OP
CurlyDave
Elite Member
At post #10 on this thread http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/104710-post-hole-digger-slow.html bindian shows pix of her auger on her backhoe. Is this the thread you meant?
Best Way to Adapt this plate to Skid Steer
- Thread starter CurlyDave
- Start date
At post #10 on this thread http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/104710-post-hole-digger-slow.html bindian shows pix of her auger on her backhoe. Is this the thread you meant?
jenkinsph
Super Star Member
Dave,
Not sure if Bindian's method is using the curl cylinder or not but it certainly looks like a nice setup. Considering the fact you have to fabricate a mount anyway I think something similar is a good choice. I know the bucket curl cylinder is important for a hammer but am not so sure about an auger which should be able to hang plumb to start with.
Do you have the auxillary circuit on your backhoe?
Not sure if Bindian's method is using the curl cylinder or not but it certainly looks like a nice setup. Considering the fact you have to fabricate a mount anyway I think something similar is a good choice. I know the bucket curl cylinder is important for a hammer but am not so sure about an auger which should be able to hang plumb to start with.
Do you have the auxillary circuit on your backhoe?
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
That's not the thread that I was thinking of, but the second pictures show it very clearly. In the thread I'm thinking of, she was talking about it, and I asked her to show a picture. It might have been the same picture, I don't remember for sure. I am going to copy that picture you linked to and keep it my "ideas" folder. I have all sorts of pictures that others have done that I want to do some day, and that's one that I need in there.
If I come across a great deal on a hydralic post hole digger, that's just what I'm going to do. I have a 3 pt unit now, and while it gets the job done, it's lacking in allot of ways. Mostly just lining it up where I want it, and then keeping it going straight down are the two biggest issues. Then I'm limited in how deep I can go because of how high I can get my 3pt lift. 3 ft is about my maximum depth, and while that's proven to be enough, I still want that option of going deeper.
I think that with Brandi's method, you will have the ultimate setup that will allow you to get the auger exactly where you want it, and also to keep it perfectly straight. Being hydraulic, you can also back it out of a hole, as opposed to a 3pt, where you have to get a pipe wrench to unscrew the auger if it gets in too deep, too fast.
Of course, with the setup that you bought, it's either as simple as fitting it on the pin, or making an adapter, and then running some hoses. If the bucket curl is removed and the hose gets a quick attack to the cylinder, you should be able to remove those hoses from the cylinder and control the auger with those hoses. Maybe even put a valve on the hose to divert the hydrualic oil from the cylinder to the hoses running to the auger. At least that's my idea. I don't know if it's doable or not. LOL
Eddie
OP
CurlyDave
Elite Member
I do have the auxiliary hydraulics on the backhoe. Right now it is used to power the hydraulic thumb.
Here are some more pix of the attachment side of the mounting plate.
Looking at this, I don't see any reason I can't set this up for a dual mount system. For something quick & dirty, I can get another skid steer plate and either weld it to the arm side of the existing plate, or have the welder fabricate an attachment mount similar to the existing one, whichever is less costly.
The pin right above the cat's head is 1 3/8" diameter, and is easily removable. The pins on the backhoe near the bucket are 1 3/8" diameter also, but none are good candidates for hanging the auger, because nothing will fit the auger bracket properly.
The backhoe bucket has the proprietary JD quick attach system rather than being a pin on system, which would have made things a lot easier.
I do have a 12" bucket which I do not use since it is incompatible with the hydraulic thumb, but it might turn out that I can somehow modify it to use as a bracket to accept the auger unit. Something to think about.
I do agree that having the auger mounted on the backhoe would be better than on the loader. It looks like that is going to involve a more expensive bracket.
Here are some more pix of the attachment side of the mounting plate.
Looking at this, I don't see any reason I can't set this up for a dual mount system. For something quick & dirty, I can get another skid steer plate and either weld it to the arm side of the existing plate, or have the welder fabricate an attachment mount similar to the existing one, whichever is less costly.
The pin right above the cat's head is 1 3/8" diameter, and is easily removable. The pins on the backhoe near the bucket are 1 3/8" diameter also, but none are good candidates for hanging the auger, because nothing will fit the auger bracket properly.
The backhoe bucket has the proprietary JD quick attach system rather than being a pin on system, which would have made things a lot easier.
I do have a 12" bucket which I do not use since it is incompatible with the hydraulic thumb, but it might turn out that I can somehow modify it to use as a bracket to accept the auger unit. Something to think about.
I do agree that having the auger mounted on the backhoe would be better than on the loader. It looks like that is going to involve a more expensive bracket.
Attachments
jenkinsph
Super Star Member
If you are not set up for welding yet you have the quick coupler set for the hoe buckets then atleast take the auger head and spare bucket to a good welder and have him price making the auger head fit the coupler. The cost may not be any more than buying and building the skidsteer mounting.
I have the pin on style right now and am switching over to the quick coupler as soon as it arrives. I was hoping to be able to convert my existing pin on bucket to a quick coupler type but will have to wait and compare all of this.
Obviously I wish I had started out with the quick coupler, just did not see this coming.
I have the pin on style right now and am switching over to the quick coupler as soon as it arrives. I was hoping to be able to convert my existing pin on bucket to a quick coupler type but will have to wait and compare all of this.
Obviously I wish I had started out with the quick coupler, just did not see this coming.
JohninCT
Platinum Member
You could disconnect the existing QA mount at the first pin. Then get yourself a piece of square tube sized to fit between the ears of the bracket where you removed the pin. Drill the tube to accept a bushing and the pin. Bolt the tube to the bottom of the bucket and attach your backhoe hyd auxiliary circuit.
This option uses no welding and uses your existing 12" BH bucket (and its QA) without totally destroying it.
This option uses no welding and uses your existing 12" BH bucket (and its QA) without totally destroying it.
Attachments
jmc
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2003
- Messages
- 2,967
- Location
- SW Indiana
- Tractor
- Ford 1920 4x4 (traded in on Kubota). Case 480F TLB w/4 in 1 bucket, 4x4. Gehl CTL60 tracked loader, Kubota L4330 GST
Dave,
As far as buying a skidsteer mount off Ebay, consider my experience: I was making a hydraulic stump puller and bought one of the full width, 1/4 thick adapters from ebay for about $100 plus freight. The adapter's top angled lip was a separate welded-on piece about 3/8 thick, full width. Well, I mounted my hardware to this adapter and eventually damaged that top angled lip on the adapter because it was not attached to the main adapter plate too well. In retrospect, it was attached well enough for its intended purpose, it just that the adapter plate was not intended to be the main structural component. It was designed to be ATTACHED to a main structural component (like a bucket) and then reinforcement added to support that lip and whatever else the weak links turn out to be for any given application. So if you go that route, keep in mind how you are goint to beef up a structure effectively hanging out in space.
You've got some work to do no matter which end of your 110 you hang this on, and either way, its going to be a nice setup. But if you consider the above about needing more than an adapter plate for the front, mounting it on the hoe may not be too much more trouble. (haven't any independents started supplying QA plates for backhoes?) You'll be able to see a lot better and be able to move the auger laterally without moving the tractor.
John
As far as buying a skidsteer mount off Ebay, consider my experience: I was making a hydraulic stump puller and bought one of the full width, 1/4 thick adapters from ebay for about $100 plus freight. The adapter's top angled lip was a separate welded-on piece about 3/8 thick, full width. Well, I mounted my hardware to this adapter and eventually damaged that top angled lip on the adapter because it was not attached to the main adapter plate too well. In retrospect, it was attached well enough for its intended purpose, it just that the adapter plate was not intended to be the main structural component. It was designed to be ATTACHED to a main structural component (like a bucket) and then reinforcement added to support that lip and whatever else the weak links turn out to be for any given application. So if you go that route, keep in mind how you are goint to beef up a structure effectively hanging out in space.
You've got some work to do no matter which end of your 110 you hang this on, and either way, its going to be a nice setup. But if you consider the above about needing more than an adapter plate for the front, mounting it on the hoe may not be too much more trouble. (haven't any independents started supplying QA plates for backhoes?) You'll be able to see a lot better and be able to move the auger laterally without moving the tractor.
John
some zilch
Gold Member
- Joined
- Sep 19, 2008
- Messages
- 468
the mount you have is for a bobcat "MT" series machine; the walk-behind skid steers. you can readily buy a fullsize plate with the correct "head" that your auger will go right onto
J_J
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2003
- Messages
- 18,928
- Location
- JACKSONVILLE, FL
- Tractor
- Power-Trac 1445, KUBOTA B-9200HST
CurlyDave,
A motor displacement of 38 cu in, and 3000 psi will produce about 1500 ft lbs. The rpm of the motor will be around 91 rpm with 15 GPM supply. If you have 10 GPM the rpm will be 61.
How will you control the speed of the motor? Do you have a motor spool valve ?
A motor displacement of 38 cu in, and 3000 psi will produce about 1500 ft lbs. The rpm of the motor will be around 91 rpm with 15 GPM supply. If you have 10 GPM the rpm will be 61.
How will you control the speed of the motor? Do you have a motor spool valve ?