Backhoe Added a ripper to my Woods BH90x: Trees beware

[Coyote machine]

Ta, Da! Below are the roughest two drawings EVER seen by mankind
Now if one will just look at them for discussion purposes and to determine orientation of either the recessed type tooth or the protrusions, I'd really appreciate it.



Sorry for the eye torture

Thanks,

CM

 

[IslandTractor]

Ta, Da! Below are the roughest two drawings EVER seen by mankind
Now if one will just look at them for discussion purposes and to determine orientation of either the recessed type tooth or the protrusions, I'd really appreciate it.

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=243418"/>

Sorry for the eye torture

Thanks,

CM

Nice to see at least one other member has equally horrible drawing skills.

I would not make the cut outs that aggressive. I liked the half moon cut outs on the JD ripper thread and would consider putting those on the front and back but starting about half way up.

 

[Coyote machine]

Hey, That drawing was left handed and my eyes were closed
Do you know which JD thread/ pic(s) you're referring too?

As to my drawing's representation - I was, and still am trying to figure out which way the cutouts should be facing to effect best result.
Here's the logic: if the tooth is curling when placed against a root and force is pulling on the root up and back, then the root is likely to slide from the hardened point toward the hoe's pins. So it would seem that the cutouts ought to force the root toward the backside of the ripper tooth to keep the root from traveling further along the ripper's edge. Do you concur with this?

 

[IslandTractor]

This is the type of cut out I would personally recommend (based on no experience with cut outs!). http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...re-260-backhoe-ripper-2011-11-03-19.42.52.jpg

The shallow half moon cut out has enough opportunity to grip the root as it scrapes by but will not get clogged up like some of your more aggressive cutouts in the beautiful drawings you posted earlier. I'd put the cut outs just like these on the back but would also put some starting about halfway up the blade on the front.

Again, I don't know if cut outs would be the same as protrusions but they might be easier to fabricate especially if computer controlled cutting devices were used. If it was to be done entirely manually, I'd guess it would be much faster to just weld on a protrusion of some sort.

 

[Coyote machine]

IT,
Want to buy some ORIGINAL drawings? First come, first served, just call: 1-898-famous-artists!
Yeah I like those cutouts too, and what I would like MIE to do is merely a file change in the cutting process for the gen 2 ripper tooth. I think it will be easier, as you said, and more durable than making a protrusion.
So the question is: what direction should the cutouts you exemplified in the above yellow ripper be turned toward? Up to the hoe pins or down toward the end tip of the ripper?
The other thing that occurred to me is it is near impossible to see what you are doing with the hoe bucket/ripper, etc. when the implement is below ground or just enough out of view to really be able to know what is going on. Ideally one would have a mini-cam pointed at the point of impact near the tooth. I mention this because I can see how one could use the concave edge from tip to pins, but how it would be more difficult to see what the back side of the ripper was doing and therefore I still wonder why so many are focused on putting cutouts, attachments, or whatever on a side that is like the dark side of the moon?!

 

[IslandTractor]

IT,
Want to buy some ORIGINAL drawings? First come, first served, just call: 1-898-famous-artists!
Yeah I like those cutouts too, and what I would like MIE to do is merely a file change in the cutting process for the gen 2 ripper tooth. I think it will be easier, as you said, and more durable than making a protrusion.
So the question is: what direction should the cutouts you exemplified in the above yellow ripper be turned toward? Up to the hoe pins or down toward the end tip of the ripper?
The other thing that occurred to me is it is near impossible to see what you are doing with the hoe bucket/ripper, etc. when the implement is below ground or just enough out of view to really be able to know what is going on. Ideally one would have a mini-cam pointed at the point of impact near the tooth. I mention this because I can see how one could use the concave edge from tip to pins, but how it would be more difficult to see what the back side of the ripper was doing and therefore I still wonder why so many are focused on putting cutouts, attachments, or whatever on a side that is like the dark side of the moon?!

If it were me I'd make the cut outs neutral just as they are in the yellow ripper photo. That way they would work curling or dumping and they would be much less likely to clog too. In fact the half circle/half moon cut out really should not clog at all as there is nowhere for material to get jambed.

If I were ordering today, knowing what I have experienced but not knowing anything about the effectiveness of either my or Nickel's home made modifications, I would order a MIE ripper with the neutral half circle cut outs just as in the yellow ripper photo on the backside and would add the cut outs to the top half of the front side of the ripper blade. If that did not optomize root cutting then I'd weld on something like what Nickel has done myself on top of that. I'd want the front side cut outs done in the blade (like a bread knife) rather than on flat edges. The back side is flat so I'd just have the cut outs made in that and not try to make a rear blade edge.

 

[jake98]

You guys remind me of some kind of cult with those things displayed in your back yards.. do you have to point them at the evil north wind or something?

 

[Coyote machine]

If it were me I'd make the cut outs neutral just as they are in the yellow ripper photo. That way they would work curling or dumping and they would be much less likely to clog too. In fact the half circle/half moon cut out really should not clog at all as there is nowhere for material to get jambed.

If I were ordering today, knowing what I have experienced but not knowing anything about the effectiveness of either my or Nickel's home made modifications, I would order a MIE ripper with the neutral half circle cut outs just as in the yellow ripper photo on the backside and would add the cut outs to the top half of the front side of the ripper blade. Why just the top side? (to clarify, you're saying nearer to the hoe pins, yes?) If that did not optomize root cutting then I'd weld on something like what Nickel has done myself on top of that. I'd want the front side cut outs done in the blade (like a bread knife) rather than on flat edges. Agreed! but I'd probably add a chiseled edge leading from the hardened tip toward the hoe pins to make sure there was no chance of roots escaping without being cut to some extent on every pass. The back side is flat so I'd just have the cut outs made in that and not try to make a rear blade edge. Also agreed.

Island,
My comments are in blue above in your original text.

 

[IslandTractor]

I'd only do the cut outs on the front blade top half (near the attachment pins) because I would expect the plain current style ripper to be more efficient at cutting into the ground itself. No evidence of that other than what I know the ripper does well in current form.

 

[Coyote machine]

I'd only do the cut outs on the front blade top half (near the attachment pins) because I would expect the plain current style ripper to be more efficient at cutting into the ground itself. No evidence of that other than what I know the ripper does well in current form.

Would you agree that angling the cutouts to favor cutting when the ripper is curling and pulling up and toward the dipper stick or just leave them as they are in the yellow cutter?
Please state why you prefer whichever way...

Thanks,

CM