Flail Mower Waht? More Flail stuff? Attempting to id a model.

   / Waht? More Flail stuff? Attempting to id a model. #1  

mojoinco

Platinum Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2008
Messages
602
Location
Colorado
Tractor
TN55
Hello everyone! Brought home a 90" wide (roller) flail mower. It is highway yellow, a 'bit' worn, and has an IH sticker on it. It also has IH and part numbers stamped into the pulleys.

That is the only markings on it. One belt drive. Other than moving the pulleys back in (they are working there way off the shafts), everything seems to roll correctly and the flails (the typical v type) look ok as well.

Here it is (more pics later): International Harvester Flail Mower - eBay (item 190429190393 end time Aug-16-10 10:24:00 PDT)

I haven't found the magic Google term to figure the model out. Any ideas?
 
   / Waht? More Flail stuff? Attempting to id a model. #2  


You have bevel gear and ring gearing set on this one by the looks of the round gearbox.


If you have top link on your tractor I would remove the one already on it as it will only complicate things.

The grass slicer knife blades are referred to as a Y blade as they look like a capital Y when paired at rest.

Are they the small grass knives or the very long ones?




First:

The belt pullies will need second look- The set screws may have backed away from the key stock if set up that way.

You may need to drill a hole at the point where the set screw contacts the rotors stub shaft and that gives it something to grip to. you will need new set screws anyway for piece of mind and be sure to use a singledrop of blue Loctite on the set screw threads.

a. if the belt loses rubber when you hold it with your hand the belts need to be changed as the they are worn and the rubber molding is weakening.
If you can by the web belt for that size locally should do that, or if not buy the gates green belts and be sure to buy them with the same lot number on each belt.

On the belt guard side of the mower there are grease fittings and they are usually buried in rubber chaff and dust and need to be exposed and greased.

The end bearing which supports the first driven pulley from the gear box will have a grease fitting and need to be grease when you mow as well.

be sure to check the oil level in the gear box too- if it looks milky it has moisture in the oil and should be drained and replaced.

waiting for the pictures like everyone else:licking:





 
   / Waht? More Flail stuff? Attempting to id a model. #3  
its funny I see this post, as I was interested in these units to clear alder and small burch 1 to 2 inch in diameter. I have never seen one of these but would like to build one. Has anyone madeone of these?
 
   / Waht? More Flail stuff? Attempting to id a model. #4  
Flail mowers etc.


its funny I see this post, as I was interested in these units to clear alder and small burch 1 to 2 inch in diameter. I have never seen one of these but would like to build one. Has anyone madeone of these?



This is something you cannot really build unless you have a fully equiped machine shop and expertise with machinery manufacture (no offense ment).

You would be money ahead buying a mowing tractor with a boom mower at an auction for what you want to do or by a small Caroni mower with hammer knives from Agri Supply - Farm Supplies, Tools, Lawn Mower Blades, Cast Iron Cookware


the surplus mowing tractor with a boom mower would allow you to grind the trees from the top to the ground.
 
   / Waht? More Flail stuff? Attempting to id a model.
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Finally - pics!
 

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   / Waht? More Flail stuff? Attempting to id a model. #6  
thanks for the pictures;


1. you need a new top link for the tractor unless you have one for the tractor already for the adjustable top link.

2. you need a new belt for the mower.

About the belt pullies-

1. you need to remove them completely.
2. clean the male and female splines to the point they have no grease or dirt or dust-no emery cloth but a wire brush, tooth picks if needed, and DL hand cleaner and then some alcohol to finish cleaning with blue mechanics paper towels.

3 . replace the each of spline tensioning bolts with grade 8 fine threaded allen bolts, two allen head split lock washers for each allen bolt(hex head capscrews)and two nylock nuts for the allen bolts.

a. make sure the pulleys are in line with steel straight edge if you have one as all is lost if they are not!!!!

b. the the fine thread allen bolts and nylock nuts keep it from loosening, bashed knuckles etc. and you will not need the blue loc-tite. it will be easy to properly torque the nylock nuts to a low dry bolt torque value and they should not back off the splines at all.

It looks like you need a new skid or two and it should be easy to obtain form Alamo or have them made locally.

The grass knives look fine other than being a bit rusty and use a bit of fluid film on the knife hangers to loosen them up before mowing.

the grass slicer knives are still available from several suppliers so thats not an issue.


let me know if you would like to change the mounting to a spring tensioned
knife hanger and I can tell you where to obtain them if you like.
 
   / Waht? More Flail stuff? Attempting to id a model.
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Thanks for the help Leonz. Fine thread is a good idea.

The blades and hangers all hang free, but what do you mean by a spring tensioned knife hanger?

The skids have had the shoes rebuilt (relined -- maybe 'resoled' is a better term).

It looks to me like the top link is set up for a much larger pin on the tractor side. I like the implement end having the slot in it. Probably easier to do something that is hinged like some brush hog style units have (more movement allowed to follow the ground).

Still would like to know what model it is (not that there is much special about it, bits and pieces wise).
 
   / Waht? More Flail stuff? Attempting to id a model.
  • Thread Starter
#8  
I looked at the Flailmaster web page and the hammer hangers look like the Jacobsen hanger. Don't have any other ideas, but figure IH likely didn't make everything they sold, even then.
 
   / Waht? More Flail stuff? Attempting to id a model. #9  
I've been racking my brains out trying to figure out what brand flail mower I had bought at auction 2 months ago. Flailmaster.com was convinced that it was a Jacobsen because of the bull-nosed type hammer hangers on the mower roller. It turns out that Ford manufactured the Jacobsens.


Tonight, while trying to put on a "C57" 61" belt (which will not fit), I found markings on the pulley wheels indicating IH.

The upper wheel had IH 404838 R2 and the lower had 484038 (with a IH logo next to it). The gear box had a number WA67-01B. I'm a new member here and if I can figure out how to do it, I will post some photos.

When I googled "international harvester flail" I found this link. Thank God, Himself!!!

This tread has photos EXACTLY like the flail mower that I bought, except the tension wheel assembly is somewhat different. Even the numbers on the gear box and pulley wheels are the same!

There were no decals or any markings to indicate the brand on my flail, only a black bordered metal plate which said "Identification Number 71 U-1111"

Does this match up to an International Harvester Model?

Where can I get replacement parts? Is there anyone near Northeastern Pennsylvania , NJ or NY who can work on and repair these flail mowers?

Anyone know the model? It has a 84" cut and the flail body itself is 92" wide.
 
   / Waht? More Flail stuff? Attempting to id a model. #10  
I've been racking my brains out trying to figure out what brand flail mower I had bought at auction 2 months ago. Flailmaster.com was convinced that it was a Jacobsen because of the bull-nosed type hammer hangers on the mower roller. It turns out that Ford manufactured the Jacobsens.


Tonight, while trying to put on a "C57" 61" belt (which will not fit), I found markings on the pulley wheels indicating IH.

The upper wheel had IH 404838 R2 and the lower had 484038 (with a IH logo next to it). The gear box had a number WA67-01B. I'm a new member here and if I can figure out how to do it, I will post some photos.

When I googled "international harvester flail" I found this link. Thank God, Himself!!!

This thread has photos EXACTLY like the flail mower that I bought, except the tension wheel assembly is somewhat different. Even the numbers on the gear box and pulley wheels are the same!

There were no decals or any markings to indicate the brand on my flail, only a black bordered metal plate which said "Identification Number 71 U-1111"

Does this match up to an International Harvester Model?

Where can I get replacement parts? Is there anyone near Northeastern Pennsylvania , NJ or NY who can work on and repair these flail mowers?

Anyone know the model? It has a 84" cut and the flail body itself is 92" wide.

OK about your flail mower first no worries;


No worries, V-belts are metric, V belt pulleys are S.A.E.,
roller bearings are metric, repalcement roller bearings
are available for your flail mower rotor bearings,
end bearing are available for the shaft driven portion
of the flail mower, and the rear roller if equiped with
roller bearings(most likely).

You can contact www.flailmaster.com
if you have questions about specific parts with
no worries as they will very helpfull.
You can also contact a CaseIH equipment dealer
to try to identify it as well.

With the purchase of your flailmower YOU have become
a valued elite member of the flail mower nation with
the purchase of your flaimower. And in which is a very
large community of happy flail mower owners that
happily mow their fine turf and brushland that they may
want to make into fine turf using the "Verticut Method"
of grass and brush mowing with a full width of cut for
the mower versus being stuck with only using half the width
of a rotary cutter as the opposite blade is always trailing
the one ahead of it.


And killing both bad and good snakes with act of mowing the
good sod or shredding brush-you do know that the reason farm
folks started mowing around the farm house was to keep snakes
away from the farm house dont you?

Just imagine how much fun golf would be with tall grass and weeds........


Many members are destroying invasives like poison ivy, poison oak,
poison sumac, by mowing brushland and good turf to keep them
in check and eventually detroying them in the turf and brush.

Another favorite pasttime is grooving ones lawn with the flailmower in the
lowest mower setting.


Many happy flail mower owners dethatch thier lawns with
overseeding blades cutting deep grooves int he lawn to aerate
and allow overseeding which creates an excellent seedbed
and allows you to spread pelleted lawn lime or hydrated limestone,
and gypsum to dissolve clay and allow better turf grass to grow.

The act of dethatching removes dead grass which will harbor mold
moss and bad bugs which will live in the dead thatch.
this also allows the turf grass to grow better and thicker by eliminating
the dead thatch and stringy turf weeds which grow in shaded areas.


Flail mowers are quieter in operation and very efficient for grass mowing
and brush mowing as the full width of the flailmower is used to cut the
grass and brush in front of it and mowing down to the sod in one pass if
desired where a rotary cutter is only using half the width of the mowers cut
to do the same job as the opposing mower blade is always trailing the one
that is cutting.

Flail mowers are very safe mowers in operation and the flail mower design
itself limits ability to throw objects as the object remains under the the
grass directing hood wherein the flailmower rotor carries the grass over the
rotor and back down to the ground in some models and carrying the grass
forward in some models used in machines used for ditch mowing by many
municipalities.

The flail mower has much greater cutting edge length in total versus a
rotary cutter or rear finish mower as each knive has a cutting edge and
each knive hanger has two Y blades per hanger and the flail mower knive
usually has a second cutting edge allowing the knive to be flipped over
and present a new cutting edge ready to work some more.


The shape of the flailmower blade allows the blade to become an airfoil
and create suction withing the mowre hood to lift and cut the grass and
brush with very high speeds of rotation AND you will have the luxury
of recutting the clippings a second time to shred them a second time
where this is not possible with a rotary cutter or rear finish mower.

AND mowing wet grass and brush is always easy and there is no waiting
for the grass to dry to mow it.


The full width rear roller is cheap way to stripe your turf with out buying
a striping kit too.

Some flail mowers have a wide scoop knive or a hammermill knive or duck bill
knive which is used for heavy brush and tree sheddding. Beet flails are used
to flail the beet tops of sugar beets prior to harvest,

flail choppers are used to mow alfalfa ground to make ensilage and elminate any potential winter kill of long alfalfa or other hay left standing in the field over the winter.


Welcome to the "Flail Mower Nation".



Once you go flail you never go back.
 
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