Wind Rows!!!!

[ironpen]

I am cutting a kid's soccer field.....about 5 acres....using a Rhino 100 inch finishing mower. It's a rear discharge, 3 blade, solid deck pull behind on the 3 point hitch mower. I am cutting these fields twice per week and at about 1.5 or 1.75 inches height. The fields are bermuda and they are fertilized and have a watering system. They look good when cut, but I am having to go back over them with the mower slightly elevated to knock out all the wind rows of clumped up grass. The blades are new. I am really tired of having to always do them twice. The grass is not really being cut that much since the interval is not long between cuts. Does anyone have any idea of something I could do differently. Is this a problem that occurs more with rear d/c mowers? I don't mind cutting it for the kids, but twice every time is getting a bit old. Thanks to anyone with a suggestion.

 

[bcp]

A short discussion here:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/27203-finishing-mower-windrows.html

Bruce

 

[gwdixon]

You might change the time of day that you mow. Bermuda tends to dry out late in the day and is more easily dispersed or re-cut up under the deck since it is lighter. But I'll bet the kids play later in the day.

The clumping indicates a high moisture content that causes more windrowing.

Also you could time the mowing to before watering rather than after.

Another alternative is to mow three times a week during high growth periods - like after fertilizing. That may not be a viable solution - only you would know.

If all else fails then a finish flail mower is in your future. It is kind of an expensive solution however.

 

[JCByrd24]

In the linked post the pitch of the blades was mentioned, your unit should be set so the blades are pitched forward slightly (the same tip should be 1/4-1/2" lower when in the front compared to when it's rotated around to the back). I've found this to be very helpful advice. Also, I'm not sure where you are, or how often you're mowing (sounds like regularly) but if you are able to mow that often and that short in the middle of summer than in my opinion someone is spending too much on water and fertilizer. I know a soccer field needs to be healthy to repair itself from regular wear, but you might suggest they cut down the watering schedule, and tell you what it is, so you can mow when it's driest.

 

[ironpen]

Thank you both for your replies. The field is watered daily, 30 minutes per zone. Maybe that's too much. It comes on at 8 at night and I usually cut after lunch to allow it to dry out. I can adjust the days to water as needed. So, you think I should cut it back to....how many days per week? Would you lengthen the time per zone? I will also try to lower the front wheels a notch as well. Do you think I should bend the flange that goes all the way across the back of the mower upward so the clippings can shoot out easier? Thanks for the interest!

 

[gwdixon]

You don't mention where you are located so it is difficult to advise much on the watering. If you live in a high humidity area then daily watering is not at all necessary. If the watering is compounded by rain then that has to be factored in.

Here in CA in 10-15% humidity the Bermuda grass gets watered twice a week for about an hour. Bermuda is tough stuff, loves the heat, has deep roots, and is relatively drought tolerant.

If you were able to skip a day or two between waterings and mow after a complete drying you'd be better at avoiding those windrows. At least it is worth the experiment to get the results you want.

A LIGHT fertilizing once a month would be plenty. Even that may be too much.

I know you want the field perfect for the kids (and parents) and it sounds like you have a lot of pride in how nicely it looks. If your adjustments cause some negative issues then the old schedule can always be resumed.

Removing or bending the flange may cause safety or liability issues. I'd try other suggestions first.

The front of the mower should be slightly tilted down, as suggested by JCByrd. To get the same cut you'd have to slightly raise the rear. That may give you the discharge you are looking for.

 

[gwdixon]

Oh, one other suggestion. A golf course on the coast where it is wet and humid all year drags a piece of chain link fence behind their mowers to disperse the clumps. It is not perfect but does help.

The chain link fencing needs to be stretched into a gate-type frame to work properly.

It may be enough for your situation. But DON"T BACK UP!!

 

[ironpen]

Thanks to all who have offered suggestions. I have decided to try watering for 45 minutes per zone on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday nights. I cut the fields on Tuesday afternoon and Friday afternoon. I am also going to raise the rear 1/4 to 1/2 inch compared to the front adjustment and see if I get as smooth a cut....but with less wind rowing. The grass is really thick and beautiful. I have used 200 pounds per acre of 28-0-5 slow release turf fertilizer and applied in mid May and again about 2 weeks ago. I sprayed with roundup in January and February to kill the clover and winter weeds while the bermuda was dormant and then sprayed with Stonewall as a pre-emergent in mid March. This was to control the crabgrass which is endemic here in Alabama. I found out 2 years ago how bad the crabgrass can be!! Last year I used Pendulum pre=emergent but it only lasted 10 to 12 weeks. I then had to spray with MSMA which really yellowed the bermuda for 2 or 3 weeks, but it did recover. I now have a couple of areas that some slightly thicker bladed grass is breaking through, but it is not a running grass like the crabgrass. It is not a large amount and I am afraid to spray it with anything and it doesn't look too bad. Probably no one but me will even notice itsinc it is growing right in the middle of good bermuda. The main thing is no clover, johnson grass, or grass that runs and spreads!! Thanks again to all you gurus. By the way, Talstar P has been absolutely fantastic in controlling the ants, fleas and other critters. Amdro and other powders really didn't cut the mustard on the ants.

 

[Carykong]

You could avoid the windrows by setting your deck height in relationship with the grass heigth. For example, limit cutting only 25% of the grass blade in one session. Going from 3" to 1.5" is agressive and will produce more windrows and a browner finish. So if your burmuda is 3",set your deck for at least a 2" finish or a bit higher. You can always come back in a few days later and finish it a bit lower but avoid reducing your grass height a full 50% in a single mowing session.

 

[gwdixon]

Wow, ironpen, you sure treat the grass area well. It must be gratifying to see the results. With fertilizing 200 lbs/acre twice a year and that much water I'm surprised you don't need a baler.

Not to pry, but is this a volunteer project or contracted? The expense of what you describe must be considerable.

Let us know how your experimenting turns out.