Yanmar 1500 Tiller Question

[Momboy007]

Hello All,
My 1500 Yanmar Tiller, Model RSB, now needs new tines, I called a Vendor here on the board and he has asked me if they are 10mm or 12mm holes in the tines. Anyone here have any idea? I have no way of measuring these

Thank you all in advance for any info you can share

Rick

[larso1]

Originally Posted by Momboy007

Hello All,
My 1500 Yanmar Tiller, Model RSB, now needs new tines, I called a Vendor here on the board and he has asked me if they are 10mm or 12mm holes in the tines. Anyone here have any idea? I have no way of measuring these

Thank you all in advance for any info you can share

Rick

I'm wondering why you can't measure them. On my tiller the end of the bolt sticks out past the nut and you could roughly measure the OD of the bolt that way. 12mm is of course just a hair under 1/2-in. and 10mm is just a little larger than 3/8-in. You could probably buy a couple metric nuts at the local hardware and partially thread them onto the end of the exposed bolt, unless yours is a lot different than my 1200 Yanmar tiller.

[Momboy007]

Hello All again,
I took your advice and found they were 10MM, now when I try to take the nut loose, the bolt head tries to turn inside its holder, like it is stript, help Please. Please recall the bolt head is flush mounted and is not supposed to turn, however, it does???
Thanks in advance for any help
Rick

[MJPetersen]

Originally Posted by Momboy007

Hello All again,
I took your advice and found they were 10MM, now when I try to take the nut loose, the bolt head tries to turn inside its holder, like it is stript, help Please. Please recall the bolt head is flush mounted and is not supposed to turn, however, it does???
Rick

It is recessed in a hexagonal hole and the 12 mm bolt head fit tightly. Just turn the bolt until the flat is parallel to the flat of the hole, insert the tip of a flat screwdriver in the gap and loosen the nut normally.

Mike

[California]

That is the elegant way to do it right.

I wonder if you could weld the edge of each slipping bolt head to its tine. Then a 6 point socket on each nut would unscrew it or else snap the bolt.

If you can't tell, I've always wanted to try the maximum setting on my old 230AC welder!

Please post pictures showing what works.

[Momboy007]

I will try both methods and let you know what works, thanks all for your help
Rick

[Iplayfarmer]

Originally Posted by California

That is the elegant way to do it right.

I wonder if you could weld the edge of each slipping bolt head to its tine. Then a 6 point socket on each nut would unscrew it or else snap the bolt.

If you can't tell, I've always wanted to try the maximum setting on my old 230AC welder!

Please post pictures showing what works.

The screwdriver method is probably the best, but I've done the tack weld thing before. It works.

You might start with some penetrating oil on everything first to help the nuts come off with less force. Both PB Blaster and Marvel Penetrating oil have work for me in the past.

[Momboy007]

Thank You all for your advice, I will use penetrating oil Today and try to break them loose Sunday

Thanks again,
Rick

[California]

Vibration and heat can help draw the penetrating oil in where it is needed. After waiting a while for the oil to soak in give the bolt heads a couple taps with a hammer. Heat - whatever works.

Some of the frequent posters here say heating then applying hot wax, which is drawn into the threads, is effective.