Boxblade or Scraper Blade?

[greg_g]

Okay, so if what I want to do is move gravel that's blown off to the side of the driveway or cut down the center hump in the driveway and re-contour the surface, fill in the odd pothole, then a scraper blade sounds like the tool I'd want.

You'll be very disappointed.

I predict that - with a conventional scraper blade - you'll tear up the side of the road, and end up scraping in more dirt/grass/weeds than you will errant gravel. That's a job for a landscape rake.

Further, you'll become extremely frustrated watching a conventional scraper blade bounce up and down on the center hump. That's a job for a box blade.

//greg//

 

[massey990]

You'll be very disappointed.

I predict that - with a conventional scraper blade - you'll tear up the side of the road, and end up scraping in more dirt/grass/weeds than you will errant gravel. That's a job for a landscape rake.

Further, you'll become extremely frustrated watching a conventional scraper blade bounce up and down on the center hump. That's a job for a box blade.

//greg//

I agree, If whatever it is you plan on working is already established a good landscape rake will be much more effective (especially on gravel) and will not make more work for you like scrape blades and box blades.
If you have a lot of earth to move the box blade is the ticket.

Regardles of the implement (box blade, rake or scrape blade) a hydraulic top link will make them all more efffective and easier to use.

 

[jimmysisson]

Unlike KU, I like having my heavy Gannon box on the back for snowplowing. I have an old PA truck plow on the loader, but the box is good for pulling away from the barn doors, parked cars, etc. You can push snow with it too, if you're crossways between snowbanks at the end of a driveway. It's heavy, too, to balance the front contraption.
Jim

 

[Jay4200]

Okay, so if what I want to do is move gravel that's blown off to the side of the driveway or cut down the center hump in the driveway and re-contour the surface, fill in the odd pothole, then a scraper blade sounds like the tool I'd want.

Yes. Typical dirt/gravel road maintenance procedure is to run the edge of the road with a blade angled toward the middle, so you are pushing material toward the middle. It digs in better than a rake, so you churn up both dirt and stones and get them mixing. If the road is fairly hard, a rake will just pop out the surface rocks and do nothing else. You then run the crown material back down to shape and groom the road. You can do it all with just a blade, but you are really going to want a rake (with gauge wheels) to finish it off.

Incidentally, gravel that has blown off to the side of the road becomes culvert material. Getting it back onto the drive in any usable fashion is generally impossible.

JayC

 

[magicheater]

You'll be very disappointed.

I predict that - with a conventional scraper blade - you'll tear up the side of the road, and end up scraping in more dirt/grass/weeds than you will errant gravel. That's a job for a landscape rake.

Further, you'll become extremely frustrated watching a conventional scraper blade bounce up and down on the center hump. That's a job for a box blade.

//greg//

I agree, a back blade typically is longer and telegraphs more of the up and down of the front end.

Yes. Typical dirt/gravel road maintenance procedure is to run the edge of the road with a blade angled toward the middle, so you are pushing material toward the middle. It digs in better than a rake, so you churn up both dirt and stones and get them mixing. If the road is fairly hard, a rake will just pop out the surface rocks and do nothing else. You then run the crown material back down to shape and groom the road. You can do it all with just a blade, but you are really going to want a rake (with gauge wheels) to finish it off. Much easier after a rain as well.

Incidentally, gravel that has blown off to the side of the road becomes culvert material. Getting it back onto the drive in any usable fashion is generally impossible. Yup!

JayC

When I was as the same stage as you, I initially bought a box blade because the project I needed to work on was to dig some sediment out of a dried up pond. I use the box blade for several things including ballast, but the main thing I use it for is working on the gravel drive way. For pot hole repair, you really need to put the scarficers down and loosen the rock up some and then smooth it back out. If you just pull some rock onto the pot hole, you will soon have the pot hole back again. You can crown the driveway by lowering one side of the box blade and go down one side and back up the other and it will move the rock toward the center of the drive. The key to using it is understanding that if you lenthen the top link it will not dig as much and will tend to smooth it out. Shortening the top link causes it to dig down so you can move more material. This is where a hydraulic top-link comes in handy.

The first year I had it, I tried using it with the FEL to clear snow. Fortunately we did not get much snow that year as it was not very effective for that. The next summer I found a dealer going out of business who had some rear blades (scrapers) he was getting rid of. I bought one that will angle and tilt. I use it to dig trenches to bury the drain pipe from the down spouts, push the dirt back into the trenches, but mainly to plow snow. This weekend I will probably put it on the back of the tractor an it will stay there all winter.

Unfortunately they are two different tools. Each can somewhat substitute for the other, but not entirely. Therein lies the dilemma If we got no snow, I wouldn't have bought the rear blade but to each their own.

I use a rear blade for snow as well but cut out 2' in length which put the blade much closer to the rear wheels but still allows 2 holes either way of center for angling the snow off to the side.

Okay, so if what I want to do is move gravel that's blown off to the side of the driveway or cut down the center hump in the driveway and re-contour the surface, fill in the odd pothole, then a scraper blade sounds like the tool I'd want.

I am reluctant to steer you either way. Personally after having used both I prefer the box blade but I do have top and tilt on my tractor. I do like the shorter length of the box blade and the dual cutting edges. In the winter I use the rear blade in heavy snow on the big tractor and the box blade on the little one for the quick cleanup jobs. I plan on using a 6' snow blade on both loaders this year but make it compatible Q/A wise. I'll post some pics when I finish that project.

 

[Redneck in training]

I have landscape rake and box blade. I put a "wing" on the box blade for snow cleaning. It increases its width for about 2 ft on one side. After the experience I will add another wing on the other side.

I am also considering attaching a piece of about 2 ft wide conveyor belt or similar material to the rake such a way that it will extend the rake on each side and use it for snow cleaning and scraping mud from concrete in front of the house and the shop.

 

[JB4310]

I have a rear blade and a box blade, the rear blade is indispensable for snow removal especially on hard surfaces. But that's the only thing I use it for. Tried cutting some drainage swales with the rear blade and made such a mess in such a short time.
Put the box scraper on and made perfect smooth level cuts. I always tell people the box scrapper is very "forgiving", as it self levels as it goes, filling low spots and cutting high spots. definitely less skill required for using the box blade IMO.

JB

 

[babzog]

All good thoughts, gentlemen. Please, keep them coming.

When I say "gravel that's blown off to the side", I don't mean much further than 12 - 18" from the wheel ruts.

No rear hydraulics on my 1533 so all adjustments are going to be manually done.

How would the box blade move material from the side to the center seeing as how the blade is straight? I would have thought the blade would have to be angled back in order to move material in that direction. As well, why would the box blade be less likely to skip/bounce over the center hump vs a scraper blade?

 

[IndyIan]

All good thoughts, gentlemen. Please, keep them coming.

When I say "gravel that's blown off to the side", I don't mean much further than 12 - 18" from the wheel ruts.

No rear hydraulics on my 1533 so all adjustments are going to be manually done.

How would the box blade move material from the side to the center seeing as how the blade is straight? I would have thought the blade would have to be angled back in order to move material in that direction. As well, why would the box blade be less likely to skip/bounce over the center hump vs a scraper blade?

I don't think you'd regret having both, especially if you clear snow. My reg duty 7' blade is about 320 lbs. The reg duty 6' box blade I'm getting this weekend is about 520lbs and has steeper blade angles to cut into material, plus the scarifiers to really rip into stuff and shouldn't skip over much I hope.
So with reg duty blades of both types to redo my driveway, I'd rip it up and level with boxblade and crown with the grader blade. If I had a 1000lb+ grader blade then I'd skip the box blade altogether for that job but still need a box blade to move dirt and the scarifiers to rip into turf.
I found a used back blade for half of new, but used box blades seem to go for only $100-150 off of new prices in my area for some reason so I'm getting a new one.

 

[greg_g]

No rear hydraulics on my 1533 so all adjustments are going to be manually done.

We're referring to the hydraulic controls of the rear hitch; position and/or draft

How would the box blade move material from the side to the center seeing as how the blade is straight?

Hence the boxblade/landscape rake combo. Indexed rake brings it in from the edges, boxblade cuts down the center hump. Either one can spread the loosened material

why would the box blade be less likely to skip/bounce over the center hump vs a scraper blade?

Weight and design.

//greg//