Attaching a rototiller

[WVBill]

I'm a newbie so I need help.
I switched from my rototiller to my box blade and back to the rototiller on my Kubota B6100D once so far - and spent a week nursing my back afterwards.

The PTO shaft on the rototiller has a spline that attaches to the spline on the tractor PTO, then a flexible joint, a "slip spline", another flexible joint and then the tiller gear box.

Taking the rtiller off was easy. I pulled the pin on the top link out and the tiller rotated back away from the tractor on the tiller tine shaft. This action pulled the slip spline apart. I then pulled the pins on the bottom links and was free of the tractor. Since I have no other PTO equipment and was just going to use the box blade I left the "front half" of the Tiller's PTO shaft attached to the tractor.

Putting the tiller back on was another story. Getting the bottom links back on was no problem. But then I had to rotate the tiller shaft and top link forward, align both of them and insert the pin to hold the top link in place all at the same time - while being safety conscious and staying out from between the implement and the tractor.

The tiller came with no operator's manual - but from what I've seen of Kubota operator's manuals it wouldn't have helped much.

What did I do wrong? Can anyone describe the correct process / sequence for attaching and removing a 3PH rototiller?

Thanks.

Bill

 

[Anderson]

I have a 4' howard rototiller that I believe acts the same way - it rolls back on the tines and rounded sides when the top link is disconnected. The second time I took off the tiller (I did what you did the first time) I set a block of firewood under the front and back of each side - the cradle fixes the tillers position so it doesn't move when the top link, and lower arms are removed.

 

[RickM]

WVBill,
Each PTO driven implement should have its own driveshaft for the device. It's the '4th' point if you will. You should disconnect the pto driveline on the tractor side first each time. It is dangerous to have a separted driveshaft because the universal joint will let it swing wildly around and round.

 

[WVBill]

Ah-ha..

Rick just lit the light bulb. "Disconnect the pto driveline on the tractor side first..."

And, I presume, hook it up last(?). This way I wouldn't have to be trying to align the drive line and the top link at the same time.

duh - why didn't I think of that.

Thanks, guys!

Bill

 

[W5FL]

Yep, you got it now. I use a short 4x4 under each skid when I set it down, disconnect the pto shaft from the tractor, then the top link, then the bottom links and drive away. Just in case your tiller has a slip clutch, search the board on slip clutch maintenance which needs to be done about every 6 months. The other very important maintenance with a tiller is to check the gear box fluid and check the tightness of all bolts, especially those holding the tiller tines.

 

[Bird]

I was wondering whether WVBill's tiller has rounded skids instead of being flat and straight on the bottom. Since I usually keep my skids set for the deepest tilling, that means the tines extend down below the skids, so I, too, have 4x4s that I place under the skids on each side. My tiller also has a little "parking stand" that attaches with a pin on the left side to keep it from rolling forward onto its face when disconnected, so I put a 3" block under it to keep everything fairly level and easy to hook up next time.

Bird

 

[WVBill]

The skids are rounded but there are side plates that are flat. I have some 6 X 6 pieces so I'll see if the side plates will support the weight or cut a rounded dip in the 6 X 6's to match the skids. No "parking stand" on mine.

Thanks for the ideas.

Bill

 

[Anonymous Poster]

BILL, I DON'T KNOW THE SIZE OF YOUR TILLER. I HAVE AN 80" ONE. BEFORE I UNHOOK IT, I BLOCK IT UP SO ONE SIDE DOES NOT DROP LOWER THAN THE OTHER. WHEN I HOOK BACK UP I DO NOT HAVE TO LIFT ONE SIDE UP. YOU WILL MAKE THE PTO HOOKUP EASIER IN THE FUTURE IF YOU KEEP IT WELL OILED/GREASED.

 

[Jeff_In_NC]

I don't know about yours by my 60" Howard has a stand...works great...It sits level and is a breeze to attach. If it doesn't have one I'd uggest making one.
In regards to attaching other heavy 3pt implements the best way I have found is to use the loader. Back up as centered and as square as possible to the implement. Dump the bucket almost all the way. Put the edge of the bucket on the ground with the tractor in neutral. Connect the lower link on one side. Use the loader bucket to mover the tractor "that little bit" forward or back required to connect the other side. Then connect the top link and PTO shaft (if required) raise it up and tighten the check chains....Takes all of 5 min to drop one thing and connect another.
jeff_in_nc