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  1. #11
    Platinum Member KYDan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Frankfort, KY
    Kubota MX5100 HST 4WD

    Default Re: Box blade vs rear blade+front teeth

    I have both and seldom use the scraper blade, as previously posted the box blade is a far better tool for scraping, transport, and leveling of dirt. For digging a toothbar is a must for the FEL bucket. If you want to back drag get a flat toothbar, they are nearly as stout as the standard, but on a small tractor with a 4' bucket they will work pretty good. larger than that you will break a lot of teeth off. I have both for my 6' bucket and hardly every use the flat bar as it is too fragile for a large bucket. Since you are talking about some acreage that you want to renovate a rollover box blade would be very useful and weight makes a huge difference in blade capability. Dirt Dog makes a heavy rollover blade, I have one and love it, the 6' RO box blade weighs in about 800 lbs. Research what you want to do now and in the future and what will you do with the tractor and implements once you have finished this project? Good luck.

  2. #12
    Super Star Member Gary Fowler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Bismarck Arkansas
    2009 Kubota RTV 900, 2009 Kubota B26 TLB & 2010 model LS P7010

    Default Re: Box blade vs rear blade+front teeth

    Unless you have very loose sandy soil, you will need a box blade with scarifier teeth to loosen up the soil and drag it to lower areas. It is very hard for a small tractor to dig with a FEL effectively without dips and humps. It takes a lot of finesse with the FEl controls to keep it nice and level. You will either be scrapping along or digging in deep to the point of stalling they tractor.
    Forget the straight blade and get a heavy duty box blade if you want to move dirt. With a little coordination, you can scarify and drag some dirt with the box, pick up a load with the FEL all at the same time doubling your dirt movement.
    2010 LS P-7010C 20F/20R gear tractor & FEL, 2009 Kubota B 26 TLB, RTV 900 Kubota,17 foot Lund boat with 70HP motor, 2012-20 ft 12k GVW trailer, 2011- 52" Craftsman ZTR mower, 2013 Ferris Zero Turn, 3 weed whackers, pressure washer, leaf blowers, 7 foot bush hog, 8 foot landscape rake , 8 foot 3 PH disc, 2 row cultivator, 350 amp Miller AC/DC welding machine and all the tools needed to keep them all repaired and running.

  3. #13
    Veteran Member troutsqueezer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Pilot Hill, CA.
    Kubota B21

    Default Re: Box blade vs rear blade+front teeth

    Box blade without question, it can move dirt from here to there much better than a scraper blade.

    I have both BB and Land Pride scraper blade and also have a tooth bar. It is very handy to use the tooth bar to do some slight ripping while at the same time dropping the BB (or blade) to pick up and smooth the area all in one pass. As mentioned before, the blade is good for ditching alongside the roadways and is better for smoothing washboards when placed at an angle. Because it is not parallel to the washboarding, the blade does not drop into the washboard dips as the BB tends to do (depending on the BB setting).

    To smooth the ground using a bucket w/teeth, just angle the bucket up and use the rear of the bucket, not the front.
    - Dennis

    Once you see the bandwagon, it's too late.

  4. #14
    Veteran Member PhysAssist's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Upstate NY- see the BIG lake- look just below it...
    Kubota B2320

    Default Re: Box blade vs rear blade+front teeth

    Quote Originally Posted by gwiley View Post
    I built a box blade for my bobcat skid steer to use for leveling gravel driveway and cleared pasture and i really like it. It seems to do a good job of filling low spots without me having to spend much time worrying over them. I have used a rear blade on a tractor before and found that it took a lot more work to level the freshly cleared land.
    I forgot to add that our Gannon Roll-Over Boxblade has been an absolute joy to work with, with a very short learning curve.

    I think because the front and back-facing blades and scarifiers are deployed singly and without interference from each other, it is easier to get it to do what you want it to.

    The scarifiers and front facing blade are great for loosening and then moving any substrate, whether dirt [clay, sand, hard pack], or [packed] gravel, and then rotating it to the back-facing blade and pulling forward smooths and levels any remaining uneveness.

    We use our BXpanded Pirhana Toothbar in conjunction with the box blade to get a great finish to our grading efforts.


  5. #15
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Kubota L3830, Ford Golden Jubilee, 1939 Sears Economy, Polaris Ranger 400, Honda Foreman 450 ES, 2004 Dodge Diesel 3500

    Default Re: Box blade vs rear blade+front teeth

    Quote Originally Posted by johnandcaren View Post
    OK, I'm a newbee and about to purchase a compact tractor, either kubota B series or New Holland Boomer.

    Anyway, dealer is telling me not to get a box blade, but that I'll be much better off with a rear blade for smoothing and to use the tooth add on to the FEL.

    Good idea or bad idea.

    Purpose: I need to level out about 3 acres that is rolling (not dramatically) plus do some drainage / ditch work.

    Tks for comments.
    Get the box blade for the leveling. They are excellent attachments for leveling and moving dirt.

    Get the tooth bar for the loader. Makes it dig in dirt easier. Don't get it if you need to smooth dirt... or you can just take it off.

    The grader blade is handy for ditching driveways, etc because you can angle and tilt. I have both the box and blade. I use the box all the time. And the blade occassionally.

    So... if you don't want to buy both.... buy the box and tooth bar first. If you still need a blade, then buy it.

  6. #16
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Middleburg Fl
    Kioti CK30, Kioti DK45hst

    Default Re: Box blade vs rear blade+front teeth

    I have both a front end loader with a tooth bar attached and a boxblade. I usually remove my toothbar when doing strictly dirt work as the toothbar does not allow the best use of the front bucket. The toothbar is most efficient for digging or moving brush for grts in the way when trying to grade or level dirt.

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