittings put in on the side bottom of the tank in hopes of protecting the hose attach pieces.

Also ordered all my hardware(pump, teejet nozzles, and relief valve). I'm still going to run it in a manual mode(no electronic valves) but at some point I may upgrade to GPS system with electronic controls - probably $2-3K.

 

[rvaitor]

Here are a couple of pics. The issue was in trying to put these outlets in with no large holes on the top side how do you secure it from the back with this it is basically welded in. Once I get everything working, I plan to paint frame and go to work. I am a little concerned about holding the tanks in place and right now plan to secure them with tie down straps.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Here are a couple of pics. The issue was in trying to put these outlets in with no large holes on the top side how do you secure it from the back with this it is basically welded in. Once I get everything working, I plan to paint frame and go to work. I am a little concerned about holding the tanks in place and right now plan to secure them with tie down straps.

Those are pretty cool little outlets you found for the bottom of those barrels. Do you have a brand name for them or a link?

 

[rvaitor]

Those are pretty cool little outlets you found for the bottom of those barrels. Do you have a brand name for them or a link?

This is the fellow that did them for me. Contact him and he may be able to put you in contact or tell you how to get the fittings. On mine he cut the holes first then spun the fittings in with a router - really slick.

PlugGREEN.com - The Online Resource for Green and Sustainable Businesses

 

[LBrown59]

I would not cut into the bottom of the drums,
*I would use a dip tube from the top.

How would you get the tube through the top of the tank?