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  1. #1
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    Mar 2011
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    John Deere 4320

    Default Hydraulic float option for Category I hitch

    I have a box scraper attached to a JD 4320. The Cat 1 hitch is power up and gravity down. My responses aren't quick enough-even at slow speeds-to level uneven ground by process of cutting highs and filling lows. A friend helped with a larger commercial machine with Gannon having power up & down. Think there was also a "float" position that evened out the Gannon as the tractor drove over uneven ground. I know there are kits to get hydraulic power to the tractor's rear. My question: is there a hydraulic kit to get my scraper box to "float?"

  2. #2
    Platinum Member
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    Aug 2006
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    Buckhannon, WV
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    1947 Ford 2N and 2003 Kubota B7500

    Default Re: Hydraulic float option for Category I hitch

    It does "float" vertically when lowered completely.
    -=Mark=- 03 Kubota B7500, 47 Ford 2N

  3. #3
    New Member
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    John Deere 4320

    Default Re: Hydraulic float option for Category I hitch

    When fully lowered my box scraper more or less follows the terrain contours it is traversing. That is, it mirrors the original ground contours (undulating) instead of creating a flat plane. I use word "float" to describe the up/down hydraulic pressure that somehow auto balances box's position to tractor.

  4. #4
    Super Member JB4310's Avatar
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    Feb 2005
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    Central CT
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    J.D. 4310 E-hydro

    Default Re: Hydraulic float option for Category I hitch

    Quote Originally Posted by Farmer wannabe View Post
    When fully lowered my box scraper more or less follows the terrain contours it is traversing. That is, it mirrors the original ground contours (undulating) instead of creating a flat plane. I use word "float" to describe the up/down hydraulic pressure that somehow auto balances box's position to tractor.
    Welcome to TBN

    I'm not sure there is an option for what you want.

    I find the box will level uneven ground by just dragging in float (fully dropped) let the box fill up to gain some weight and keep going over the high spots, might have to lower rippers to brake it up. keep pulling it over the low spots. I've had pretty good luck.

    once you get it close put a rake to it, The rake with wheels is the easiest implement to use, you don't even have to look back at it.

    JB.
    JD 4310; E hydro, 300CX, 48 BH, 60" box, 72" rake, 72" rear blade, cast pallet forks, 48", 61"HD & 73" high volume bucket.
    FORD 1700; 2 WD, 2600 hrs.
    JD 320; Hydra lift, 48" deck and 48" snow blade.
    2007 Dodge Ram 3500, Cummins 6.7L, Aisin 6 speed, 9ft utility body.

  5. #5
    Advertiser kennyd's Avatar
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    Westminster, MD
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    John Deere 4110, 455

    Default Re: Hydraulic float option for Category I hitch

    Quote Originally Posted by Farmer wannabe View Post
    When fully lowered my box scraper more or less follows the terrain contours it is traversing.
    Then you need to add weight to the box, and/or adjust the top link shorter so it cuts more.
    KennyD
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  6. #6
    Elite Member gwdixon's Avatar
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    Northern CA

    Default Re: Hydraulic float option for Category I hitch

    What you may be looking for is "draft control" where the 3PH automatically raises and lower in response to the amount of force being applied to the 3PH.

    Some systems adjust by the top link while others use the resistance on the lift arm. I've never had one sensitive enough to self-adjust a box blade to level land. The geometry just doesn't seem to be right for a blade.

    Usually draft control is used with a subsoiler, ditcher, middle buster, or plow to keep the implement from running too deeply.
    2009 Kubota M7040, R1s, LA1153 FEL, fork lift, 3 rear remotes, T&T
    2002 Kubota L48 TLB, 12", 18", 24" HD buckets
    2001 Kubota BX2200, Turf, LA211 FEL
    7.5' Howse 3PT disc, 88" Gearmore 4G4 box scraper, 4' box scraper, Gearmore GB85 blade, LandPride RCR2596 cutter, 6', 4' flail mowers, 6', 4' rototiller, 4' Bush Hog cutter, HD subsoiler, Bearcat 70554 chipper, Bush Hog PHD w/ 12", 6" augers, Ford 101 3-bottom plow, 8' land leveler, 6' rake, lots of misc.

  7. #7
    New Member
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    John Deere 4320

    Default Re: Hydraulic float option for Category I hitch

    All: I appreciate your comments. Guess all I can do is revisit my setup and work on my technique.

  8. #8
    Super Member greg_g's Avatar
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    Dec 2003
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    Western Kentucky
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    JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket

    Default Re: Hydraulic float option for Category I hitch

    Quote Originally Posted by Farmer wannabe View Post
    Guess all I can do is revisit my setup and work on my technique.
    For now anyway. I have a 3720 that came standard with draft control. Before assuming that your 4320 did too, I took a quick look at the website. I was quite surprised to discover it's not spec'd with draft control. It might be worth a call though, to see if it's something that could be retrofitted at the dealer

    //greg//
    USN (Ret)
    Former Chinese tractor owner (x4)
    Current John Deere owner

  9. #9
    Super Member
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    somewhere usa
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    Deere 110tlb, 4520, x749, L130

    Default Re: Hydraulic float option for Category I hitch

    Quote Originally Posted by Farmer wannabe View Post
    I have a box scraper attached to a JD 4320. The Cat 1 hitch is power up and gravity down. My responses aren't quick enough-even at slow speeds-to level uneven ground by process of cutting highs and filling lows. A friend helped with a larger commercial machine with Gannon having power up & down. Think there was also a "float" position that evened out the Gannon as the tractor drove over uneven ground. I know there are kits to get hydraulic power to the tractor's rear. My question: is there a hydraulic kit to get my scraper box to "float?"

    I do alot of boxblade and landplane/grader work with my 4520 which would be the same as your 4320. That said I think you need to slow down your forward speed of travel to a point where you have time to keep the boxblade adjusted. Operating a boxblade and doing it well takes alot of seat time imo. I Have a Gannon and top n tilt and sometimes I have to creep along making adjustments continuously to keep the box where it needs to be. I may stop completely to tweak the position before proceeding. At any rate with seat time you get faster and better at it.

  10. #10

    Default

    I have been using a box blade for 30+ years grading for concrete pours which takes a lot of skill but that comes with a lot of practice, I always set my hydraulic speed as fast as it will go and like one of the others said don't go faster than what you can control.
    After 100 hours or so if you pay close attention to the quality of your work you should get pretty good

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