PTO shaft removal

[5030tinkerer]

I picked up a John Deere 686 single auger two stage snow blower. When I got it home, I noted that the PTO shaft was cut way too short for my needs. The tractor side of the shaft slid out easily. It's a standard 1 3/8" spline connection. The implement side, however, is being a BEAR.

It's a 1 1/2" round, 3/8" keyway design at 12 o'clock WITH a 1/4" or so thru hole at 9 and 3 o'clock. A 3/16" set screw was pressing against the key. Two additional bizarre-sized set screws (smaller than 5mm and 3/16, yet larger than 4mm and 5/32") were on either side of the yoke covering the thru hole. In the through hole was a roll pin.

I removed the 3/16" set screw against the key, had to drill out the two other set screws for lack of an allen wrench that would fit it, and tapped out the roll pin, BUT the yoke won't slide off of the gearbox shaft.

With the blower attached at the 3 point, I've tried hammering, tugging, jiggling, impact hammering, using penetrating fluid, and even putting a 2" ratchet strap through the cross in the ujoint and pulling against the draw bar. Nothing.

Any other ideas to get this stubborn thing off?

 

[zzvyb6]

JD parts shows a cap screw going thru the shaft and a set screw holding the key. That's it, unless the roll pin is actually a sheared off cap screw. Bigger hammer or get a die grinder and cut it off if its snowing. Git er one with a cold chisel.

 

[leonz]

Just for sanities sake, does the blowers
yoke possibly have a hidden castle nut
and cotter pin from the gearbox shaft
that may not be readily visible beause
of the spider/U joint obstructing the view?


If not:


If you have a salamander use it to heat the yoke
WITH the blower removed from the tractor,
other wise you will need a rosebud torch head.

I would leave the salamander to heat it for at least
an hour and then it should come off easily with a
2 pound hammer when you are wearing heavy gloves
or welding gloves if you have them to protect your hands.

If you can find Fluid Film at the local
John Deere dealer or another reseller
which can be found on the
Fluid Film? | Corrosion Preventative, Lubricant and Rust Inhibitor home page you
can use that to keep everything lubed
up on the splines during use to
prevent rust or the off season too,
as it penetrates and keeps out rust.

 

[zzvyb6]

Here is the view. No Castle nut. If the thru-hole is completely clear and the key set-screw is backed out, then soaking it in penetrating oil overnite ought to start moving it. If not, split it. Beating or heating it may hurt the bearings or seals in the gearbox (or worse).

I suppose you could also remove the gearcase seal, pull the snap ring, yank out the input shaft and then take it to a press.

 

[JasG]

I have had to cut them off before due to rusting in place. Cut 2 grooves across from one another, but don't go through into the shaft. Then use a chisel in one groove to finish (the chisel should cause it to crack) then it should come off.

 

[5030tinkerer]

I finally got it off - thanks for all the ideas! Liquid Wrench penetrating oil two nights in a row didn't get it done, but switching to PB Blaster on night three did the trick.

Now the fun begins to find a replacement shaft.

No one seems to carry a shaft with especially the implement end requirements of 1 1/2" round with the 3/8" key, much less with the 1/4" holes drilled at 9 and 3 o'clock for the through bolt. The 6 spline 1 3/8" tractor side seems like less of an issue, but even finding a replacement shaft that is already set up for a shear bolt (part #17 in the above pic) is proving problematic (both of my shafts have been cut to only 12" long - that's what started this mess!). It may be that I cut the existing tubing perfectly square and try my hand at welding on a replacement extension - not looking forward to that.

I just shot an email to a provider indicating that if they could leave the implement yoke off that I could re-use my end so long as they used a series 35 mating yoke.

I cannot be the first guy to need a replacement shaft, but it sure seems that way.

 

[Argosy]

Can you find a shaft with the same size u joints? If you can use the old yoke on the new shaft.

 

[Chilly807]

I finally got it off - thanks for all the ideas! Liquid Wrench penetrating oil two nights in a row didn't get it done, but switching to PB Blaster on night three did the trick.

Now the fun begins to find a replacement shaft.

No one seems to carry a shaft with especially the implement end requirements of 1 1/2" round with the 3/8" key, much less with the 1/4" holes drilled at 9 and 3 o'clock for the through bolt. The 6 spline 1 3/8" tractor side seems like less of an issue, but even finding a replacement shaft that is already set up for a shear bolt (part #17 in the above pic) is proving problematic (both of my shafts have been cut to only 12" long - that's what started this mess!). It may be that I cut the existing tubing perfectly square and try my hand at welding on a replacement extension - not looking forward to that.

I just shot an email to a provider indicating that if they could leave the implement yoke off that I could re-use my end so long as they used a series 35 mating yoke.

I cannot be the first guy to need a replacement shaft, but it sure seems that way.

I had to replace a section of PTO shaft last summer, your best bet may be to remove the tubes from the universals and put a new longer piece in. If you go this way you may also have to replace the outer shield tube too. Still cheaper than buying a whole shaft.

Sean