Kevin
I recently bought an old dearborn 2 bottom plow for my B2150. I have never plowed anything, so I sought advice from anyone who had any. The following is a summary of the pointers ( as my feeble memory remembers them ) on plowing that I have gotten from several farmers and farm workers. My plow is 3-point mounted. If you have a pull type, there are probably similar adjustments.
First, the plow rolls the soil over to the right, so you work in counter clockwise circles, or right to left if you have a long narrow field and return to the starting end for each pass. The idea is that the right wheel of the tractor is in the leftmost furrow that you made on the previous pass. This means that the tractor, and therefore the plow, is tilted, and the right side is plowing deeper than the left. The trick is to adjust things so that both bottoms plow to the same depth. On my plow, there is an eccentric device on the right side of the fame that will raise and lower the right side of the plow frame relative to the pins that go into the lifting links on the hitch. It will also swing the rear of the frame right and left to cause the plows to throw the ground over more or less respectivly. Naturally, plowing deeper or throwing it over more make it harder to pull. On my plow, I can use a combination of the eccentric and the adjusting turnbuckles ( you raise of lower one side and leave the other alone )on the lift arms of the hitch to swing the plow right and left, and to get the right amount of tilt so that both blades plow to the same depth with the tractor in the furrow. You will want to adjust the top link so that when you lower the plow to plow depth, the bottom of the plow is running level in the furrow. If not, it will not want to dig in, or it will want do pull in too deep.
When you make your first pass, the right blade will not be plowing to full depth because there is no furrow to run in. You could adjust things level for the first pass and then readjust for the rest of the job, but I have found that running around the field clockwise for the first pass creates a full depth furrow on the perimeter to set your wheel in for the rest of the job.
My tractor has turf tires, but I was able to drag the plow through garden soil covered with a grass cover crop. There was a fair amount of wheel slip, but with liberal use of the diff lock and lifting the plow with the hitch when it bogged down I was able to get the job done. Your tractor is bigger, so you could probably do some serious sod bustin' with no problem.
I think I've hit the key points. Feel free to e-mail me if any of this is confusing.
You may find more at
www.antiquetractors.com
Craig