Carryalls

   / Carryalls #21  
Gordon,

I like your set-up. I'm thinking of making sides and a back out of 2 x 4s like you did, with cross pieces like the sides of a stake body truck. They could be pinned together at the corners to make it more rigid.

What does the underside of it look like, where the 2 x 4s go down through the floor?
 
   / Carryalls #22  
Gordon,

What does the underside of it look like, where the 2 x 4s go down through the floor?

Welcome to TBN coss.
I used a piece of 2X2X1/4 angle I had to make the edge 3 1/2". Then bolted and lagged 2X4's to make a rim with pockets. It seemed a little clunky as I was making it but it works good and is plenty strong. I cut a piece to short so I mitered the corners as a cover-up to avoid criticism :D
 

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   / Carryalls #23  
I use this carryall from Tractor supply: View attachment 345435 View attachment 345436

Just this last week I ordered a hydraulic toplink for it. I drilled holes and put 3 pt pins at the bottom of the uprights. I can lift it high enough so that it can dump now. I plan to side it with some 3/4 plywood I have, and line that with tin flashing. I'll use it as a winter wheelbarrow- horse manure- so that I can leave my snowplow attached to the bucket all winter.
I've had the idea for some time- finally acting on it.
 
   / Carryalls #24  
I also use the TSC carryall. This wood hauler is kept on with two pins that way I can still use the carryall for other chores. The two white scabbards are for my 14" and 18" chainsaws.
 

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   / Carryalls #25  
Gordon and GB,

You guys have talent.

Thanks the ideas.

Coss
 
   / Carryalls #26  
I put this together this weekend. The hydraulic top cylinder has an 11" stroke to it- 18" would have been ideal, but I got tired of looking online. I made the difference up with a couple of pieces of flat stock which I drilled out. I'll get some new pins and work out some spacers still. The carryall will have sides and a front of 3/4" plywood. I'll use some inside angle iron for reinforcement probably. I'll use wide tin or aluminum flashing on the wood. This will be for horse manure in the winter, and I want it to slide off easily. Manure will freeze to wood.
View attachment 346363View attachment 346364

Just looking at the pics- I had the thought that if I put a horizontal bar through the two holes above the old side pins, I might be able to attach the top link (minus the brackets) to the horizontal bar. That might give me a better dump angle. I have to look into it.
 
   / Carryalls #27  
That looks like a nifty addition. With winter coming on, local stores might stock those flat, polyethylene snow sliders for kids. I think a couple of those affixed to the carryall deck might let the manure slide off better than aluminum flashing. I bought several a couple of years ago, intending to line the chute of my snowblower...but I developed a bad case of procrastination and haven't gotten around to it yet.
Similar to these: Buy a Turbo Sheet Roll-up Sled for $5.99

Bob
 
   / Carryalls #28  
I built this one last week out of some poplar 2" boards I had. The TSC frame was $129. Coated it with some deck water sealer.

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   / Carryalls #29  
Here is mine in action. I cut up a few tree tops that came down last winter and hauled them over to be split and stacked for next year or the year after.
 

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   / Carryalls #30  
PC310283.jpgPC310284.jpgPC310287.jpgPC310289.jpg

Here's mine. I welded the frame from old bed frame and made the box from PT 2X6's. I built it to carry extra fuel cans, chains, cooler, hot beverages when I'm moving snow. Haven't gotten any snow yet but I moved a blown tire to my other garage/shop to install a tube. Works great for what I need. I use my FEL for moving firewood and such. All together cost me about $50.
 
 
 
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