How far can you extend a PTO shaft?
- Thread starter North Country
- Start date
OP
North Country
Gold Member
Bingo! That's it! And those prices look much better than $250 for a new one with slip clutch. I'll measure later this week and find out which series I have and make sure I can dismount the shaft from the clutch with a punch.
Thanks for all the help - this has been great!
foggy1111
Elite Member
"In the good ole days" there was primarilly ONE kind of pto shaft design to slide together: Square. It was much easier to fit male and female ends together....pretty much measure the size and fit em....your done. Now, it seems there are so many styles that nobody keeps parts on hand....and its hard to determine design a from b. I'm not sure all these proprietary designs are a good thing. Just sayin. 
(of course the old design would in no-way handle the kinds of torque and such we have now.)
(of course the old design would in no-way handle the kinds of torque and such we have now.
)Spudland_Dave
Veteran Member
No prob!
I've only helped do it once and a Hydraulic Shop Press was used as they fit EXTREMELY tight..years of rust and such probably doesnt help in the disassembly process.
Might also help to heat up the yoke a little...and when re-assembling, put the shaft in your freezer overnight, and heat up the yoke...then dont mess around and drive her home.
RoyJackson
Rest in Peace
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2001
- Messages
- 24,890
- Location
- Bethel, Vermont
- Tractor
- John Deere 4052R Cab,, Deere 855D UTV, Z920A Zero Turn Mower and assorted implements
Also, if you buy adapters and hook them together, consider that they may be tight to start out, but after a year's use, they may get loose and woobly. You have to think ahead to when the coupling becomes a little worn with more slop. Just sayin'. . . .
Problem is, they're a bit loose and wobbly to start off with...
radman1
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2006
- Messages
- 3,017
- Location
- midwest
- Tractor
- JD 4520, Toolcat 5610, Bobcat S300, Case-IH 125 Pro, Case-IH 245, IH 1086, IH 806
TSC does have extensions that are 6 spline female to 6 spline male. They may not have had them in stock but I have used them before. The ones in stock usually use a 5/16" pin to hold them on. However, TSC can order ones with the slip collar if the shaft you are adding them to does not allow the 5/16" pin. The slip collar ones cost much more.
davesalisbury
Member
Hi all-
Also posted under:
Re: How much PTO shaft overlap is safe - slightly different issue, but apparently should be part of this overall discussion :ashamed:.
Long story for setup...
I have about 3 acres of "non lawn" that I'd like to hit about 2X per year. Just hitting it with a bush hog means it looks ropy (it gets pretty tall). I found a sickle bar mower (one of the old IH models with a rear wheel and a bar across the front, apparently designed for a Farmall-type mount) for $DIRT cheap (everything looks good so it should work), took the bar off, put on 3PH pins, bolted a chain on to lift the top and it works with my quick hitch (as an aside, HOW did I EVER live without the QH?). This would allow less frequent cuts, yet leave the field looking a little better (before anybody asks, nobody seems to want to simply mow it in exchange for taking the hay that I could find).
Unfortunately, the PTO as designed is too short to reach on my B2630 (even without the quick hitch). Each 1/2 of the shaft is about 9.5 inches (13 inches after a minimum safe overlap), and the reach now needs to be more like 39 inches. The shaft pieces are rectangular, with the big side being 1 1/4" by 1 3/8", and the smaller side being 1" X 1 1/8".
I have two ideas...
First is to simply buy a longer "big side" (enough to overlap by 6" leaving 3 1/2" for slack) and swap out the bigger side. Would probably need a machinist (I could probably do this but lack the tools). This would make the overlap asymetrical, so I guess that's question 1. Would this be acceptable/safe?
Second is a bit more complicated, but should mean a more symmetrical overlap if I'm thinking right. Buy a tube the size of the big tube, then let it overlap the smaller tube by 6 inches). Buy a tube the size of the smaller tube, then have that welded that to the "new" big tube after overlapping 6 inches inside that. It'd then stick into the "old" big tube by at least 6 inches. In essence, there'd be two overlap points rather than a single one. This way I have the mower in original condition should one of those old IH Farmall types want to buy it for a price that'd let me get a regular 3PH mowerlaughing. Is there anything inherently dumb about this idea (besides the resale plan - which is _really_ just kidding)?
As always, good ideas, ill-informed speculation and evaluation of my ideas are welcome and indeed encouraged.
Best,
Dave
Also posted under:
Re: How much PTO shaft overlap is safe - slightly different issue, but apparently should be part of this overall discussion :ashamed:.
Long story for setup...
I have about 3 acres of "non lawn" that I'd like to hit about 2X per year. Just hitting it with a bush hog means it looks ropy (it gets pretty tall). I found a sickle bar mower (one of the old IH models with a rear wheel and a bar across the front, apparently designed for a Farmall-type mount) for $DIRT cheap (everything looks good so it should work), took the bar off, put on 3PH pins, bolted a chain on to lift the top and it works with my quick hitch (as an aside, HOW did I EVER live without the QH?). This would allow less frequent cuts, yet leave the field looking a little better (before anybody asks, nobody seems to want to simply mow it in exchange for taking the hay that I could find
).Unfortunately, the PTO as designed is too short to reach on my B2630 (even without the quick hitch). Each 1/2 of the shaft is about 9.5 inches (13 inches after a minimum safe overlap), and the reach now needs to be more like 39 inches. The shaft pieces are rectangular, with the big side being 1 1/4" by 1 3/8", and the smaller side being 1" X 1 1/8".
I have two ideas...
First is to simply buy a longer "big side" (enough to overlap by 6" leaving 3 1/2" for slack) and swap out the bigger side. Would probably need a machinist (I could probably do this but lack the tools). This would make the overlap asymetrical, so I guess that's question 1. Would this be acceptable/safe?
Second is a bit more complicated, but should mean a more symmetrical overlap if I'm thinking right. Buy a tube the size of the big tube, then let it overlap the smaller tube by 6 inches). Buy a tube the size of the smaller tube, then have that welded that to the "new" big tube after overlapping 6 inches inside that. It'd then stick into the "old" big tube by at least 6 inches. In essence, there'd be two overlap points rather than a single one. This way I have the mower in original condition should one of those old IH Farmall types want to buy it for a price that'd let me get a regular 3PH mower
laughing. Is there anything inherently dumb about this idea (besides the resale plan - which is _really_ just kidding)? As always, good ideas, ill-informed speculation and evaluation of my ideas are welcome and indeed encouraged.
Best,
Dave