Woods Brushbull Blades

[Anonymous Poster]

It looks like I'm going to have to change the blades on my Woods Brushbull, BB48. Seems like it didn't like that massive rock I hit. My question is...does anyone know what size socket the blade pin nut takes. It is BIG. On the caliper, it measures 1 11/16", or 42MM. Looks like I'm going to have to buy some bigger tools, and I would like to get it right the first time. Also, if anyone has done this, I would appreciate any do's, or don'ts you have learned from experience.

Thanks, in advance,

Don M.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

Do you have to change the blade or can you just sharpen them? What did the stone do to the blades? I have hit a lot of stones, both big and small and I have not had to switch the blades yet on our Woods 6'. Our Ford 5' chopper from the 70's finally got new blades because the one fell off. The blades last a long time and can take a lot of abuse. Just need to be sharpened every now and then.

 

[rdbrumfield]

I agree with Robert. Unless the blade broke or is bent badly, run it. Be sure to check those nuts on the blade pins on a daily basis. If one gets a little loose it will ruin the hole in the disk or arm that it is connected to.
I did some experimenting by taking the torch and cutting about an inch off the cutting edge and welding a cutting bit from a plywood lathe into it. It took off some four inch alders like paul bunyan with a broad axe. I used them for a week in heavy mowing and they did pretty well. I have had them put away for awhile so the are a bit rusty. The chalk is right along the weld line. The chalk line that runs across the bit towards the end is a crack from stress. The weld looks good though and I wouldn't be afraid to use them again. They do hold up better than mild steel.

 

[rdbrumfield]

Here's the other side

 

[Anonymous Poster]

It took a 1" chunk out of 1 blade, and about a 3/4" chunk our of the other. I have a new set of blades on the way. The BB still works ok, but I figure its just a question of time. I ground the worst of it out with my hand grinder, but to do it properly, I need to take the blades off, and put them on the bench grinder. I'm going to have to go about 40 miles to a tool store to get the proper size socket, so I'd like to make the trip once, and get the right size. I sent a E-mail to the Woods web-site to see if they can give me the info, but I've found that the info here is usually as good or better than what the manufactureres say. No substitute for experience!

 

[MikePA]

I've sent you via Private Message the name of the contact I have at Woods.

 

[jack9166]

The correct size socket you need is 1" 11/16 but I hope you have a air gun because they are still hard to get off.

Jack

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Thanks Jack...1 11/16 was what I measured, but was afraid that Woods might be using some metric size. I expect them to be hard to get off, but I have a stout breaker bar, and a good cheater pipe..should be able to move them. Thanks for confirming the size.

Don M.

 

[djradz]

Don, do yourself a small favor and buy one of these China-made 3/4" drive socket sets. They're pretty basic sets with a ratchet, breaker bar, one or two extensions and a set up throught, I think, 2" or so. For work on your tractor, brush hog, and even front wheel drive vehicles, they are almost indispensible. Best part is they usually cost only about $50 bucks at most places that sell inexpensive tools. If you can't find them locally, Northern Tool sells them in their catalog or on the Internet.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Yup, my thoughts exactly. My tools are pretty complete up to about 1 1/2"..guess I'm going to have to think bigger with a tractor. I've looked at some of the China sets, and most skip the 1 11/16" size, but I think I found one at Harbor Freight that includes this size for a fair price. Like you say, no need to spend $200+ for a set I may use only a couple of times a year.
Thanks, Don M.