Gauge wheels on MOUNTED plows tends to unload weight from the tractors hitch onto the gauge wheel. Harry Ferguson's "theory" when he invented the 3-point hitch was to use the implements weight AND the plows "suck" to replicate ballasted weight on the tractor. That's how a smaller tractor could pull a bigger plow with 3-point as opposed to a tractor/plow without 3-point.
If you have enough "grunt" (ie weight, hp, ect) with your tractor to be able to "manhandle" the plow, that unloading of weight won't be an issue. However....If you're really close on power, weight (traction) ect, a gauge wheel could be detrimental to your goal.
Kens "chain" depth control will help keep the plow at a constant depth, but it does upset the geometry of the 3-point hitch (in regards to draft control working properly) If you don't have draft control, the chain is an excellent way to solve the problem.
Also, in regards to an above comment. You DO NOT set a plow with a slight "nose down attitude". Shares in good (un-worn) condition create the "suck". Nose down plows tend to porpoise, (riding up and down) and if that plow should happen to have multiple bottoms (ie more than one) you'll end up with the rear bottom riding shallower than the front bottom. (Which is NOT a good thing) Plows need to set LEVEL when operating.....front to rear and side to side.
Best way to a consistent, accurate plow depth? Get a tractor like the one in my avatar photo! Still enough of Ol' Harry's influences in that line of tractors so that his invention works like it should!