Shear Bolts 1 SubSoiler 0

[Sharkey71]

Today the shear bolts on the subsoiler did not do what they were suppose to so. I was pulling through some Missouri clay, and found a pretty good sized root. By the time I pushed the clutch in the damage was done.

I am thinking of replacing the cheap angle iron with some box or c channel. Ill never get it straight again,so I guess a plasma cutter is in order.

 

[geneP]

Are you sure those are shear bolts? The way the top of the shank butts up to that welded plate on top doesn't look like it would allow the shank to pivot if the bolt did give way. I think your tractor is too much for that attachment. I would replace the bent angle iron with a much heavier cross-piece while you have it cut out.

 

[Sharkey71]

Are you sure those are shear bolts? The way the top of the shank butts up to that welded plate on top doesn't look like it would allow the shank to pivot if the bolt did give way. I think your tractor is too much for that attachment. I would replace the bent angle iron with a much heavier cross-piece while you have it cut out.

According to the manual those are shear bolts. They are grade 3 bolts. The piece of angle that bent is the thinnest metal on it. So I will beef it up when repairing.

 

[geneP]

I won't argue with the manual, from looking at the picture I just can't see how it could pivot. Maybe it looks completely different in person. At any rate, we can agree that it needs reinforcing.

 

[Ford850]

I agree with Gene. I can't see how that could pivot if a bolt did break. You say they are grade 3 bolts, but by your picture they look like grade 5 (3 radial lines on head). I would change to grade 2 (no head markings) and be sure to leave the one intended to shear a little loose. If those bolts are tightened down they will not shear as intended.

 

[gwdixon]

I won't argue with the manual, from looking at the picture I just can't see how it could pivot. Maybe it looks completely different in person. At any rate, we can agree that it needs reinforcing.

I tend to agree about the pivoting. If the OP removes one of the bolts maybe he could show how it would pivot. By the looks it should be the bottom, or lower bolt. It almost looks like both bolts would have to shear to release.

Another alternative is to put in a smaller shear bolt. One size smaller should do it and leave more of a safety margin. Sure, it will rattle around but at least it would shear.

I'd recommend 2" square, 1/4" wall tubing to replace the bent section. The stuff is used on tool bars for ag tractors. It also comes solid but that is EXPENSIVE (around $40/foot) and heavy. The hollow stuff is around $5/foot.

 

[Bear Foot Farm]

I tend to agree about the pivoting

Add me to that list.

I cannot see any way at all it could pivot

Also, those bolts look awful big for shear bolts

 

[LD1]

I also agree so add me to that growing list:laughing:

And as aready mentioned, the 3 lines on the bolt head DOESNT mean grade 3. It means grade 5. And 6 lines is grade 8.

As others have suggested, once you get it reinforced, go to a grade two and leave them a little loose. You may need to use a lock nut so they dont fall out.

 

[Sharkey71]

The bolts are loose, with a nylon lock nut on the back side of the photo.

I removed the bottom bolt just to see if it would swing back, as in a shear.

Everyone was correct. it would only move a few inches back, until a bind on the top of the shank.

Makes me wonder about the manual? I picked it up assembeled at a dealer a few hours away, a few years ago. Did he put the wrong bolts in? Dodifferent shanks fit different models? Wrong matchup? Upon repair, I will round the top of the shank so it can swing back if the bolt fails. I will also put in a softer bolt, perhaps a size smaller.

Thanks for the ideas So much for trusting the manual :ashamed:

 

[Skyco]

Curious- what brand is it?