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  1. #11
    Bronze Member john4153's Avatar
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    Case DX40

    Default Re: Two specific questions on a Caroni TM1900 flail mower

    Both the FSC and BSC were mentioned. Which did you end up getting? Why?

    John

  2. #12
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    MichiganIron's Avatar
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    Full line of KIOTI Tractors, BEFCO and Worksaver Implements

    Default Re: Two specific questions on a Caroni TM1900 flail mower

    The manual may be mis-leading. The length of PTO Shaft should be properly set for the tractor to assure there is proper minimum overlap at full extension, and does not bind during it's full travel distance. A binding shaft can do considerable damage to the implement and/or the tractor. There is a procedure for determining the length of the shaft and how to properly cut the shaft. If it isn't in your manual, send us a message or give me a call. We can go through it with you.
    Michigan Iron and Equipment, LLC
    www.michironandequip.com

  3. #13
    Elite Member
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    NE USA
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    JD LA115, WH 244, WH 525 hydro-pops,Original Troy Built Horse 8 HP

    Default Re: Two specific questions on a Caroni TM1900 flail mower

    Caroni mower


    Quote Originally Posted by Z-Michigan View Post
    Well I bought the Caroni TM1900 and it arrived today. Many thanks Leonz for all the info, and many thanks unclesalty for saving me money on shipping.

    I put it together, checked various things, and did a bit of mowing. So far it's great. I still need to adjust height (roller and skids) to a higher setting, which looks like a bit of a project. As I posted in another thread, the quality seems very good, in line with expectations.

    Higher as in higher grass mowing height? the skids are a second line of defense for the grass knives and rotor
    and allow ito to rest relatively level when parked and disconnected.

    The poorly-translated owner's manual is almost laughably bad. I'm thankful for all the helpful posts on here (Leonz and IslandTractor seem to be the most prolific on the Caroni) which are very helpful and clarify many things that the manual doesn't. I think we should almost consider writing a collaborate owner's manual or at least supplement given how little is said in the printed manual provided.

    Buy an italian to english pocket dictionary and you will be fine-remember the english language is the most difficult to learn and translate in most languages.


    I do have a few more questions for anyone familiar:

    1) Is there a trick to removing the belt cover? The bolts holding it in place seem incredibly tight, making me wonder if they aren't intended to be removed and something else allows access.
    there are bearings with grease filttings under the belt cover

    FYI-they mention the distance between the three point mount and the gearbox stub shaft for one reason its also
    designed to be front mounted on a tractor with a reduction gearbox up front or a propeller shaft under the tractor coming from the rear 540 PTO with a one to one to one spure gear box off the rear to the propeller shaft under the mower for mowing which uses another universal joint upo front to meet the gearbox stub shaft or is driven off the flywheel of the engine with a separate reduction gearing.




    Please Please Please Please tell me you greased the mower main bearings before you used it


    abou the belt cover:
    It was probably impacted on- use only a 3/8 breaker bar and metric socket to remove the cover-you should have plenty of clearance for a socket with out an extension.

    You have grease fittings under the belt cover that need grease occasionally so thats a must do thing- eventually you could buy a few metric grade five allen bolts with the drilled heads for mechanics wire and allen lock washers for mechanics wire wire to secure the bolts together to avoid them becoming loose if you like.

    a set of metric ratchet wrenches will become your friend especially when changing knives as it is time consuming with those hangers.



    2) What is the preference between using the circular hole for the toplink or using the channel area that allows it to move around a bit?

    the slot lets it fall back a bit and reduces gouging and scalping to a minimum
    as the mower should tilt back towards the roller a bit while mowing (unless you have a flail mower with a full width anti scalp roller in front which some manufacturers off as an option for turf

    3) Is the drain plug for the gearbox oil the large bolt that's low and centered on the side opposite the output shaft (the one that goes from gearbox to belts), or is it somewhere else?

    the mower manual should point that out directly in the diagrams or you can call agris supply on sunday/monday- one of TM1900 owners on the board here will know fro sure and post it for you.

    You will have a bubbling oil issue and may want the longer dip stick option
    or do what Island tractor did with his gear box


    4) The PTO shaft supplied seems to be long for use with a Cat 1 hitch. The owner's manual seems to say that there must be 6" (150mm) of compression available in the shaft, and also says never, ever to shorten the shaft. I seem to have only about 2" of compression available when the mower is at ground level, although more than that when it's raised. I do not see any reason that any significant compression is needed to be available as long as the mower can't any closer to the tractor (lower links would stop that!) and the shaft doesn't bind anywhere in its travel from lowest to highest (travel) settings. Can I just leave the PTO shaft as it is now?


    As long as it is in line and working its fine- and the 2 inches of tube is fine as long as the mower can move up and down safely with no binding- which you would see and hear quickly.

    These mowers are used with much taller tractors used for turf mowing and larger turf tires and thats why they mention it in the manual.

    You would have destroyed the PTO shaft it the minute you started the mower-just be doubly sure the lower links are the same length if you have the right lower link with the crank adjuster.

    time to go to work- whoopsie

  4. #14
    Super Star Member IslandTractor's Avatar
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    2007 Kioti DK40se HST, Woods BH

    Default Re: Two specific questions on a Caroni TM1900 flail mower

    I run a TM1900 with a DK40se so if you need specific measurements on the PTO shaft let me know and I will measure mine. I have had no issues. I did not set it up myself as Rick Wallace did it for me before delivering the tractor so I don't know if they trimmed the PTO shaft or not.

  5. #15
    Bronze Member Bigturk's Avatar
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    Nova Scotia, Canada
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    Kioti DK40se with cab

    Default Re: Two specific questions on a Caroni TM1900 flail mower

    Hi all,

    I would like to purchase a Caroni TM 1900.

    Any idea where I could purchase one in Eastern Canada?

    Thanks

  6. #16
    Super Star Member IslandTractor's Avatar
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    2007 Kioti DK40se HST, Woods BH

    Default

    Call AgriSupply and see if they can do it.

  7. #17
    Elite Member
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    JD LA115, WH 244, WH 525 hydro-pops,Original Troy Built Horse 8 HP

    Default Re: Two specific questions on a Caroni TM1900 flail mower

    Yup,

    How far are you from Pugwash, N.S?


    I second what Island tractor has said on that, and "their" meaning Agrisupplys import agent
    should have no issues with exporting it to you as NAFTA, as much as I hate it eliminates all
    the crap about fees between the northern territories and the Carolinas.


    The crate would be separated from an incoming shipment
    and shipped to you if any of their stores are unable to sell
    one to you immediately and ship it.


    An option would be to call and find out if they have a TM1900
    within thier system and have it shipped by rail via
    AMTRAK to CP/freight passenger service via Norfolk Southern
    and CP or CN via the passenger/mail service trains if possible
    as the distance is over 500 miles to a rail freight terminal that
    is near you.

    If you have time for adventure perhaps a trip south by plane and then north by
    rail is an option and you could arrange to have the mower loaded
    on the baggage car as you would be paying for its cartage to home.

    leonz
    Last edited by leonz; 10-14-2010 at 04:00 AM.

  8. #18
    Veteran Member
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    Central Lower Michigan
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    Kioti DK40SE

    Default Re: Two specific questions on a Caroni TM1900 flail mower

    I was looking for the belt part # and came across my own thread here. Seems like a good time for an update. I've used the mower for two seasons (getting it ready for this one). Overall I'm very happy with it. I did manage to shred the belts late last fall, but it was probably from running over some metal wire that got completely tangled around the drum, can't really blame the mower design for that. On the whole I like the flail a lot better than the LX6 rotary cutter I had before it. Mostly because it's much more compact, doesn't scalp as much, and doesn't throw rocks anywhere near as much or as far. (It still can throw rocks, however, so be safe in terms of distances from people or pets.) Do yourself a favor and don't run over any wire or rope, it's a real pain to remove from the mower drum.

  9. #19
    Super Star Member IslandTractor's Avatar
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    Default Re: Two specific questions on a Caroni TM1900 flail mower

    Besides trying to avoid wire and rope, I suggest avoiding hose too. I snagged a hidden garden hose stretching across the area I was mowing. I didn't know I had snagged it and was stunned to see the longest snake I had ever seen was rushing towards me and under the tractor. I was flabbergasted until the tractor stalled and I saw that the "snake" was a garden hose. Got a good fifty feet (big snake!!) wrapped up before it stalled. Luckily I had a pair of sheet metal snips in my tool box so it only took ten minutes or so to remove the hose carcass. Amazing how quickly that flail will wrap up anything flexible.

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