What is the recommended lubricant to use in a Shaver Auger, I believe it is the Mouse model. I haven't used mine recently and need to drill some holes now and thought it would be worthwhile to check the lubricant if I can figure out the fill plug location, etc. I am thinking something like 90 weight gearcase oil would be right but am not too certain. Thanks for any advice.
Lubricant for auger
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Soundguy
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I'd always advixe to check your manual.. but in leiu of that.. 80w90 in non severe usage variable, and 85/140 in more severe usage variables.
soundguy
soundguy
Sandlot
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I copied this right out of my Gearmore auger manual.
GEARBOX -
Fill gearbox with gear oil. Use SAE #140 multigear lubricant or equivalent.
Gear oil should be changed after 500 hours of use.
GEARBOX -
Fill gearbox with gear oil. Use SAE #140 multigear lubricant or equivalent.
Gear oil should be changed after 500 hours of use.
Thanks for the replies. I did some more searching and found my owners manual, or what was given to me as the manual for the PHD. At the time of the purchase the PHD was just a model 301 it appears, which is now called the "Mole", I thought it was a "Mouse" based on the short auger bit. In my manual it says to use SAE 90 EP oil and to replace it after the first 50 hours of use. I don't think I have that many hours on it yet, probably closer to 10-20 so I will just top it off for now and use it some, then replace the oil. I have a lot of holes to dig in some pretty hard Atlanta area clay. My one man hand held auger didn't cut in more than about 12" on the softest spot I happened to try and just about wrenched my shoulders out of place doing that, so I am hoping this will be my saviour since digging by hand is too slow and way too much work in this 95 degree heat.
And if any of you have some advice on another aspect of this project I would appreciate your experience and wisdom for it. My existing auger bit is a 9" but most of the posts I want to put in will be 4x4 pressure treated. I do plan on using 6x6 posts at certain intervals, corners, potential gates, etc. where the 9" auger seems fine. However that size auger really leaves a big hole for a 4x4 so I bought a 6" bit at a nearby TSC store that is made for a different PHD. This 6" bit is too long for my tractor/PHD combination, and the attachment point seems to be a larger diameter than my Shaver gear box output shaft. On this new auger bit the attachment point is a larger pipe welded onto the shaft and the shaft appears to be the same diameter as the original Shaver shaft which directly mounts to its gear box shaft. So my plan is to cut off the oversized pipe section and drill the needed holes into the shaft to attach it to my Shaver.
What I don't know is if the shaft on the 6" bit is as heavy a gauge as the Shaver bit so it may not hold up too well. I also may need to cut off a few inches at the top of the fluting for good clearance between it and the safety shield/gear box. If the shaft is thin material then it no doubt will tear up quickly but I can't determine that without drilling a hole through it making it impossible to return the bit to the TSC store for a refund. Any advice on this plan is welcome.
And if any of you have some advice on another aspect of this project I would appreciate your experience and wisdom for it. My existing auger bit is a 9" but most of the posts I want to put in will be 4x4 pressure treated. I do plan on using 6x6 posts at certain intervals, corners, potential gates, etc. where the 9" auger seems fine. However that size auger really leaves a big hole for a 4x4 so I bought a 6" bit at a nearby TSC store that is made for a different PHD. This 6" bit is too long for my tractor/PHD combination, and the attachment point seems to be a larger diameter than my Shaver gear box output shaft. On this new auger bit the attachment point is a larger pipe welded onto the shaft and the shaft appears to be the same diameter as the original Shaver shaft which directly mounts to its gear box shaft. So my plan is to cut off the oversized pipe section and drill the needed holes into the shaft to attach it to my Shaver.
What I don't know is if the shaft on the 6" bit is as heavy a gauge as the Shaver bit so it may not hold up too well. I also may need to cut off a few inches at the top of the fluting for good clearance between it and the safety shield/gear box. If the shaft is thin material then it no doubt will tear up quickly but I can't determine that without drilling a hole through it making it impossible to return the bit to the TSC store for a refund. Any advice on this plan is welcome.
Soundguy
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I don't think I'd be cutting into the fluted part.
just resizing the shaft and adding a cou8pler pipe.. I'd not be too scared about.
thinner material for a smaller auger seems ok.. again.. just my opinions.
soundguy
just resizing the shaft and adding a cou8pler pipe.. I'd not be too scared about.
thinner material for a smaller auger seems ok.. again.. just my opinions.
soundguy
I'm curious why you wouldn't cut into the fluted part? My reason for that is that the 6" auger is too long for my tractor, Kubota B2910. The 9" auger bit is a short design and I can remember the tractor salesman, owner, telling me I had to use a short auger for this size tractor. If I cut off the top six inches of the coupler pipe it might be short enough but I think the flutes might hit the guard and certainly would drive dirt up against the gear box.
I was just looking at the Shaver 9" bit after I took it off and measured the shaft which is 1 3/8" ID and 2 3/8" OD, 1/2" thick wall. The new bit has a 2" ID and actually has a sleeve welded onto the shaft as the coupler to strengthen it and the ID seems to be the same for the entire length. So the auger bit is much lighter weight material but that probably is not a big issue for a 6" auger but if I cut off the coupler portion it will be too weak most likely for the stress at the coupler.
So my option maybe to put a sleeve inside, probably would use a piece of galvanized pipe if I can find the right size. Since I don't have my welder hooked up, and it has been years since I welded anything, I wouldn't take that option despite being the best one (wouldn't use galvinized). Instead I would just put in a couple of bolts through the shaft and the insert.
I am not too crazy about that option and am thinking of visiting a better tractor store to see what they might have. I saw a thread about a place selling box blades at a good price which I currently have a use for so if they still have them I could accomplish two things. I haven't checked the distance yet, maybe way too far for a long day trip. Thanks for your advice on not cutting the spline, I will note it.
Soundguy
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you asked my opinion and I gave it. IMHO.. you will not get a strong joint if you are cutting down into the fluted parts.. especially if not welding it.
on smaller tractors.. not all big implements can be made to work.. just a fact o' life.
soundguy
on smaller tractors.. not all big implements can be made to work.. just a fact o' life.
soundguy
Thanks for the advice, I truly believe you about not all attachments will work with a small tractor. Seems a bit tricky to find a short 6" auger bit with a 1 3/8" ID coupler joint so I may give it a shot. I think I may have worded my plan poorly as well. Basically I want to cut off a portion of the pipe and also remove a portion of the spiral metal at the top so it won't hit the shields or drag dirt up to the gear box. I won't be cutting the pipe down that low, just recreating the same clearance aspect between the coupler and the auger spiral. This is a great forum, the DIY section looks like a great place for inspiration.
I hate to start a new thread to ask a question about my auger again, but maybe that is the preferred method. However here is my question using my old thread: I broke the shear bolt on my Shaver auger and I'm in the process of replacing it when I noticed the manual shows a "Roll Pin" as well as the shear bolt. This roll pin doesn't seem to be connecting the PTO shaft to the gearbox drive like the shear bolt does so what is it's purpose?
Just to finish up on my old topic of using a longer auger bit, I had struggled to make a coupler to attach the new larger ID auger bit to my auger and happened to find that the dealer had given me an adapter for this very purpose. That was several years ago and at the time I didn't really know what it was for. Right now I wish I had some spare shear bolts, seems like a 1/4" bolt is a bit small but a 5/16" won't quite fit. I bought some 1/4" bolts and am going to try that out but am concerned about deforming the auger shaft hole, not to mention that the bolt seems kind of small to do the job.
Just to finish up on my old topic of using a longer auger bit, I had struggled to make a coupler to attach the new larger ID auger bit to my auger and happened to find that the dealer had given me an adapter for this very purpose. That was several years ago and at the time I didn't really know what it was for. Right now I wish I had some spare shear bolts, seems like a 1/4" bolt is a bit small but a 5/16" won't quite fit. I bought some 1/4" bolts and am going to try that out but am concerned about deforming the auger shaft hole, not to mention that the bolt seems kind of small to do the job.