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  1. #1

    Default Hitch pin size

    I have an attachmnet with holes in the tongue of 3/4-inch. The drawbar has a hole of 1 1/4 -inch. If I get a 3/4-inch hitch pin it seems like this isn't going to pull smoothly when I stop and go. Is there any way to get this to fit better? Thanks.

  2. #2
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    101
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    Wilmington, NC
    Tractor
    Bobcat CT235

    Default Re: Hitch pin size

    Without making a busing from scratch, look around for a short piece of 3/4 thick wall pipe that you can cut to length to act as a bushing. I used 3/4 sch 40 pvc to act as a bushing for a 1" dia. hole. I had to cut a kerf in the bushing so it would colaspe slightly but it works fine, even on heavy pulling.
    Skinnyman
    CT235, 72" Bucket, 48" Open Bottom Grapple

  3. #3
    Silver Member
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    Dec 2007
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    123
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    Thumb of Michigan
    Tractor
    Kubota L3130DT-F

    Default Re: Hitch pin size

    Quote Originally Posted by Skinnyman View Post
    Without making a busing from scratch, look around for a short piece of 3/4 thick wall pipe that you can cut to length to act as a bushing. I used 3/4 sch 40 pvc to act as a bushing for a 1" dia. hole. I had to cut a kerf in the bushing so it would colaspe slightly but it works fine, even on heavy pulling.
    Have done exactly this for a ball hitch on my truck for light-duty short-term fix.

    Bruce
    Kubota L3130DT-F, LA513 FEL, 7'Backblade, 5' TSC Box blade, Woods RM-301 Finish mower + 1975 Gravely 7.6HP with goodies

    "Diagnosis is 80% of the cure." ~ Dr. M. A. Balcerski M.D.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Hitch pin size

    thanks for the info. I'll give it a try

  5. #5
    Silver Member
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    Feb 2011
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    136
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    East Central MN
    Tractor
    Farmall 706 Yanmar 2210D

    Default Re: Hitch pin size

    Quote Originally Posted by Rathpr View Post
    I have an attachmnet with holes in the tongue of 3/4-inch. The drawbar has a hole of 1 1/4 -inch. If I get a 3/4-inch hitch pin it seems like this isn't going to pull smoothly when I stop and go. Is there any way to get this to fit better? Thanks.
    If the hole is 1 1/4" I'm guessing you have a pretty thick drawbar. A rule of thumb is the thicker the drawbar, the looser the pin fit on solid equipment hitches (some big equipment have hinged tongue ends). The reason is if you pull something through a ditch for instance, the hitch is swinging up and down and the pin needs room to change angles or else the hitch will pry against the pin until something gives. I would stick with the 3/4" pin that your equipment was designed for. Tractor pulled equipment usually work fine with some slop.

  6. #6
    Gold Member GE222's Avatar
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    Mar 2009
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    Northern Illinois

    Default Re: Hitch pin size

    Always use the largest pin possible within reason. Hitch flexing will always be present and the pin shouldn't bind. If the implement is only used occasionally a smaller pin should be fine. Excess play is more apparent on very large farm implements, which will also affect handling when driven on the road. A large 1000 bushel grain cart is a good example where a tight pin is necessary.

  7. #7
    Super Member greg_g's Avatar
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    JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket

    Default Re: Hitch pin size

    I'm not in agreement with the "hitch movement" concept either. Use the right sized pin for the smaller hole, then use bushings to make up the difference in the larger hole

    //greg//
    USN (Ret)
    Former Chinese tractor owner (x4)
    Current John Deere owner

  8. #8
    Super Member
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    JD2010, Kubota3450,2550, Mahindra 7520 w FEL w Skid Steer QC w/Tilt Tatch, & BH, BX1500

    Default Re: Hitch pin size

    Quote Originally Posted by greg_g View Post
    I'm not in agreement with the "hitch movement" concept either. Use the right sized pin for the smaller hole, then use bushings to make up the difference in the larger hole

    //greg//
    Good way to bend or shear the pin.
    larry
    This side of 40
    JD2010, Kubota L3450/FEL w SK QC, L2550 w FEL
    Mahindra 7520 [Pinky] /FEL w Skid Steer QC/w Tilt Tatch & BH, BX1500 [Mighty Mouse]
    IH37 Baler, CCM165 Drum Mower, JD Rake
    JD 127 bushog, Flail, SK Tilt Tatch , KK tiller, Rhino rear blade, Post driver, post auger, chipper, pallet fork, Grapple/Loader Buddy, Homemade Splitter/DC Welder

  9. #9
    Super Member greg_g's Avatar
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    JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket

    Default Re: Hitch pin size

    Quote Originally Posted by SPYDERLK View Post
    Good way to bend or shear the pin.
    How Larry? If the pin is not allowed any movement off vertical, it's a straight pull. Using the right sized pin for the hole - or using the correct reducer bushing to properly adapt a pin to an oversized hole - keeps the pin 100% vertical in relation to the hitch. It's when a small pin is being jerked around in a big hole that shearing/bending forces come into play

    //greg//
    USN (Ret)
    Former Chinese tractor owner (x4)
    Current John Deere owner

  10. #10
    Platinum Member Raspy's Avatar
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    NH TC29DA Bolens G14 Skytrac 5028 Dodge Cummins Jeep Rubicon Grizzly 700

    Default Re: Hitch pin size

    Something has to give if traveling over very uneven ground, through dips or across roads, etc. Up and down angle differences in the hitch are easily handled by loose fitting pins, not tight ones.

    But a fairly smal pin can still handle a strong pull.

    On the highway, close tolerances are much more important than at slow tractor speeds in the field.
    John

    I only exaggerate enough to compensate for being taken with a grain of salt.

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