Carryall for your carryall ...

[wrooster]

After the 87th time needing some random tool/item while out and about on the tractor, I decided to build a carryall for my carryall. My goal was also to make it detachable so that if I didn't need it, it could be left. I finally settled on the approach shown below.

Note that an interesting side effect of this approach is that the carryall box can in fact be attached either towards the back or the front. However, on smaller tractors such as my BX, be aware that depending on how deep you make the box it may hit the ROPS (etc) when the TPH is at it's highest position.

The attached pictures should tell the rest of the story.

n.b.
Note that the carryall box can be stored practically any place there is a horizontal 2x4. I would have put up a piece of scrap on the shed wall and taken a picture for you folks, but the dinner bell rang and I simply looped it over a saw horse and said goodnight.

Regards,
Wrooster

ps:
my original carryall writeup is here:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/200169-carry-all-project-number-872-a.html

 

[wrooster]

continued...

 

[moored4]

Yes! We got the Picture!! :laughing: Nice little addition to your carry all! :thumbsup: Good wright up all so and Thanks for sharing!

 

[CompactTractorFan]

Neat idea! I might have to copy...:thumbsup:

 

[Runner]

Nice work!

It's great to have a place for small tools and other junk that is separate from the main load floor. Good place for your chain saw when you're carrying brush/logs below.

 

[looknlearn]

Nice. You just gave me an idea for putting a temporary tool box on my tractor. "Hook it on on the frame." (the tractor is a '53 with no sheet metal)


I like the photo documenting....as they say" a picture is worth a thousand words. You have got quite a few thousand there.:thumbsup:

 

[JC-jetro]

great idea and nice workmanship, might use it for flower box as well

 

[Gordon Gould]

I really like the easy on - easy off concept. Good idea :thumbsup:

 

[JB4310]

I agree with with everyone else, Great idea, but heavier than it needs to be, could of made it out of 1X boards or 3/4 plywood. make it a little lighter, easier to put on and off if loaded with tools. Still a great attachment to an attachment

JB

 

[wrooster]

I agree with with everyone else, Great idea, but heavier than it needs to be, could of made it out of 1X boards or 3/4 plywood. make it a little lighter, easier to put on and off if loaded with tools. Still a great attachment to an attachment JB

With the cantilever approach I took the box has to be quite robust, otherwise the first bump with a set of tools in the box will result in structural failure. If you use 1x6 pine for the side panels I think you will have to change the design. Do you have an approach in mind using 1x pine, or 3/4" plywood?

The way I joined the side panels to the front and back pieces was a tradeoff. In general, with such a short length of wood (especially hem-fir) you would never put big lag bolts into the end grain at both ends -- doing so is a recipe for splitting the wood lengthwise. But for this application it is the strongest way to do it, as you are pulling on the end grain; this is in contrast to lagging the side panels to the ends of the front and back pieces, where the weight in the box wants to "twist" the side panels. (And this is primary the reason why 1x6 pine will not work in a cantilevered design -- that twisting under load will quickly crack the pine).

Nevertheless, I confess to *really* liking scrap wood projects. Any time I have a scrap length of ANYTHING left over I try to devise a project around it. :licking:

Regards,
Wrooster

 

[JB4310]

With the cantilever approach I took the box has to be quite robust, otherwise the first bump with a set of tools in the box will result in structural failure. If you use 1x6 pine for the side panels I think you will have to change the design. Do you have an approach in mind using 1x pine, or 3/4" plywood?


Nevertheless, I confess to *really* liking scrap wood projects. Any time I have a scrap length of ANYTHING left over I try to devise a project around it. :licking:

Regards,
Wrooster

No I didn't give it much thought, if you did it with left overs, even better

I once made a carpenter's tool box so big/HD, once filled it took 2 people to carry it :ashamed:

JB.

 

[bigdad]

The Dollies are pretty handy aren't they!

 

[jefwyn]

Carry all's come in handy. Sometimes I need the four wheeler out in the woods, so I can get to spots I can't get with the tractor. It's only about 3/10 of a mile walk, but I'm to lazy for that.
I like the carryall for the carryall, I may have to steel it too.

 

[My Hoe]

With the cantilever approach I took the box has to be quite robust, otherwise the first bump with a set of tools in the box will result in structural failure. If you use 1x6 pine for the side panels I think you will have to change the design. Do you have an approach in mind using 1x pine, or 3/4" plywood?

The way I joined the side panels to the front and back pieces was a tradeoff. In general, with such a short length of wood (especially hem-fir) you would never put big lag bolts into the end grain at both ends -- doing so is a recipe for splitting the wood lengthwise. But for this application it is the strongest way to do it, as you are pulling on the end grain; this is in contrast to lagging the side panels to the ends of the front and back pieces, where the weight in the box wants to "twist" the side panels. (And this is primary the reason why 1x6 pine will not work in a cantilevered design -- that twisting under load will quickly crack the pine).

Nevertheless, I confess to *really* liking scrap wood projects. Any time I have a scrap length of ANYTHING left over I try to devise a project around it. :licking:

Regards,
Wrooster

Great design, with the "slip on" hooks/brackets and your "cantilever approach.".

Also, kudos for your BEAUTIFUL shop, stone patio, stone wall and house/property! (I'm guessing you did the stone work yourself?)

And I think I follow your engineering/design reasoning (above) but, not being a woodworker, I'm puzzled by one thing:

Why did you made the countersink wells so deep, for your lag bolts? I would have thought just countersinking them enough so that the bolt heads were flush with the sides would have been sufficient, and that additional countersinking would take away some of the strength inherent in your design?

And I can't tell from the pics (or my reading glasses? LOL) but did you through-bolt the end-pieces, where you did the countersinking (using "ready-rod/all-thread" etc...) or did you use lag bolts at those locations?

Just trying to learn here--one day, I HOPE to be as organized as you obviously are! LOL

My Hoe