Hesston 530 Baler info needed...

[MotorSeven]

I bought a used 530 in decent shape. I just finished baleling 21 ac & I have a few minor issues with it. I will not cut the string after wrapping and the pick-up gets clogged every now and then. It is missing some of the "fingers" that spin to grab the hay off the ground so that is most likely the reason for the clogging.
Anyway, I have searched & googled myself nuts looking for an owners manual & cannot find one anywhere. Anyone have any ideas of where to find a manual and or a parts list?

RD

 

[wrangler6831]

As for the string not cutting you need to replace the knife that cuts it pretty much every year. We tried sharpening ours and it never would cut like a new one. The clogging could be several thing. How are the belts? If they are smooth then you may need new or is it possible the you got into a little wet hay. These are both common problems for clogging. On ours if you get a good roll started then the rest would go great. It usually clogged when we first started after dumping a bale. Good luck.

 

[MotorSeven]

Ok, I'll pick up a new knife. Yes the clogging was always when first starting a bale & once I could get it to start there were no problems. The hay was dry. I had the pick-up too low at first and it was throwing clods of dirt up onto the tractor. Once I raised it back up the clogging dropped 70%.
One more thing, how many "Mississippi's" do I count when stopping the string on the indicator's black marks? I've been doing "5", then "4", then "4" & "5" again before dumping the bale.

RD

 

[BeeferMan]

I have a Case 8420, that's the Hesston 530 sold under the Case name. Look for parts and a manual for that, might be a little easier to find. Such as:

Case IH 8420 Round Baler Operator's Manual - eBay (item 160437641122 end time Jun-22-10 08:40:21 PDT)

I had exactly the same trouble with mine cutting the string until I did a little re-engineering - I'm assuming that you have the older manual twine arm model?. I found the problem was the twine just wasn't on the "table" (the part the sharpened knife blade meets) when the knife closed down, it had been pulled off the outside edge by the arm. So it didn't matter how sharp the knife was - it wasn't touching the twine! So what I did was to drill a hole in the "table" and put a small threaded pin sticking up with a bit of a hook pointed towards the inside. It had to be low enough that that the twine arm cleared, but high enough that it caught the twine as the arm returned to the parked position. That keeps the twine right where the knife will hit it. With that small fix I went from about a 10% cut rate to darn near 100%. If that's not clear, let me know and I'll try to get a picture and post it.

Starting the bale has always been another issue with that baler. I've found that the first bale of the day almost never starts, and I've got no secret formula for that - just watch it closely so that if it doesn't start you don't have too big a clog to clean out.

Another hint - don't be stingy with the twine, I've found the more twine the better the bales come out. 8-10 seconds at each end of the arm stops works for me.

Works best with long hay - first cutting it works great, ok with second, third is a chore, fourth - forget it!

The only other complaint I have with the baler is the pickup is just too narrow!

Good luck!

 

[MotorSeven]

Beef, yes I have noticed the twine off the cutter on the outboard side. I looked for some type of guide that I may have missed but there ain't one. A mod like you described sounds like what I need to do. Headed to fleabay now.......thanks for the info!

RD

 

[GreenWannabe]

Anyone have any ideas of where to find a manual and or a parts list?

RD

Parts List is available online at AGCO Parts Books. Click on View Books next to Guest User. These are the same parts books the dealer uses now.

Manuals can be purchased at Choose Items online 24/7 or from any Agco/Massey/Challenger dealer.

 

[sweettractors]

Real dry hay will prevent a good start on a belt roller about as bad as damp hay. I always watch very closely when first starting a bale (keep my foot on the clutch) and I start in the center of the pickup and don't move left or right until the bale is turning good in the chamber. Ken Sweet

 

[BeeferMan]

Just got in from baling with the 8420, baled about 75 bales over that past couple days, 100% success rate with the twine cutter.

Here's a couple pictures of my modification. The twine arm swings just to the inside of the hook, you can see where the twine has buffed off the paint from the hook. The hook holds the twine on the "block" so when the knife (first picture, in the up position) drops, the twine is right there waiting for it...

 

[BeeferMan]

Real dry hay will prevent a good start on a belt roller about as bad as damp hay. I always watch very closely when first starting a bale (keep my foot on the clutch) and I start in the center of the pickup and don't move left or right until the bale is turning good in the chamber. Ken Sweet

My experience with my baler is when starting a bale you need to feed hay in evenly across the pickup until the bale starts spinning. If you get too much hay in the slot that feeds the chamber, the belts can't pull it in, and you're toast - nothing to do but open it up and clear it out. The required techniques that Ken and myself relate is indicative of this - with these balers you don't just steer the tractor and daydream, you *make* the bale. When running the round baler (admittedly it's an old one!) you need to pay attention to what you're doing! After that, running the square balers is like a day off - just keep the pickup on the hay and don't run into anything.

I will say that once the bale starts spinning then it's just about impossible to plug it up, it'll swallow just about anything...

 

[MotorSeven]

Thank y'all very much for all the info. I just got that Case manual off of fleabay. It shows a "Twine Guide" which is similar to yours Beef, but it's after the cutter. It looks like mine is broken off & I like yours better, so I am going to do the "Beefmod" to mine.
I am wondering why in the heck a IPL is not included in the manual. It would only take up a page or two. Green, I am having trouble viewing the diagrams on the Agco website but thanks for the link.
Anyway I guess it's a keeper, so I am off to town to pay for the machine.

My dealer is fantastic, said. "take it & try it....don't like it or it doen't work, just bring it back" :thumbsup:.

RD