square baler knotter problems

[Pusto]

I have a New Holland square baler 275, which is about forty years old or so.
I am having problems with the knotter, specifically, the knotter leaves short pieces of baling twine on top of the bales of hay, one for each twine. It will bale a few bales ok, with the little pieces of twine, but then it will foul the knotter and I have to stop to clear it. Any ideas?

 

[SPYDERLK]

Sounds like the twine cutters are dull. They should cut as the knot is pulled from the bill. If youre using plastic twine, a switch to sisal should improve it. Sharpening the cutters should be easy as well.
larry

 

[Pusto]

Thanks, SPYDERLK, for your quick response. I will attempt to sharpen the twine cutters, which sounds like a good solution to the problem, since the general appearance of the knots on the bales is ragged. I am using sisal twine, 9000. I have owned this baler for about a month, and it seems to be in really good shape...barn kept, one owner, etc. I am baling grass that usually is four or five feet tall this time of year, but now I am ending up with stemmy winter grass and old thatch.We are in drought conditions here in South Texas, and more is on the way. I think that the density and weight of the bales must vary according to the condition of the hay being baled. The farmer who owned the baler before me must have liked seventy pound bales, since he had the screws down tight. What about the relationship between the twine holder tension spring and the density of the bales? Does that have any bearing? Thanks for your help.

 

[zzvyb6]

If the twine cutter blades are rivetted onto the wiper arms, grind them off and replace with bolts and prevailing torque nuts. You may have to pull the arms out of the knotter frame to do this, but its worth the time. Check the wiper arm balls to make sure they freely rotate while you are at it.

Twine holder tension may be the cause of your problem. If it's too tight, the twine is weakened by the fitment. It would be tighter if there had been plastic twine used previously. Your manual should give you specs for twine box and twine holder pull out tension adjustments for both types of twine.

Bale density is regulated by feed rate, hay resistor condition and clamping force settings on the bale case cranks. All the twine holder does is conatin the knot ends until the billhook completes the knot.

 

[RickB]

I agree that sharp twine knives would probably cure your problem. But be aware that a 1.5" or so length of twine is ALWAYS the product of a functional Deering-style knotter. The bits of twine in and of themselves are completely normal. They should flow through the knotter and ride out of the bale chamber on the bale, next to the knot.

 

[Pusto]

You say the short pieces of twine left after each knot is tied is normal. I have had some of these little pieces get stuck in the twine disc, where it apparently produced a fouled knotter with a long (48" or so) piece of twine hanging off of it. The bale produced only had one twine, with the other piece of twine fouled in the twine disc and bill hook. I think my problem might be a combination of factors, such as bales too light, twine holder tension spring too tight, and who knows what? The material I have been baling is very dry and perhaps the bales are too loose. Thanks in advance.

 

[bmuzzeysr]

new holland square baler will not make a full revolution without breaking the shear pin for some reasoonthe knotter bar is not staying back all the way and its stopping the packer ram from making the necessary revolution. any body had this problem and know how the fix it ?

 

[RickB]

Choose Items

You have a knotter timing or needle latch adjustment problem, most likely. Follow the link and buy/download an operator's manual for your baler so you can troubleshoot & repair it yourself. A manual will be the best money you spend on your baler since you purchased the machine.

 

[bjr]

That darned needle basket brake can also cause problems. I've been on both side of the brake adjustment. Too loose and the cage drops down putting the main blocking lug into play and too tight the shear pin pops. I've had all the above symptoms on the knotters and still trying to sort out the issues. My next effort is to pull the plunger and replace bearings and get the hay knifes adjusted. That is this winter project. Oh yeah My machine is a very worn NH 269 that was really heading for the scrape pile and I tried to resurrect. bjr

 

[RickB]

That darned needle basket brake can also cause problems. I've been on both side of the brake adjustment. Too loose and the cage drops down putting the main blocking lug into play and too tight the shear pin pops. I've had all the above symptoms on the knotters and still trying to sort out the issues. My next effort is to pull the plunger and replace bearings and get the hay knifes adjusted. That is this winter project. Oh yeah My machine is a very worn NH 269 that was really heading for the scrape pile and I tried to resurrect. bjr

Having the knotter 'home' position properly set alleviates 99% of the knotter brake problems. When 'home' is correct, extra brake pressure isn't necessary.