Box Scraper grading for large lawn areas
- Thread starter TerryMcQ
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Wedgie
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- Western Illinois
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Terry-
I have established a number of new yards and renovated older yards as well.
If I am working with a yard that has grass I spray it with Roundup to kill the existing grass to make the dirt easier to work with. I then till in yard with a rototiller. Let it sit for a day or two, then go back and rototill it again and use the landscape rake to begin establishing the grade and smoothness I want. I continue rototilling and landscape raking until I reach the proper degree of levelness. I then plant and straw the yard.
George
I have established a number of new yards and renovated older yards as well.
If I am working with a yard that has grass I spray it with Roundup to kill the existing grass to make the dirt easier to work with. I then till in yard with a rototiller. Let it sit for a day or two, then go back and rototill it again and use the landscape rake to begin establishing the grade and smoothness I want. I continue rototilling and landscape raking until I reach the proper degree of levelness. I then plant and straw the yard.
George
Thanks George. Now I have more questions and hope you can help a former city fool. I've been told it's a waste to use chemicals including roundup during winter. When should I start this work? Is there certain regular temperature I need to wait for? And as for killing everything, that's fine because I have lots of poison ivy and unwanted brush I want to get rid of but how long after using chemical can I plant grass seed and I also have a couple hundred tree saplings coming in the spring that I will want to plant asap after receiving them. Any advice would be appreciated. I want to have a great looking piece of land.
inveresk
Platinum Member
I sowed a couple acres lawn after tree felling. Here's what I did and what I did it with.
1. Dug out tree roots with backhoe and evened out ground..
2. Made several passes with box blade with teeth down to break up sod and vegetation and tear up the soil.
3. Ran over the disturbed ground with box blade with teeth up to remove clumps of sod and large rocks and even out bumps and hollows. (All this stuff was piled at the edge of the lawn for disposal later).
4. Hit the area a few times with rototiller to try to get a finer tilth.
5. Ran over the area several times with home made harrow (made from a section of chain link fence stapled and chained to an old log).
6. Walked the area twice picking up any rocks big enough to be a problem for the mower.
7. Sowed pasture mix with a walk behind broadcast spreader.
8. Rolled the lawn to press the seed into the ground and push any remaining small rocks below the surface. I hauled the roller around with my ztr because ag tires on the tractor would have ripped the lawn area up again.
For two acres, I'd a helper and it took us about four days with a 32hp tractor, 6' box blade and 5' rototiller. On my ground the tiller was essential. I bought it used for $900. I'd a pile of rocks, sod and surface vegetation I had to dispose of that I placed in a hole vacated by the rootball of a windblown tree.
I didn't use any weedkillers. Work was carried out in spring when ground was firm but still soft enough to work easily and when conditions were right for germination. Results were good.
1. Dug out tree roots with backhoe and evened out ground..
2. Made several passes with box blade with teeth down to break up sod and vegetation and tear up the soil.
3. Ran over the disturbed ground with box blade with teeth up to remove clumps of sod and large rocks and even out bumps and hollows. (All this stuff was piled at the edge of the lawn for disposal later).
4. Hit the area a few times with rototiller to try to get a finer tilth.
5. Ran over the area several times with home made harrow (made from a section of chain link fence stapled and chained to an old log).
6. Walked the area twice picking up any rocks big enough to be a problem for the mower.
7. Sowed pasture mix with a walk behind broadcast spreader.
8. Rolled the lawn to press the seed into the ground and push any remaining small rocks below the surface. I hauled the roller around with my ztr because ag tires on the tractor would have ripped the lawn area up again.
For two acres, I'd a helper and it took us about four days with a 32hp tractor, 6' box blade and 5' rototiller. On my ground the tiller was essential. I bought it used for $900. I'd a pile of rocks, sod and surface vegetation I had to dispose of that I placed in a hole vacated by the rootball of a windblown tree.
I didn't use any weedkillers. Work was carried out in spring when ground was firm but still soft enough to work easily and when conditions were right for germination. Results were good.
LD1
Epic Contributor
A lot depends on just how smooth you want it. What are you going to mow it with. If you plan on mowing it with your tractor or a riding mower, it doesn't have to be as good as if you are getting a ZTR. ZTR's go sooo fast that you want it as smooth as possible. And it doesnt have to be perfectly flat either. gently rolling is still smooth to mow with whatever you use.
That said, I wouldn't want to use the tiller. It will take forever IMO and tilling hard ground is rough. And unless you plan on gardening as well, a tiller is going to be expensive for this one time thing.
I would use a box blade and run the rippers all the way down and toplink as short as possible. This will make the rippers dig the deepest. And I would look for a box blade that has as many rippers as you can get. This will break up the ground similar to what a tiller would do. Then raise the rippers and lengthen the toplink and use the boxblade like normal to move and distribute the dirt into the low spots. Then once "roughed in" go over it with a drag similar to what has been mentioned.
Another attachment that isn't too expensive if you shop c-list is a landscape rake. It will do a similar job as a drag, only it will gather a few more rocks and get them out of the yard for you. They do an excellent job for a finish grade if the soil is already broken up. Seed it and straw it. Then stay off of it until it hardens up or you will just rut it back up.
That said, I wouldn't want to use the tiller. It will take forever IMO and tilling hard ground is rough. And unless you plan on gardening as well, a tiller is going to be expensive for this one time thing.
I would use a box blade and run the rippers all the way down and toplink as short as possible. This will make the rippers dig the deepest. And I would look for a box blade that has as many rippers as you can get. This will break up the ground similar to what a tiller would do. Then raise the rippers and lengthen the toplink and use the boxblade like normal to move and distribute the dirt into the low spots. Then once "roughed in" go over it with a drag similar to what has been mentioned.
Another attachment that isn't too expensive if you shop c-list is a landscape rake. It will do a similar job as a drag, only it will gather a few more rocks and get them out of the yard for you. They do an excellent job for a finish grade if the soil is already broken up. Seed it and straw it. Then stay off of it until it hardens up or you will just rut it back up.
Egon
Epic Contributor
OK:
The tractor should be fine.
For myself the roto-tiller would be essential.
I'd prefer the home made drag over the box blade as it will be wider and do a better job of leveling. Use the loader to move dirt around with.
For the drag a baulk of lumber about 10 feet long and six by six or bigger would work well. Using two of them with opposing angles would even be better and weight could be added if necessary. For a deluxe drag look up the one Eddie Walker built!
Finish off with a harrow or landscape rake.
Roundup only works on growing vegetation. It's use would make the sod clumps much easier to break up.
Roto-tilling goes much easier in moist soil.
Try and do the preparation before the trees show up. They are miserable to work around.
Note: there are many other good ideas presented.
J_J
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TerryMcQ,
I would recommend you go on YouTube and watch some box blade videos, and some Harley rake video, and other drag type implements.
YouTube - How to Use a Box Blade
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H7wRHccjr-A&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3R-8ZhFlO5Y&feature=related
I would recommend you go on YouTube and watch some box blade videos, and some Harley rake video, and other drag type implements.
YouTube - How to Use a Box Blade
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H7wRHccjr-A&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3R-8ZhFlO5Y&feature=related
TripleR
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All very good advice on which I can't improve as I have used all methods. Your tractor will do it, but when talking acres it will take a long time as it appears a lot of dirt will need to be moved. At some point you should consider renting something able to move more dirt. Having done all of this with small and big tractors, I prefer big though there will always be a place for the small ones.
JohninCT
Platinum Member
If the land is gently rolling, do you really think you need to rip up, grade and replant everthing? It might be better if you got a rotary cutter and mowed down the brush and try to reestablish the grass that is already there. Brush too big for the cutter to mow down could be pulled out separately using the tractor. If necessary you could then rent an overseeder and augment the grass that is already there. This could get a decent mowable area back with a whole lot less work ripping and moving dirt around which depending on your location and soil conditions could result in a lot more work than you might think. Ripping and tilling dirt here in New England brings up LOTS and LOTS of rocks which are a pain to deal with (picking them all up or hitting them with the mower)
Maybe you could tell a little more about your soil conditions and the type of condition you're trying to achieve (golf course type lawn or reasonably smooth and mowable yard/field?)
Maybe you could tell a little more about your soil conditions and the type of condition you're trying to achieve (golf course type lawn or reasonably smooth and mowable yard/field?)
jpm
Platinum Member
terry it will help if you ssay the type of soil you have. ie; clay .rock .sandy ect