Replacing PTO shaft, keeping U-Joints

[peterhorniii]

I just purchased a Phoenix T10 series 74" rototiller from (Temporarily blocked due to reports of company closure) It got here and when I put it on the tractor, i realized that the PTO shaft was too long, so I checked out Ted's video on how to measure and cut PTO shafts to length, and did as instructed. In a lapse of judgement that would take a page to describe, I managed to accidentally cut the shaft about an inch too short. The male and female shaft meet when the tiller is attached but they only overlap about .5", which I'm sure not enough to operate. I want to keep the U-joints and the slip clutch and replace the shaft pieces. Has anyone done this before? I attached pictures of the "triple lemon" shaft and of the pin that attached the shaft to the U-joint receiver. My main question is how to remove and replace the pin once I have the sections of shaft. Any help is welcomed!
(That's 9 month old Scout in the background. She hasn't been much help with this at all)

 

[leonz]

Hello Peter,

What you need to do is purchase the right size roll pin punch to remove the original roll pin and use a vice grip to compress the new one to start it in the hole then you can use the pin punch to drive it the rest of the way to reset it with zero problems.

 

[Craig Clayton]

When I went from a Ford 8N to a kubota the PTO shaft had been cut to fit. It now was shorter than I wanted for the Kubota. I bought 1 3/8 male to 1 3/8 female this extended the shaft about 6-8" . Cost was about $ 38.00. I am still using it to this day.
Craig Clayton

 

[Chilly807]

I had the same problem with my bush hog, had to replace the female half of the driveshaft. Different lapse in judgement, same result..

Mine was made by Eurocardan, and the shaft half was available through most any place that sells agricultural type driveline components.

Like Leon said, you drive the old pin out, and remove the old shaft (which may be quite tight). I drilled the new shaft piece in place with a drill press to keep it straight.. the problem with that is you tend to oversize the hole in the hub slightly. If you can mark the center of the hole with a punch, then drill it out of the hub, you're better off, but it's really hard to get that accurate.

If I had to do it again, I'd use a slightly smaller drill to start the hole with everything assembled, then remove the new shaft and finish drill the hole to size with it disassembled.

I had to stake the edges of the hole in the coupling to keep my roll pin in place, but it hasn't moved since I did that.

I see yours has the grooves cut in it for the outer shield. Do you have that ? If not it might be something for the wish list safety-wise.

Sean

 

[bjr]

Go to Baum Hydraulics, it's spelled all one word baumhydraulics dot com. I think you may have to get a customer account with them but they got the shafting you want. I've tried locally various dealers/distributors and driveline specialty shops and when I've ask for just the tubing I'd get a blank stare. I got pretty frustrated and finally went to Baum. bjr