Posthole Digger What PTO HP am i looking for?

[ajwren]

I have a question also about PTO HP requirements for a Tractor i want to buy (been looking for 6 months!).
I have a new Property (4.5 acres) that basically requires (at some time in the future) to be Fenced off (meaning lots of post hole digging), and am considering these Tractors to do the Job. but mainly it will be used to do Field Mowing and such but I dont want to buy something that may be underpowered (learned from previous posts).
I am looking at a JD 2520 (FEL(300CX?),JD 46 BH, 350 HRS for $17500) or a JD 3720 (FEL(300CX?) 150HRS, dont know price yet). I know the 3720 has at least 20 more HP at the PTO, but is it too much? and would the 2520 be too little? I dont want to be driving a monster around (looking like an idiot, lol) for mostly mowing... but i dont want to find out later that i should have bought bigger. Anyone got any ideas on what PTO HP may get the job done? or should i look for something in between, a (JD,Kubota) 30/35HP Tractor with 26/30 PTO HP? The ground, that i know so far is not bad, pretty earthy and some smaller rocks.
Thanks in advance...
ajwren

 

[luckyme2010]

always get bigger than what you think you need i made that mistake by getting a 35 horse which it did everything i wanted it to but then i started seeing thing that needed to be done and didnt have quiet enough to do it without getting in a bind so i sold that one and got a 55 horse no problems now if it were me i would go with atleast a 35 hp i believe that would get anything done on 4.5 acres a 35 hp isnt a monster and it isnt a tinymight its a good middle size it will handle a 5 foot bushhog a 2 row 18" bottom plow "if you wanna garden" i used a 6' heavy duty disc no problems but also mine are mahindra tractors so im not sure how the others handle those implements but for me the 35 hp would be my pick so i hope this helps

 

[TripleR]

Look up the implements you intend to use and they will give you the HP ratings.

Some post hole diggers are PTO driven and some are hydraulically driven.

 

[leonz]

As Triple R has said so well you need to look at the horsepower required and

then start looking at the market rather than simply cruising the timber to find

the stumpage(tractor you want).


The thing about post hole diggers is they are entirely dependent on the

machine used to operate them and the amount of power available.


Stating that-The issue of implement utility and total use comes to mind in

several avenues. Let us assume you are fencing for the notorious fence

jumpers AKA Shropshires.



Assuming you are installing wooden 12 footers for 8 foot of perimiter woven

wire fence for the the little trouble makers -they will clear six foot BTW.


Speed and power are key; a tree planting auger will drill faster in ground than

a tube auger period and you want a tree auger for everything unless you

KNOW YOU ARE IN SAND PERIOD!!!!!!!!!


Back filling is faster than digging anyway so no worries about the dirt wad

left by the tree auger.


Second option is a rented back hoe which will be even faster than the tree auger and you can always backfill so thats not an issue period.


The corner posts and braces are a primary concern and typically are deeper

and or cemented with brace posts as well.


Asssuming the 4.5 acres is 3,800 feet in linear distance and you want 8 foot

woven wire for the lttle troublemakers, you will need 760 12-foot posts at a

minimum not counting water crossings of fence line and dips affecting the

fence string or lacing and resetting the woven wire at thse locations.


You will need at least 16 mid section braces and gates for the fence line.


The amount of time and work would be better spent finding a fencing

contractor that specialises in livestock fence installation as they can do it

faster with fence winders and high power drills to set posts and anchors

faster than most available PTO augers or hydraulic 3 point augers.


They will come in and stretch the woven wire with thier fence rollers then

staple the fence to the wire and move on to the 200 foot roll and continue.


Once the fence is in its in and done and done and the work is guaranteed.

They can stretch 200 foot rolls of fence much faster and easier with the fence

dispencers and rollers than can be done with 25 foot sections using stretcher

panel plates and cable come alongs. Been there done that lived with bad

fences and no money to fix them.


leon

 

[bp fick]

The only problem with the "always go bigger" argument is that sometimes, once the initial project is done, you can be left with a machine too large for daily maintenance of the property. Storage issues. Too heavy to cross yards. Too large as to be nimble in tight quarters. All these things need to be weighed out. Needing to sell in a year because it is now too large is just as costly, perhaps more so, than the cost of having bought too small. The tasks determines the tractor. Period.

Frankly, a JD 2520 is a really sweet machine, but is it right for you? TripleR is absolutely right. Think in reverse, if you will. Start with the jobs, think of the implements and THEN ask, "will this tractor operate these implements"? If yes, you're golden. If not, what size tractor will operate them? That's the process. Have fun deciding!

 

[ajwren]

Thanks everyone for the input. Really.

Dont know where to Start. Maybe Jeonz's idea of getting Professionals to do it could save me alot of time and headache. But having said that, where's the fun in that... I suppose i am asking a retorical question here. Why buy a Tractor if it's not going to do the work you need (would like) it to do?
I have lots of time and there is no TV at the property. So i gotta be doing something right..

Tractor will be doing 90% mowing
We have 380ft of river front on one side and a mountain bordering another side, so in fact there are only two sides to be fenced off.
I have several stumps that i would like to clear out (over time), just chip away at them.
I would like to move River rock up on to the property for a fireplace and some wall/dam construction (river is low bank and can overrun up near the house)
I would like to grab timber that has floated down river and rake and clean up flood area every summer
Leveling Ground and upkeep on driveway

I am kinda leaning towards the 2620 for some reason. I think the 3720 maybe to much machine somehow, overkill for the 5 acres.
Maybe i should look for something in the Middle the 30/35HP range.
I am also wondering what/why i would go Hydraulic insted of PTO driven? And, (not done yet) How do you like your Mahindra Tractor, i have also been looking into those..?
Thanks again everyone
Ajwren

 

[TripleR]

OK, sorry, but I grew up on a farm raised cattle, hogs, goats and Lord knows what else and the words "fun" and "fence building", should NEVER be used in the same sentence.

Leon has it right on this one, I'd do just about anything to get out of building another fence; gotta go lie down, I'm feeling kind of dizzy.

 

[beppington]

While it's a tiring, sweaty job, especially when it was 95 out all the time, I've been enjoying putting up my new fence. Pretty satisfying seeing it come together.

Of course I'm typing this from a comfy-chair, air-conditioned office.

 

[TripleR]

While it's a tiring, sweaty job, especially when it was 95 out all the time, I've been enjoying putting up my new fence. Pretty satisfying seeing it come together.

Of course I'm typing this from a comfy-chair, air-conditioned office.

Man, it's a shame you don't live closer, have I got a deal for you.:laughing:

 

[Chilly807]

We're on 10 acres, building horse fence. I don't know what you're planning on fencing, but the job doesn't vary a lot unless you're fencing elephants.

Almost any tractor will run a PTO driven post hole auger power-wise, you do need to consider whether the frame is big enough to give you enough height to keep the auger tip off the ground.

We have a Kubota 3400 which runs a PHD, 5 foot brush mower, 6 foot rear blade, etc. No problems so far.

The auger that came with ours was a 9 inch, good for fence posts up to about 6-7 inch diameter or 4x4 posts, but for 6x6 a 12 inch will be on the wish list. Not so much for getting the post in the hole, but for wiggle room to get it vertical and where we want it. Bear in mind, not all holes are created either vertical or exactly where you want them, contrary to popular belief and best intentions.

We planned for some light logging, snow removal, garden plowing, and moving small round bales if necessary over time. If you're buying a loader, pay close attention to how much it can lift. The Kubota L2800/L3400/L3700 series is notoriously "weak" when it comes to lift capacity. Aside from the 3 point roughness, it's their Achilles heel.

The trouble with the small tractors, and mine is on the edge of "small" by farm standards, is not so much power as it is weight. You'll run out of traction, ground clearance, and weight to handle implements long before the engine is overburdened. The one exception to that might be mowing, it puts a decent load on the engine.

If you're planning on mowing a lawn with it, the 3400 size is simply too big to get around stuff without tearing the lawn to shreds. The 3720 is the same story, in fact the two are comparable performance wise.

My philosophy is that I have the Kubota to do small-farm chores, and it does them well, I got the size perfect for what we're doing. If I need to mow the lawn, then I need to buy a lawn tractor for that purpose. Come to think of it, I really DO need a ride-on mower... the two push mowers are falling out of favour with both the wife and I.

If you have doubts, go a little bigger as long as it will fit into whatever shelter you have, and can get around the property. Acreage is a poor way to judge how much machine you need, the job it has to do and the implements you're going to need is the best yardstick for size and power.

Sean