chappo2011
New member
Hi all just needing to no if its ok to make a steel 1 as i keep braking the wood 1s any help with this would be great thanks
Sickle Bar broken pitman arm
- Thread starter chappo2011
- Start date
hawkeye08
Elite Member
Wood allows that part to break, saving the other more expensive parts. Perhaps make it out of hardwood? If you make it steel, what is the weak link then? Generally, they break when not mowing flat from what I hear.
OP
chappo2011
New member
its mowing as flat as i have a pto clutch an its belt drive to the pitman arm so i was thinking steel i have tryed hard wood same thing just pulls the ends off
sweettractors
Advertiser
I have 3 old Ferguson and Detroit sickle mowers (Forties era) that have factory steel tubular pitmans in them. Ken Sweet
DaveOmak
Platinum Member
The steel pittman would probably be too heavy.
The rotational force might tear something up.
I was breaking pittmans for a time on my JD9w. Even posted asking why? No response. Any who, what I did to "seemingly solve" the breakage problem, "knock on wood", was to recheck the bar and guards for alighment. Also checked the register etc.
When installing the mower I lowered the gear case so the flywheel/pittman shaft was only 8-10 inches off the ground. The case guard is almost dragging.
Having the sickle free to move, not bound at all, is very important. Getting everything "tweaked" just right can take time. Lots of time but it is worth it.
The way I figure most stuff is, the guys who designed the equip did stuff for a reason. I really think the wooden pittman was installed to reduce centrifical force.
Dave
The rotational force might tear something up.
I was breaking pittmans for a time on my JD9w. Even posted asking why? No response. Any who, what I did to "seemingly solve" the breakage problem, "knock on wood", was to recheck the bar and guards for alighment. Also checked the register etc.
When installing the mower I lowered the gear case so the flywheel/pittman shaft was only 8-10 inches off the ground. The case guard is almost dragging.
Having the sickle free to move, not bound at all, is very important. Getting everything "tweaked" just right can take time. Lots of time but it is worth it.
The way I figure most stuff is, the guys who designed the equip did stuff for a reason. I really think the wooden pittman was installed to reduce centrifical force.
Dave
Don't know if this applies in your case, but when we used to mow alfalfa hay with a sickle mower, the bar would become gummed up. This was caused by a build-up of the vegetation juice and dust/dirt. We could tell when the bar needed cleaning by the sound. We would just take the the mower to a creek crossing and run the machine in/under water for a while. Suppose a garden hose would have been as good or better, but the creek was handier. Dad later aquired a mid mount Ford sickle mower with steel pitman that was indestructable. We actually side trimmed tree rows with that mower with the bar in the upright position. Even the ford mower needed a good water cleaning occasionally.
Expect you will find the next weakaest spot in your mower if you use a steel pitman. I believe I would be tempted to try it.
Expect you will find the next weakaest spot in your mower if you use a steel pitman. I believe I would be tempted to try it.