Hitch pin size

[Rathpr]

I have an attachmnet with holes in the tongue of 3/4-inch. The drawbar has a hole of 1 1/4 -inch. If I get a 3/4-inch hitch pin it seems like this isn't going to pull smoothly when I stop and go. Is there any way to get this to fit better? Thanks.

[Skinnyman]

Without making a busing from scratch, look around for a short piece of 3/4 thick wall pipe that you can cut to length to act as a bushing. I used 3/4 sch 40 pvc to act as a bushing for a 1" dia. hole. I had to cut a kerf in the bushing so it would colaspe slightly but it works fine, even on heavy pulling.

[Squeak n Itch]

Without making a busing from scratch, look around for a short piece of 3/4 thick wall pipe that you can cut to length to act as a bushing. I used 3/4 sch 40 pvc to act as a bushing for a 1" dia. hole. I had to cut a kerf in the bushing so it would colaspe slightly but it works fine, even on heavy pulling.

Have done exactly this for a ball hitch on my truck for light-duty short-term fix.

Bruce

[Rathpr]

thanks for the info. I'll give it a try

[Snaker]

I have an attachmnet with holes in the tongue of 3/4-inch. The drawbar has a hole of 1 1/4 -inch. If I get a 3/4-inch hitch pin it seems like this isn't going to pull smoothly when I stop and go. Is there any way to get this to fit better? Thanks.

If the hole is 1 1/4" I'm guessing you have a pretty thick drawbar. A rule of thumb is the thicker the drawbar, the looser the pin fit on solid equipment hitches (some big equipment have hinged tongue ends). The reason is if you pull something through a ditch for instance, the hitch is swinging up and down and the pin needs room to change angles or else the hitch will pry against the pin until something gives. I would stick with the 3/4" pin that your equipment was designed for. Tractor pulled equipment usually work fine with some slop.

[GE222]

Always use the largest pin possible within reason. Hitch flexing will always be present and the pin shouldn't bind. If the implement is only used occasionally a smaller pin should be fine. Excess play is more apparent on very large farm implements, which will also affect handling when driven on the road. A large 1000 bushel grain cart is a good example where a tight pin is necessary.

[greg_g]

I'm not in agreement with the "hitch movement" concept either. Use the right sized pin for the smaller hole, then use bushings to make up the difference in the larger hole

//greg//

[SPYDERLK]

I'm not in agreement with the "hitch movement" concept either. Use the right sized pin for the smaller hole, then use bushings to make up the difference in the larger hole

//greg//

Good way to bend or shear the pin.
larry

[greg_g]

Good way to bend or shear the pin.

How Larry? If the pin is not allowed any movement off vertical, it's a straight pull. Using the right sized pin for the hole - or using the correct reducer bushing to properly adapt a pin to an oversized hole - keeps the pin 100% vertical in relation to the hitch. It's when a small pin is being jerked around in a big hole that shearing/bending forces come into play

//greg//

[Raspy]

Something has to give if traveling over very uneven ground, through dips or across roads, etc. Up and down angle differences in the hitch are easily handled by loose fitting pins, not tight ones.

But a fairly smal pin can still handle a strong pull.

On the highway, close tolerances are much more important than at slow tractor speeds in the field.