That is about what I was talking about. A carbide tooth on those spikes would stay sharp longer, and as you drag it across the root, it would cut a slice out of it until it cut trough.
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That is about what I was talking about. A carbide tooth on those spikes would stay sharp longer, and as you drag it across the root, it would cut a slice out of it until it cut trough.
That is an evil looking ripper IronHorse. Thanks for posting.
With experience using it now, what if anything would you do differently in design?
JJ , yes some Carbide rock/milling drum teeth and holders would work well on the leading edge .
IT , If I was to do it again I probably would do as above with the teeth that JJ mentioned as they would be aggressive enough to replace the tooth I have .
Other than that I don't think I'd change it as it works as it was planned .
Would down pressure be necessary with a curved shank? The angle of the shank should pull it into the ground. With an adjustable top link the angle could be adjusted. I agree, some type of extension would help reach past the tree to severe those roots.Quote:
Originally Posted by IslandTractor
Tom...about using a subsoiler...look at what Randall did in the first post...By the way I bought one of those 3 point hitches that goes on the loader. I have not used the subsoiler to remove any trees, yet.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/c...nd-loader.html
One issue that would concern me with the front mounted subsoiler is that it puts a lot of stress on the curl cylinder when it is in the extended position. We know those cylinders can be damaged with similar extension when people backdrag with the bucket too aggressively. Might that be a problem?
Mounting a subsoiler on the FEL the opposite way with the tine facing forward would permit use like a really skinny stump bucket which might be safer and more powerful. I'd imagine on my tractor that full FEL curl force of about 3000 lbs concentrated in a one inch area would be almost identical to the force possible with the ripper on my BH90x.
Using the FEL for this function could be very effective. It would be hardQuote:
Originally Posted by IslandTractor
for some users to avoid the use of tractor momentum with this ripper,
however. As long as only the bkt curl force hydraulic forces are used, you
can design support brackets strong enough to hold up.
Dave,Quote:
Originally Posted by Redbug
Thanks for the link. That will definitely get my thought processes going in a different direction.
Tom
Yeah Tom I bought one of the loader 3 point hitches. It works really good with my landscape rake. I have used it with my subsoiler. There's more control with the subsoiler up front...you can adjust the angle and down force on it. Can't do that attached on the back of the tractor. A subsoiler has a sharpened blade and front edge, too.
I bought the one made by WildKat Attachments.
WILDKAT ATTACHMENTS - Miscellaneous Attachments
I've been in contact with Bob at M.I.E. and have ordered a ripper tooth for my similar Woods BH90-X but with a hydraulic thumb. Made one change-no cutouts in the shank. I've got about 20-30 8" to 12" oaks that need to be removed in order to build our next home.
Island: You sure picked a wrong time to post your ripper tooth revelation to us! Bob said there will be a slight delay in production as he is currently overwhelmed with snow related attachments! What the hay? I live in sunny california and just don't understand that eastern white stuff!:cool: Two weeks out is o.k. with me.
Thanks Island for your concept on this project.