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  1. #11
    Elite Member foggy1111's Avatar
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    Dec 2008
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    2,512
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    Nisswa, MN
    Tractor
    JD 3320 eHydro w/ 300CX Loader

    Default Re: KK Disc Report

    Thanks for the advice Ken. I like the idea of taking on part of the load on the next pass...that may work out good. I also will try a second pass at an angle to the first.

    The tractor and disc combination does a pretty good job on the first pass....it's the second pass (when I've got the soil loosened up) that becomes the traction issue. If it wont work out for a second pass....I have a drag harrow and / or a tiller to get the soil into shape. I am hoping though that changing the angle on the disc will allow some cutting and mixing of my soil / trash.
    3320 eHydro, 300CX Loader & 15 + great attachments

    You gotta mine allot of dirt to find a diamond.

  2. #12
    Gold Member
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    Mar 2007
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    363
    Location
    Dimock, Pa.
    Tractor
    Kubota L4240 Kubota B7800, Kubota BX2200

    Default Re: KK Disc Report

    Foggy,
    I have a KK 51/2' and went through the same loosening of everything to change the angle. I haven't changed it since then. I found that I had to have a longer top link than the one which came on my kubota B7800 in order to get penetration on the rear discs. I like the log for weight, and think I will add one to mine.

  3. #13
    Platinum Member FredH's Avatar
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    Jul 2007
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    721
    Location
    Ruch , Oregon
    Tractor
    N.H. TC-30

    Default Re: KK Disc Report

    Have had for several years a KK 6.5 angle frame disk pulled behind my TC30 with Hydrostactic tranny . Were I live in Southern Oregon is a clay type soil that with moisture , can be worked pretty good . Without moisture , use the backhoe instead .

    First thing I fixed was the arms from the top of the top link connection to the back of the frame . These were bolted on thus limiting the amount of adjustment that could be made to back axles . They are now instead welded to the inside of the frame , thus freeing up more space to be less agressive on back axles .

    Second was weight . First added a 4' piece of 3" x 12" x 3/8" I-beam welded on top and at back of frame . On top of that I placed a old 40 gallon galvanized water tank . Depending on moisture content in soil , I run it from 1/2 full to topped off , ( like it is now ) .

    Third was axle spacing / design . Was not impressed with results when confined to a single pass area , ( going between a tree and fence for example ) . Sure can turn around and go back through , but regardless of angle settings on front or back , Front being cupped out , would always throw more out than back would pull in , thus either leaving a trough in middle , with hills on both sides . Or trench's down both sides through the middle of the hills on the outside .

    First tried reversing the blades on front from cupped out to cupped in . But as with the boxed frame , the angle of front axle is wrong , ( to cup in , the axle needs to be angled back from center like picture shows in original post of the back axle ) .

    So then added 4" x 8" x 1/2" steel to tops of the axle mounting brackets changing angle of axle's to angle back from center . Was going to drill additional holes to bolt solid , but since it was working great in both virgin passes as well as additional passes , just welded in place .

    A problem during that process was that front axles were to close initially in center , ( was using smaller steel ) , which caused build-up between axles , thus I used the larger , longer steel pieces .

    Next problem with that though was center would not get disk in those single pass areas . Added and welded 2 pieces of 4" x 3/8" steel from bottom of top link connection down past front of frame with holes drilled high and low and inserted a 16" ripper from Agri Supply , ( used in box blades ) .

    When needed for those single pass areas , I drop the ripper and proceed . Tears up the middle ground pretty good and after the disk passes completely by , it looks like just the disk came through with no trough down middle . Areas were ripper is not needed since I can over lap passes , I raise ripper and pin in place .

    Those pieces of steel are also welded to front of frame providing more support .
    Were I was piling soil up against fence line , is now working its way back to a level surface .

    Terrain : UGH !! Here is were it gets ugly . Worst grade is 12.7 % , That's from the high point in Northeast corner to low point in Southwest corner . Going downhill , SWEET !! Going uphill , Better have weight in FEL bucket to keep front axle with traction , especially after each pass . All I am doing is making fire breaks down south and west side's of property , and keeping the weeds from growing on both sides of our right-a-way for driveway . Driveway is not bad , as it flattens out about half way down .
    But returning back up past that half way mark , need weight in front end .

    Speed also makes a huge difference in how a disk finishes soil . For initial passes , I am in low range . Finish passes , I go up to middle range . Soil then lays out flatter . My brother who still farms here , has the hired help run the same way with a 16' disk behind a challenger .


    Someday I will find my camera cord to connect to my computer , ( which has disappeared into a deep hole some were ) , thus be able to post pictures again . Course , could just buy a new cord , but then would find other and have 2 then .

    Take Care ,

    Fred H.
    Last edited by FredH; 05-16-2009 at 12:34 PM. Reason: spacing

  4. #14
    Elite Member wushaw's Avatar
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    Mar 2005
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    3,075
    Location
    Bristol Texas
    Tractor
    Kubota L2800, 15 hp 372 Mitsubishi

    Default Re: KK Disc Report

    Quote Originally Posted by foggy1111 View Post
    Heres another pic of this disc. I really like the build quality...this disc should hold up pretty well....and it's easy to stack weight on it. I was not too happy with the amount of work it took to change the angle of the front and rear gangs....and this was one of the big features I had anticipated. I figured it would be easy to remove one bolt (at the center) and slide adjust the front and rear gangs to the degree of cut wanted. But nooo......I had to loosen up a buncha bolts to free things up to get the gangs to pivot. Anybody else with one of these, that has a tip on getting it adjusted??? Maybe its just all the fresh paint?

    On second thought....much of my wrench bending had to do with the gangs being set wrong which would not allow the clearance to adjust for the most agressive setting (the U bolts were too close to the frame). Plus I did not have the best tools with me. With this now corrected (the gang setting)....it should not be that big of a deal.

    On the disk I built I did not use bolts for the center bolt you have to remove for adjustment, I used pins and lock nuts for the bolts that attach to the gang arms so the gangs would freely move when I pull the pins for adjustment.
    Here is the link showing pictures.
    http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/b...sk-harrow.html
    Kubota L2800HST, Mitsubishi 372, bh75, 45" Agric tiller, 5' home made disk, 42" Bush hog, PHD, 66" Cammond BB.

  5. #15
    Elite Member foggy1111's Avatar
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    Dec 2008
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    Nisswa, MN
    Tractor
    JD 3320 eHydro w/ 300CX Loader

    Default Re: KK Disc Report

    Thanks for the post Wushaw....and nice build on your disc!

    I had seen where some competing models used pins in lieu of the bolts....as found on my King Kutter. I looked at mine and considered putting pins in place of the bolts when I was adjusting my disc......but I thought the bolt was needed to prevent the center section from "riding up" on the frame. I will definitely look at it again when I get near my disc....as it would be nice to make quick changes in the disc settings via pins instead of bolts.

    You have the same number of blades as I do on the KK and a similar size tractor....how does your tractor pull your disc on the most agressive setting? Also, in thinking about my situation....I may back off on the rear blade setting and leave the front set to dig more. I need to play with it more to figure out the best way to set it up for my tractor. I'm glad I didn't buy any wider disc or more blades....as I originally had considered. This disc will provide all the excavation size I want.....at least in my soils.
    3320 eHydro, 300CX Loader & 15 + great attachments

    You gotta mine allot of dirt to find a diamond.

  6. #16
    Super Star Member Diamondpilot's Avatar
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    Jan 2007
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    15,815
    Location
    Daleville, IN
    Tractor
    Jinma 254/284 Ford 861 Powermaster at work

    Default Re: KK Disc Report

    I guess it has to do with weight and soil conditions. I have a Jinma 254/284. The tractor weighs 3,800# then the loader is another 800# plus I have loaded rears for a total weight of 5,200# and it has pulled my 6' Ford Disc no problem along with my King Kutter 2 Bottom Plow. I have also used my neighbors 11', I believe, no 3 point draw bar pull disc.

    These are not my tractor but just like it minus the FEL and he does not have the rears filled. He is a guy on another site I am on and he posted some vids of him doing some plowing and disc work with his Jinma 28 Hp 4x4 tractor. He is pulling a old 2 bottom plow then a 12' disc with ease.

    YouTube - Jinma 284 Doing Fall Plowing

    YouTube - Jinma 284 and 12 Foot Disk Harrow

    Chris

  7. #17
    Elite Member foggy1111's Avatar
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    Nisswa, MN
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    JD 3320 eHydro w/ 300CX Loader

    Default Re: KK Disc Report

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondpilot View Post
    I guess it has to do with weight and soil conditions. I have a Jinma 254/284. The tractor weighs 3,800# then the loader is another 800# plus I have loaded rears for a total weight of 5,200# and it has pulled my 6' Ford Disc no problem along with my King Kutter 2 Bottom Plow. I have also used my neighbors 11', I believe, no 3 point draw bar pull disc.

    These are not my tractor but just like it minus the FEL and he does not have the rears filled. He is a guy on another site I am on and he posted some vids of him doing some plowing and disc work with his Jinma 28 Hp 4x4 tractor. He is pulling a old 2 bottom plow then a 12' disc with ease.

    YouTube - Jinma 284 Doing Fall Plowing

    YouTube - Jinma 284 and 12 Foot Disk Harrow

    Chris
    There is a substantial difference in how this Jinma is "pulling a disc" and what I am trying to accomplish. I likely could pull that disc across a field like that Jinma is doing too....it looks more like my cultipacker than a disc the way he's using it. He is just breaking up clumps and the gangs are not set very aggressive and the discs are not penetrating very deep. There is no weight on that disc and in viewing the video...he is not moving much soil.

    What I am trying to do is more of a primary tillage task. When I am operating the King Kutter with an aggressive settting the blades are digging about 5" into the soils....almost up to the hubs.....and doing some tillage....and doing it though sod in sandy soils....much different scenario IMHO.
    Last edited by foggy1111; 05-17-2009 at 11:25 AM.
    3320 eHydro, 300CX Loader & 15 + great attachments

    You gotta mine allot of dirt to find a diamond.

  8. #18
    Elite Member wushaw's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    3,075
    Location
    Bristol Texas
    Tractor
    Kubota L2800, 15 hp 372 Mitsubishi

    Default Re: KK Disc Report

    It can be interesting pulling it, The disk weighs 630lbs and is 5', I had to rework it after that initial built and it is Ford blue now. It pulls it and does the job.
    Adjusting the gangs is easy with the pins, I made sure things had good cleareances for movment.
    Kubota L2800HST, Mitsubishi 372, bh75, 45" Agric tiller, 5' home made disk, 42" Bush hog, PHD, 66" Cammond BB.

  9. #19
    Elite Member foggy1111's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    2,512
    Location
    Nisswa, MN
    Tractor
    JD 3320 eHydro w/ 300CX Loader

    Default Re: KK Disc Report

    Today I pulled the KK 5.5' disc again. I removed the log I had for weight and reduced the angle of the cut by one notch. This seems to be the combination for me and my tractor...and my soils. I was able to cut almost to the disc's hubs on the first pass and I did not bog down on subsequent passes. I think I was needlessly heavy and set a bit too aggressively on the previous outing. It seemed to work pretty nice all day with this setting......not too agressive and not too whimpy. I was able to till some rocky ground and get about 1.5 acres ready for planting. I think I will leave the disc set up as it is. Changing the angle of the disc gangs took a couple of crecent wrenches....the use of a hammer and...in a few minutes it was good to go.

    I still like the my tiller as my first choice....and would select it first.....if not for the rocks and stumps I am operating around in this situation. I think the disc takes a litte longer than the tiller....but with the trashy ground I am currently working....the disc seems to be the answer.

    Today we also put down a couple of tons of lime and incorperated the lime into the soil with the disc. Also opened up a new trail and smoothed it out with the disc.....followed by my wife with the four wheeler and a flexible drag. Pretty slick. I think I have the hardest working wife the world has ever known (and she's just a little bitty thing)....what a girl.
    3320 eHydro, 300CX Loader & 15 + great attachments

    You gotta mine allot of dirt to find a diamond.

  10. #20
    Platinum Member
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    965

    Default Re: KK Disc Report

    You probably would be better not using as much weight or no weight and just making more passes,disking down to where you want,takes many passes,its a disk,not a plow or rototiller.

    Plus you got to maybe adjust it so's its not as agressive,gotta work with the tools you have,or buy new tools.

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