Major Driveway Project, Opinions Please

[dnels0n]

Hello everyone, this is my first post here. I have been reading a good bit, but I think I am getting more confused than educated.

I live in central Alabama and I have a 2000 ft driveway that has not been worked(other than by hand) for at least 12 years. Most of it has no crown, and it would be washed a lot worse than it is, but it runs over a bed of shale that is tilted at about a 75 degree angle. Some of the driveway has had gravel added(not much) and some areas had good dirt added but I will still need some dirt and probably 3 loads of gravel. Doesn't that all sound like fun?

I have a Kubota B3300SU that I am just breaking in, and I am trying to decide what I need to attack the driveway. Tractor width is ~58 inches so I was thinking maybe a 60 inch box or rear grader or both. Any advice/recommendations/volunteers to help greatly appreciated.:laughing:

Thanks,

Don Nelson

PS Here is a picture of the driveway at the bottom of the yard, this is easily the best part of the driveway.
http://www.pbase.com/rockycreekimages/image/85608933/large

 

[brin]

Don, Really nice looking road and setting. The road to my farm is very similiar . I know you said that is the best looking part of the road but unless you have some places in your road that hold water I would not think you would need to add any more good dirt ( clay )

I would get a good box blade with scarificiers , pivot and tilt and that should be all you need. I use crusher run gravel on mine and order it soupy ( really wet ) and they spread it out of the tailgate of the dump truck..then I use my box blade and spread it and form the crown. It packs like concrete and lasts a long time. Good Luck..

 

[beenthere]

Yes, it sounds like fun.

Along with brin, I too wouldn't add dirt to a drive. Just gravel to build it up and keep a solid base.
Getting the crown in the roadbed for water runoff control is important.
A rear grader blade with height adjusting wheels would be great. Could get by with a box blade too, but they don't angle for making crown and such.

Having a gravel drive is great for good tractor time. Whenever the urge, it is there to 'work' on and get seat time, whether it needs it or not.
Work on it when it is wet, and drive on it to pack it down well before it dries out. Then it stays put longer.

 

[/pine]

Crowns only work if the shoulders allow for the water to run off the road bed...

in many cases gravel will migrate to the sides (shoulders) forming humps that prevent the water to run off the surface...

The road/drive I maintain is very similar but it's more hilly and no shale...but I have found that pitching the road to one side or the other (with a ditch on the low side) is easier to keep up than when the road is pitched in both directions from the midle (crown)...

 

[CharlieS]

it looks like you've got some shallow wheel ruts to contend with. otherwise what appears to be ok drainage off the road. After you spray/work the grass out of the the driveway I'd say have several loads of good old southern red clay gravel brought in, blade it with a grader blade tilted a little to give a bit of crown and let it pack solid.
If needed, maybe find a water trailer and dampen it good and drive on it til its packed well.
The gravel you mention looks like driveway chad, if you like that look, and need the extra rock, haul in what you need in "dirty chad" which isnt washed clean. The dust off of it will settle into the road and eventually become like concrete.

At least thats what works up here in Arkansas.

 

[TripleR]

I have a 7' back blade as well as 10' wheeled scraper, but use my 7' Land Pride box scraper more than anything. I don't crown my roads as with my terrain I have seen no real need though I am not saying it won't work for others.

On a couple of my steeper roads, I have used washed 2" crushed rock as it does not migrate and locks together really well and little to no maintenance is needed.

 

[dnels0n]

Thanks to everyone who replied, I am somewhat reassured I am on the right track. Since I read of someone else bemoaning forgetting to take before pictures, I thought today would be a good time to do that.
I made a small gallery of them on PBase. It can be viewed at

Driveway shots before work Photo Gallery by Don Nelson at pbase.com.

I am leaning toward the kingkutter 60 inch box blade. I may them make a drag of some sort to help smooth things out.

Thanks for any replies,

Don Nelson

 

[/pine]

judging from the pictures your road is not in bad shape...

I would use the evidence from storm run-off to dictate where and what needs to be addressed..

From what I see...the box blade and a loa or two of crusher run is all that is required...

regardless of the implement (box blade, scraper, planer etc...) none of them will be effective where there is solid rock protruding to the driving surface...

Chances are...if you scarify the main areas that need addressing...you will find there is more gravel ther than you think...it may take a rain or two to expose it...

good luck...have fun...

 

[gwjd]

well it that is 12 years with no real work that is a good base and sounds like a good plan im a little skeptical on the adding dirt but if that is what is done locally it sounds good

 

[beenthere]

Thanks for the pics.
Looks like some ditching along the sides, some crown in most places to build up the center for side run-off to the ditches, a couple of culverts to get the water across the road, and just let the water cross the shale if that isn't a problem.
Have fun with it.