Rear Blade Why doesn't my rear blade cut?

[dcyrilc]

I have a used JD 65 (8ft) rear blade which I have only tried to use a couple of times in the few months I've had it. As I have been reading various threads, I have seen rear blades which will roll a full blade of material while being used. Mine pretty much just slides over the surface taking any small humps off and has never got more than three to four inches of material built up in front of the blade.

Here are my questions:
1) How much does a JD 65 blade weigh and how much does weight affect the ability of the blade to cut?

2) My cutting edge is rusty from sitting outside before I got it. Can the cutting edge become dull from this? Would it be advisable to replace the cutting edge with a new one?

3) The few times I have used the blade, I have had it in what I would consider a neutral position (the mounting arm between the 3PH and the blade level). Should I need to extend the top link and roll the blade back increasing the angle of attack on the blade for it to cut well? Would that be considered normal?

TIA for any feedback.

 

[jenkinsph]

Adjusting the top link will make a big difference, depending on the angle of set you can pull material back in a trench without much damage to grass or put some set in the blade and cut deeper.

FYI I think the Deere 65 blade has a reverseable cutting edge, if you bought this used and the blade is worn enough you should be able to turn it around and have a new surface. Check to see if the top edge is worn too before doing this.

 

[nspec]

Adjust the top link. Shorten link to roll blade forward and take a bigger bite. Lengthen top link to roll blade back and take less of a bite. In otherwords, the shorter the top link, the more aggressive the cut. Longer the top link, less aggressive the cut. You'll see a big difference.

 

[MMagis]

Adjust the top link. Shorten link to roll blade forward and take a bigger bite. Lengthen top link to roll blade back and take less of a bite. In otherwords, the shorter the top link, the more aggressive the cut. Longer the top link, less aggressive the cut. You'll see a big difference.

You sure about that? Mine is the opposite unless I have the blade tured backwards.

 

[dex3361]

You sure about that? Mine is the opposite unless I have the blade tured backwards.

I have to agree with you. If I make my top link longer it angle the blade back and plows it into the ground. If I make the link shorter it allows the blade to smooth the area with less cutting.

 

[KWentling]

Lengthening the top link will make it more aggressive. The more you angle the blade the more material you can move. Once you get the blade to scour it will work better and you can angle it less and still move material. You may need to take a shovel and clean the dirt off the blade several times until it cleans itself. I doubt you're cutting edge is causing a problem. I been maintaining about 3/4 miles of gravel road with mine for 9 years and it has very little wear. They actually sharpen themselves. You just want to change them before you start wearing into the moldboard. Some blades have adjustable shoes to limit the cut or to hold the blade up for clearing snow off gravel or rock. If you have those make sure thats not limiting the cut.

Kim

 

[kennyd]

You sure about that? Mine is the opposite unless I have the blade tured backwards.

I have to agree with you. If I make my top link longer it angle the blade back and plows it into the ground. If I make the link shorter it allows the blade to smooth the area with less cutting.

You guys are correct, nspec got it backwards...

 

[gordyy]

nspec might just have a box blade yout shorten the link to make a BB more aggresive and lenthen to make it less aggresive

 

[sweettractors]

Some extra added weight to the blade will do wonders. Also. as mentioned above, reversing the cutting blade could be a step in the right direction. Ken Sweet

 

[nspec]

My bad guys. You'all are right - I had it backwards. That's what happens when you sit at your desk and write about your tractor!