Rotary Cutter Ideas on getting nut on...

   / Ideas on getting nut on... #1  

mlformula95

New member
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Jun 22, 2011
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9
Tractor
Kubota B3300
Have a Taylor way rotary cutter.

Trying to get the blade assembly/stump jumper back on the gearbox shaft.

Problem is the nut will not go far enough on the shaft to get the cotter pin on. I'm about 1/2 inch short. I was thinking I could grind the grooves in the castle nut further down, but then I would be into the threads of the nut, and am worried it would damage it.

I've tried to jack the assembly up to the mower deck, but it just won't seat any further. I'm wondering if this is supposed to be pressed on or heated, but could it damage the seals inside the gearbox if I throw a torch on it?

Surely people change the blades on these things and just muscle them back on. I got the nut and cotter pin assembly from King Kutter, using the part number from the owners manual, but it does look taller then necessary, maybe just try to find a shorter nut?

I'm open for any suggestion at this point, thanks in advance.
 
   / Ideas on getting nut on... #2  
Have a Taylor way rotary cutter.

Trying to get the blade assembly/stump jumper back on the gearbox shaft.

Problem is the nut will not go far enough on the shaft to get the cotter pin on. I'm about 1/2 inch short. I was thinking I could grind the grooves in the castle nut further down, but then I would be into the threads of the nut, and am worried it would damage it.

I've tried to jack the assembly up to the mower deck, but it just won't seat any further. I'm wondering if this is supposed to be pressed on or heated, but could it damage the seals inside the gearbox if I throw a torch on it?

Surely people change the blades on these things and just muscle them back on. I got the nut and cotter pin assembly from King Kutter, using the part number from the owners manual, but it does look taller then necessary, maybe just try to find a shorter nut?

I'm open for any suggestion at this point, thanks in advance.

I would NOT apply heat while the stump jumper is already on the output shaft. That's asking for seal problems. If no other option but heating stump jumper, do so with it away from output shaft, then try to install.

I can't get past the part where you're putting a King Kutter part (castle nut) on a Taylor Way mower....Do you still have the ORIGINAL nut? How does the new nut compare (in thickness) to the original KK part?

Are you certain the keyway is lined up? Was the shaft and the mating surface inside of the stump jumper clean of rust/dirt? Did you "dry fit" the nut prior to installing the stump jumper? If so, did it go on far enough to place the cotter pin? (Threads bunged up when removing old nut/stump jumper???) How much force have you applied to the nut? Short wrench?.... Wrench w/cheater?....Big honkin' impact wrench?....

My concern with using a shorter nut would be with the possibility that the stump jumper does in fact need to go on further. Once in use, it could work it's way into place, leaving the nut several turns short of tight.
 
   / Ideas on getting nut on...
  • Thread Starter
#3  
I don't have the original nut. It fell off somewhere in the field, then the stump jumper and blades attached just dropped off the shaft. Luckily the mower wasn't running, I had just turned the pto off and was turning around to get another area when the whole thing just dropped out.

Ordered part from dealer, Nut came in King Cutter package with Taylor way part number on package.

I did dry fit the nut, and it goes on the shaft all the way to top free spinning.
I was using a standard closed/open ended wrench that is fairly large to get on the nut, no cheater bar. I'm not a body builder, but not a weakling either, and I was grunting and groaning and just couldn't get it any tighter.

Don't think I have an impact socket big enough to get on the nut, guess I could go buy one.

Dont really see a key way, just splines on the shaft and in the center of the stump jumper. The unit is relatively new, so no rust to speak of.

The nut part number is also used in the gearbox, guess I could tear it down fair enough to compare the nuts.

I think we agree on the heat, but with the size of the stump jumper and having to lay it on my chest and then get it up to shaft, not real crazy about getting red hot first.
 
   / Ideas on getting nut on... #4  
I don't have the original nut. It fell off somewhere in the field, then the stump jumper and blades attached just dropped off the shaft. Luckily the mower wasn't running, I had just turned the pto off and was turning around to get another area when the whole thing just dropped out.

Ordered part from dealer, Nut came in King Cutter package with Taylor way part number on package.

I did dry fit the nut, and it goes on the shaft all the way to top free spinning.
I was using a standard closed/open ended wrench that is fairly large to get on the nut, no cheater bar. I'm not a body builder, but not a weakling either, and I was grunting and groaning and just couldn't get it any tighter.

Don't think I have an impact socket big enough to get on the nut, guess I could go buy one.

Dont really see a key way, just splines on the shaft and in the center of the stump jumper. The unit is relatively new, so no rust to speak of.

The nut part number is also used in the gearbox, guess I could tear it down fair enough to compare the nuts.

I think we agree on the heat, but with the size of the stump jumper and having to lay it on my chest and then get it up to shaft, not real crazy about getting red hot first.

Why did you not buy one from taylor way? ARe they out of business?

Flip this bushog over with a loader or a chain and a boom pole like i did mine, then you just drop it on the shaft and tighten. Much easier. Mine had a bad seal so there was no oil in it to begin with. If yours has oil, so what if it runs out a little, you can just wash it off, just make sure you do it on the edge of your yard or in a dirt area you dont mind getting oil spilled.
 
   / Ideas on getting nut on... #5  
I can't get past the part where you're putting a King Kutter part (castle nut) on a Taylor Way mower....Do you still have the ORIGINAL nut? How does the new nut compare (in thickness) to the original KK part?

Why did you not buy one from taylor way? ARe they out of business?

King Kutter now owns Taylor Way -- there was a thread on this a few months ago.

Steve
 
   / Ideas on getting nut on... #7  
Long ago I had a problem getting a tapered splined hub all the way together. I can't even remember what it was on.

Finally, I discovered that there was one spline and one groove missing (on purpose). They had to be aligned for the hub to go on all the way.

Bruce
 
   / Ideas on getting nut on...
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Long ago I had a problem getting a tapered splined hub all the way together. I can't even remember what it was on.

Finally, I discovered that there was one spline and one groove missing (on purpose). They had to be aligned for the hub to go on all the way.

Bruce



Thanks, I'll check that out. If it doesn't work out, I'll call King Kutter.

Appreciate the help!
 
 
 
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