Toplink Best method to measure for correct length

[swmich42]

I have a JD609 I will be attaching to my JD 4700. Wondering if there is a good method to measure center link length to optimize this rotary mower. I recently viewed "everythingattachments" video links for various implements, which also included how to cut PTO shaft length. I thought this was a very helpful video. I will be using this set up for the first time this weekend, and am trying to prepare for any adjustments I may need to make, to allow the mower to function properly behind my 4700.

 

[leonz]

About your top link:

you want the top link to be long enough for the mower to be level while under use.

not being familiar with the mower I will assume it is a brush mower with a rear wheel.


1. ideally you want the deck to be level to mow brush etc., and to accomplish it you need to raise the rear wheel to allow the deck to follow the ground by simply letting it operate in float and simple cut brush; the rear wheel just acts like a rudder when you are turning slowly.


2 if you have an adjustable right lower link you need to crank it out to have equal length on both lower arms to allow propeer mounting and less trouble attaching the three point hitch.

3. before you attach the PTO shaft you should:

a. disconnect the pto shaft from the mower and raise the mower fully and measure the distance from end of both pto stubs and write it down. someplace.

b. next measure the compressed distance of the PTO shaft from end to end.

c. as long as the entire PTO shaft is shorter in total length than the distance of the stub shaft ends you will have no need to perform surgery.

4. if the mower has a slot in the top link point use the slot to mount the top link which allows the mower to tilt and follow the ground better.:thumbsup:

 

[RalphVa]

You DO NOT want the top link to be longer than the lift arms. So, at its normal operating point where it has the front and rear of the cutter at the right levels and with any slip gizmo at mid point, it should not be longer than the lift arms.

When my cutter was delivered in 2004, this was the case. I solved the problem by moving the lift pins to another location.

If the top link is too long, lifting the cutter drives the tail wheel into the ground rather than lifting it. It's simple geometry.

Ralph

 

[leonz]

first chapter in mower saga

You DO NOT want the top link to be longer than the lift arms. So, at its normal operating point where it has the front and rear of the cutter at the right levels and with any slip gizmo at mid point, it should not be longer than the lift arms.

When my cutter was delivered in 2004, this was the case. I solved the problem by moving the lift pins to another location.

If the top link is too long, lifting the cutter drives the tail wheel into the ground rather than lifting it. It's simple geometry.

Ralph

Edit: ralph I was talking about the right lower link arm only if it has the rack gear and crank to ensure it s cranked all the way
out to equalise the length of the lower links to ensure the proper geometry of the three point hitch when using a "mower" or any other ground engaging implement.



I apologise if I was not clear Ralph;

If the mower has a top link with the slot you should not extend the top link so much that it is greater than the lower links-it should be the same length.

the "slot" if it has one lets it follow the ground contours easier and as i said to allow the mower to slide along the ground with the tail wheel acting as a passive rudder.