Rear Wheel Weights on Kubota L4610HSTC

   / Rear Wheel Weights on Kubota L4610HSTC #1  

patrickg

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2001
Messages
1,390
Location
South Central Oklahoma
Tractor
Kubota Grand L4610HSTC
So I say to the dealer,"What happens if I only put one or two of the maximum number of weights (3 per wheel) on and then drive at max speed on the road?" "Will it bounce up and down from the imballance?"

They tell me probably not as the weights are too close to the axle and don't generate much centrifugal force. Finally the weights arrive and are installed. Each weighs 55lbs so that adds 330 lbs to the rear axle but none of it actually carried by the axle.

The weights are circular and "nest" on top of each other concentric to the axle so 1, 2, or 3 weights makes no difference regarding rotational ballance. At least they didn't laugh in my face.
Sure helps with FEL work without interference with close in manuevering (light duty FEL and Pallet fork work).

I find that I still need something on the 3PH to be able to lift a full bucket on FEL but now the box blade, in concert with the weights, makes it much more stable when maxing out FEL effort. Even with industrials instead of ags I get improved traction for pulling a full box blade with scarifiers lowered. Of course you still must use 4wd but get a bit less wheel slip and maybe have to put your heel on the diff lock a bit less.

Not sure of the exact cost with shipping since they came out to my place and installed them, promising to send the bill later.

Had them for over a week and recommend the improvement. I anticipate a downside of difficulty of taking on and off so will avoid it as much as possible. Will slightly worsen rutting in soft ground.

Patrick
 
   / Rear Wheel Weights on Kubota L4610HSTC #2  
I saw the same thing with the high density foam. I'm guessing the foam added at least 500lbs and probably more to the tires on my L3710. Like you said, it made a difference in the loader work. I still like a heavy implement on the 3 pt for stability.

I've been able to cheat and lift heavier loads than I should have. I had to get a skid mount Sullair air compressor off a flat bed trailer and by rocking the forks from front to back (side to side on the compressor) I was able to get the machine off the deck by simultaneously lifting while rocking

Not something I'd like to do every day. Even with something on the 3 pt and the loaded tires, the tractor felt light. Needless to say, I didn't travel with that load. We pulled the trailer out from underneath the compressor and sat the compressor on the ground.

Without the extra weight, it wouldn't have been possible.
 
   / Rear Wheel Weights on Kubota L4610HSTC #3  
I attempted to do similar going a different route and I like it OK.
I use my L4610 to mow the lawn with, so did not want to put water in tires as I have on the other tractors.

Attached is inside picture of 55 gal drum we took to the concrete plant & left till they had some leftover concrete to get rid of.

Next picture will show finish product.
 

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   / Rear Wheel Weights on Kubota L4610HSTC #4  
Sometimes use implements, such as the 286 Bush Hog brush cutter but if I don't need it or want to get in tight places, the barrel of concrete is nice. I think it weighs about 1000 lb.

With my 20/20 hind sight, I wish I had added a trailer hitch on it before pouring the conrete so I could pull the dump truck to the field with a tow bar. I am thinking I will add one anyway.

This picture shows it mounted to the tractor, so it only projects about 1/2 of barrel behind the tractor.
 

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   / Rear Wheel Weights on Kubota L4610HSTC
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Darren, Thanks for sharing the overloading lifting rocking while lifting trick. I almost wish I didn't know since I already scare myself with some extreme tractoring. I really don't like it when I get mytself in a situation where I'm almost afraid to lean forward in the cab for fear of having the rear wheels come off the ground. I've had to jam the joy stick forward to get an EMERGENCY LOWERING of the pallet forks a couple times with both wheels on one side in the air (on almost level ground). Bundles of T-posts with 200/bundle.

Maybe everyone here already knows this but here goes, just in case: when turning the steering all the way to one side the suspension geometry shifts significantly (at least with my Kubota L4610) and with a heavy (near max) load on the pallet forks the lateral (roll) resistance is significantly reduced and you invite a roll over.

I now know to follow the advice to carry a load low to the ground. This does a couple things to enhance safety: 1. keeps CG lower and 2. you don't have far to lower the load to get the forks on the ground and regain stability to stop an incipient rollover event. I try to never take my hand off the FEL joy stick with a load in the air.

I really like my tractor but I have depended too much on luck to carry me through where skill was lacking and experience was way too thin. I guess the trick is to survive long enough to gain enough experience to know what to avoid.

About the foam fill... It is way more expensive than wheel weights and it gets thrown out with the worn out tires BUT I may get the low density fill (softer ride) to avoid ever having a flat tire again even though it is pricey.

Thanks again for your response,

Patrick
 
   / Rear Wheel Weights on Kubota L4610HSTC #6  
Absolutely right, of course, Patrick, but do you mean there may be someone who hasn't learned the same way you (and I) did?/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif It sure can get exciting in a hurry, can't it?/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif
 
   / Rear Wheel Weights on Kubota L4610HSTC
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Hey Neal, Thanks for the pix. I had heard about doing that but never saw one. I too am afflicted by the 20-20 hindsight syndrome. I have a carryall that will handle 1000lbs so thought I might put a drum on it but everythinig is a trade-off. The carryall could be convenient but getting 1000lbs on and off isn't trivial. I guess you pays your money and takes your chances (choices?)

Ahh, I can recall when my tractor shined like that. Curious... what is hooked up to the rear remotes? Looks like several hydraulic lines connected back there.

What implement do you use to mow your yard? I had sort of threatened to only permit landscaping (shape of dirt AND what grows in it) at our new house that will allow doing all yard work with a brush hog (at least my part). I may relent (somewhat) if I find a bargain to do a neater mowing job using the L4610. I briefly looked at a couple finish mowers and found the 6 ft over $1000 more than a 5 ft and since I wouldn't accept a 5 ft, have nothing but a brush hog and a sickle bar as mowing options.

P.S. New house currently consists of a lot of stirred dirt and a 4 ft wide 8 ft deep ditch growing daily toward 200+ ft in length. Slow going as some of the silt stone ("soft" sand stone is hard to dig with trackhoe.) I'mgoing down after the sun comes up to weaken the rock shelf at the 6-7 ft level with a jack hammer. Would prefer a 2 ft wide trench but localy available equipment with 2 ft bucket can't "dig it." I'm reminded of the swamp draining vs alligator fighting problem.

Getting light out. Gota suit up and go attack the rock monsters.

Thanks again for the pix and comments,

Patrick
 
   / Rear Wheel Weights on Kubota L4610HSTC #8  
<font color=blue>P.S. New house currently consists of a lot of stirred dirt and a 4 ft wide 8 ft deep ditch growing daily toward 200+ ft in length.</font color=blue>

Patrick,

I can't see your ditch, and someone with more experience might want to comment...

BUT that ratio of height to width sounds like it could be a bad thing to be in.

Be very careful, a cave in can happen suddenly. Every once in a while there is a report of someone getting hurt (or worse) by a ditch that is not shored up...

Maybe this doesn't apply to your situation at all. But 8 feet deep and only 4 feet wide started a flag waving in my mind!

Bill in Pgh, PA
 
   / Rear Wheel Weights on Kubota L4610HSTC #9  
I should have clarified the "rocking." It's an alternative movement of the bucket/forks while simultaneously lifting or lowering the load. With the tips of the forks on the trailer you're only picking up one side of the load (the one closest to the tractor). Then by simultaneously lowering the boom and rolling the forks back you can get a few inches.

That was enough clearance to pull the trailer out. The tractor doesn't move from the initial pick to setting the load on the ground.


Depending on the tires you may be able to get them recapped even if they're loaded. I checked on getting loaded tires off a Cat loader capped once and supposedly it can be done. Few shops have the capability though.

You might be surprised at what your options are. The dealer where I bought the tractor had it done and just added his cost to the tractor price. Wasn't cheap but I've run that tractor everywhere without worrying about punctures and that much extra weight makes a big difference.

At the dealer's one of the mechanics was rolling one of the rear tires across the shop when it got out of control. He ended up pinned in a corner by the tire. It took two guys to get it off him.I'm hoping those tires never have to come off.
 
   / Rear Wheel Weights on Kubota L4610HSTC #10  
Thats one of the good things about cameras & pictures. It shows what they used to look like. My tractor turned over 400 hrs today while I was loading brush. Doesn't take long in the woods or trying to cut back the fence row to get those scratches. Hate to see them, but work is the reason we bought it.

Well, I am mowing my lawn with my kids inheritance. I purchased a new 7' rear discharge First Choice finish mower in 2002 just because I wanted it. I will attach a picture. Up until that time I had been using a 6' side discharge Bush Hog finish mower. I havn't sold it yet but probably will. No need for two & it is taking up space.

If you wanted a barrel of concrete on the carryall, How about putting an I bolt out the top of the concrete, store it under a big tree with a comealong to lift it & back in under.

I have built some implements for the front loader that require additional hydraulics, so I mounted 2 sets of quick disconnects above the loader disconnects & ran hoses from them, to the rear remote quick disconnects & leave them connected all time except when I need rear remotes, then just unplug & use the rear.

Sounds like you are going about the new house in a first class manner. I can't picture having to do so much dirt work.Oh, I forgot, you are an engineer. You know what you need.
Keep us posted on the new house.
 

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