Top link adjustments

   / Top link adjustments #21  
No valid reason not to install it.
sure there is...and I won't go into details (you can find them if you're interested)... but for those that are unaware be sure to keep up with the latest version if you choose to use the mentioned product...

FYI there are much safer applicataions that read .pdf files if you choose to do so...enough said...
 
   / Top link adjustments #22  
Hmmm, thought the OP was talking about a rake and a box blade. Sorry.

He may have been.
My reply was based on the post that said "ALL":

and cause all ground engaging devices to bite even more.

Either way, the only way to get a feel for what happens is to just hook it all up and have at it
LOL
 
   / Top link adjustments #23  
HMMM, without hurting everyones feelings, shortening the top link will for sure make it less agressive which is good for grading where you just want to spread loose material. Start to increase the length and it begins to get more agressive as the blade angle gets more toward vertical and as you keep increasing the length it will again start to become less agressive as the blade will again just scrap the ground and not cut in. A mid point between shortest and longest is the most agressive point on a blade or box blade. However when tilting the box blade forward(shortening the top link) the scarifiers will become lower. If you dont wish to scarify, then you have to raise the scarifiers if you tilt too much forward. I usually put my scarifier teeth almost level with the bottom edge, then I can shorten to scarify or lengthen a few rounds to pull dirt. Lengthen too much and it wont cut or pick up anything.
 
   / Top link adjustments #24  
HMMM, without hurting everyones feelings...
Seems like a waste of time going forward here Gary, he's got his mind made up. Doesn't seem to be any kind of evidence or logic whatsoever that's gonna change it.

//greg//
 
   / Top link adjustments #25  
I think that a lot of the confussion here is that some people are talking about rear blades as the op mentioned and some are talking about box blades. They work on completely different principles. When you lenghten the top link on a box blade the unit rolls back on the back reverse facing blade thus lifting the front blade up which limits its ability to dig aggressively. When you lengthen the top link on a plain old rear blade the blade angles back and digs harder. Like draging a razor blade across your arm. Hold it vertical and it just scrapes. Angle it back and the cutting becomes more aggressive.
 
   / Top link adjustments #26  
HMMM, without hurting everyones feelings, shortening the top link will for sure make it less agressive which is good for grading where you just want to spread loose material. Start to increase the length and it begins to get more agressive as the blade angle gets more toward vertical and as you keep increasing the length it will again start to become less agressive as the blade will again just scrap the ground and not cut in. A mid point between shortest and longest is the most agressive point on a blade or box blade. However when tilting the box blade forward(shortening the top link) the scarifiers will become lower. If you dont wish to scarify, then you have to raise the scarifiers if you tilt too much forward. I usually put my scarifier teeth almost level with the bottom edge, then I can shorten to scarify or lengthen a few rounds to pull dirt. Lengthen too much and it wont cut or pick up anything.

This is SORT-OF what I have seen, although I never have shortened it far enough to make it less aggressive. What I typically have found is that lengthening it make the front of the cutting edge loose contact with the surface of the soil, so the blade then is sort of sliding or skimming and not cutting. The edge gets to riding on its heels and doesn't cut. I've seen the same thing in packed snow. To really scrape (and yes, sometimes even chatter) you have to have the top link short enough so the very front edge is in contact. This will vary depending on the implement and how much it has worn.

For my rake, I don't see a whole lot of difference. What does seem to affect it a lot is if it is angled or not. When anged, it will cut much better. Obviously, if it has gage wheels, then the adjustment of the wheels make a substantial difference.
 
   / Top link adjustments #28  
You guys make me long for a hydraulic top n tilt so I don't have to think LOL
 
   / Top link adjustments #29  
sure there is...and I won't go into details (you can find them if you're interested)... but for those that are unaware be sure to keep up with the latest version if you choose to use the mentioned product...

FYI there are much safer applicataions that read .pdf files if you choose to do so...enough said...

You have chosen not to be able to read pdf files. That is your choice.:laughing:
 
   / Top link adjustments #30  
You have chosen not to be able to read pdf files. That is your choice
I did not say I choose not read .pdf files...what I said was:

I don't have adobe (or other product on this system) capable of displaying .pdf files...
If I need the data that is encoded as a .pdf I can use one of several applications availble for Unix or Linux O/S's :D
 
 
 
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