My Mott F6 Rebuild Thread

[fluggies4]

I re-read the owners manual, and found this about the slotted holes, under the belt tensioning paragraph:
"To install and adjust, first slip the v-belt over the two main pulleys and under the idler pulley. Adjustment for operating fit is made by sliding the cutter unit in the slotted mounting holes of the main frame side plates. The belt should be just loose enough that it can be slipped on or off without forcing. When the spring loaded idler pulley is let down against it, the belt should sag about an inch or so. If the idler pulley is not used, then the cutter unit must be moved ahead to take up the slack in the belt. It should be tightened so that light pressure halfway between the pulleys will cause it to deflect about half an inch. Caution: Never tighten the belt like a fiddle string. Such excessive tension can cause premature bearing failure. Be sure both ends of the cutter unit are in the same position in the slotted mounting holes. Tighten all four nuts securely."

 

[Flatheadyoungin]

a new belt and new spring was one of the best things i did for mine......i just knew a spring didn't wear out.....

 

[LD1]

I re-read the owners manual, and found this about the slotted holes, under the belt tensioning paragraph:
"To install and adjust, first slip the v-belt over the two main pulleys and under the idler pulley. Adjustment for operating fit is made by sliding the cutter unit in the slotted mounting holes of the main frame side plates. The belt should be just loose enough that it can be slipped on or off without forcing. When the spring loaded idler pulley is let down against it, the belt should sag about an inch or so. If the idler pulley is not used, then the cutter unit must be moved ahead to take up the slack in the belt. It should be tightened so that light pressure halfway between the pulleys will cause it to deflect about half an inch. Caution: Never tighten the belt like a fiddle string. Such excessive tension can cause premature bearing failure. Be sure both ends of the cutter unit are in the same position in the slotted mounting holes. Tighten all four nuts securely."

I will try this and see if it helps.

If you zoom in in the one pic, you can see that the tensioner is causing WAY more than the 1" recomended deflection On top of that, it causes the spring to have less tension.

I will move the cutter forward to take up slack in the belt, this will also cause the tensioner to have more spring pressure:thumbsup:

I wont get a chance to do anything til probabally thursday. (working 6A-6P sucks). But hopefully I will have the new driveshaft by then as well jsut to rule that out:thumbsup:

 

[leonz]

Sorry and many apologies as I misunderstood about the slotted holes I did not see them in the photos. "Colossal whoopsie" on my part.

The rotor on my flail mower is stationary/bolted in place with a V belt tensioner.

The V belts a a goner for sure now that I look more closely :^0