Bushhog Model 105 Gearbox ??'s and suggestions

[LD1]

I have a Bushhog model 105 that I bought about 4 years ago for $150.(Used older hogs are cheap around here.)

It has a gearbox/stumpjumper issue.

The taper in the stump jumper (the pan the blades attach to) is wore out. As well as the keyway in the output shaft. This allows the blades/pan to wobble. It is not normally an issue once up to speed, but starting up and when hitting bumps, the blades wobble enough that it bangs and clangs on the underside of the deck.

Welding up and cutting a new key would be no problem except I am having a heck of a time getting the output shaft pressed out of the housing assembly.

But my main concern is the tapered bore. It is wore enough to where it just doesnt tighten up before it hits the bottom of the gearbox housing. The big end of the bore measures 1.78 and the big end of the shaft measures 1.75.

Any suggestions on how to repair a worn tapered bore short of spending a lot of $$$ and taking to a machine shop. I have tossed around Ideas such as making it a straight shaft(if I could get it out). This would cost next to nothing since I have acess to an old manual lathe. Or I have though about just welding it on solid and when it gives out. I'll get another used hog.

I have gotten more than my $150 woth out of it so If I junk it now I wouldn't be upset. I just think there has got to be an affordable way to fix. New parts are out of the question. I checked messicks website and a complete new gear box is almost $1200:confused2: Just a new shaft assembly runs a little over 250 and the stump jumper with the tapered bore is a little over 200. For me, and what I can get a used hog for locally, it isn't really worth more than about 100 to fix.

All Ideas and suggestions are welcome.

 

[RickB]

Unless you have a machine shop that will work for peanuts (or free), you don't have a prayer of getting that work done for $100.

 

[LD1]

Just an update.

Since I did not get a whole lot of ideas and suggestions I thought I'd share what I did incase anyone else ever has similar problems.

I got the shaft out of the gearbox. It took a lot of heat with it under pressure from the press and tapping on the bottom, she finally pulled loose.

So now whith shaft out, the only thing really wrong with it is a worn keyway. The bore on the hub, the taper and keyway were shot. Since I have no way to bore the taper and no way to cut the key in the taper, I decided to leave the taper alone and dress the keyway with a file.

We then welded up the shaft and turned the taper to match the wore out bore. Giving the shaft an oversized taper. Custom made a key that is .530 wide instead of the origional 7/16.

It works like a charm. Everything went back together like a swiss watch. (not really). But it gets the job done.

 

[teg]

Thanks for the update... always like it when we get that :thumbsup: :thumbsup: - I buy used and like to repair vs. throw out... I hate when used parts are so expensive... might as well not have them. Would have like to see photos of how you did it, but taking them are usually an afterthought... My friend has one with (I think) the same problem and we were thinking to just weld everything together and get another year or so out of it...

 

[LD1]

Thanks for the update... always like it when we get that :thumbsup: :thumbsup: - I buy used and like to repair vs. throw out... I hate when used parts are so expensive... might as well not have them. Would have like to see photos of how you did it, but taking them are usually an afterthought... My friend has one with (I think) the same problem and we were thinking to just weld everything together and get another year or so out of it...

If you have ever had to weld up a journal that has spun a bearing, and cut a new keyway in it, then you should have no problem. That is basically all I did.
With no way to do anything about the bore, we just made the shaft match the "worn and oversized" bore. I wish I had taken a few photos, but I dont plan on taking back appart now.

As to turning the taper, it is actually pretty easy. If you have a lathe and the tool holder has degree marks, just use that for the feed once you have measured and calculated the correct angle.