Valby 150

[Red Horse]

I have a chance to buy a Valby 150 and the pix look good. I have a JD 3320 that does 25HP PTO. As I burn anything above 3", I'm looking for something that can handle branches below 3" without a lot of trimming and at a good rate. Any opinions out there? From my research so far, I've come to the conclusion that the Valby line is as good as it gets-not a "handy Andy" homeowner chipper.

Appreciate any feedback.

[Gordon Gould]

I agree. Valby is top of the line. Make sure belts, knives, and parts are available.

[Red Horse]

thx for response. I spoke to a guy at the distributor in Spencer, NY. He was very helpfull.

[RoyJackson]

Boy, I wish I could afford a Valby!!!

[Red Horse]

Thx Roy Your post says it all. Guy wanted 2200, I got it for 2000. I figure it is something I can always sell. A 4" chipper around hear goes for 180 bucks for 4 hours! that is 4 hours of meter time. Plus right now, after our big October snow, you can't get one!

[RoyJackson]

Thx Roy Your post says it all. Guy wanted 2200, I got it for 2000. I figure it is something I can always sell. A 4" chipper around hear goes for 180 bucks for 4 hours! that is 4 hours of meter time. Plus right now, after our big October snow, you can't get one!

That's a really good price! Used chipper?

Anyway, post some pics!!

BTW, those Valby chippers tend to be heavier them most of their capacity...make sure you have front ballast or your loader installed.

[Branchchipper]

Nice purchase!
Here are some CH150 tips from a long-time owner, since this machine is new to you...

1. Lock out the flywheel with the fork doohickey (attached by chain nearby), tip up the housing (I detach the discharge chute first, but you don't have to), and check the condition of both knife edges.
While you're there, poke out any debris that has built up in each knife slot (it can eventually affect balance and cut rate), and clean out the bottom half of the flywheel housing if debris have built up there (we made a rigid hose attachment for a shop vac)

2. from the tractor-end of the chipper, check the condition of the drive belts and pullies (just in case they are ragged or debris-packed)

3. Before cranking her up, make sure that no woody debris is laying at the base of the chute, up against the flywheel. A short length of 1/2" branch can jam the wheel at low rpm as you begin to engage the PTO

4. When you are chipping, keep a large set of loppers nearby- they are indispensable for the occasional right-angle branch that you missed when cutting and stacking earlier.

5. When the knives need sharpening, don't try to get them done locally on the cheap. You probably can't. The "closest" Valby dealer (even though quite far away) sharpens ours quickly and cheaply because he has the correct heavy-duty milling machine. Folks mail them to him from all over for that reason.

Have fun and be careful!

[Dead Horse]

I have one with the hydraulic driven feed and it is awesome. I run it off my 3710 and it will take 8 inch logs. I think the biggest I have ever put through it was some 6 inch beech (blow downs, before I was heating with wood).

Your machine will run a 150. You will need to temper the feed so you don't over load the chipper as 25 HP is not strong enough to power through heavy stuff. The beauty of this is it trains you to pay attention to tractor engine speed and work with the machine rather than doing something stupid.

I have run the chipper off of both tractors, a Hesston 100 - 90 (which will twist that chipper into a pretzel before stalling the engine), and my 3710 which is a much better match for it as the prox 35 PTO HP will not overpower it.

You paid a VERY low price for the unit...... it is worth twice that.

[Red Horse]

Roy, BChip Dhorse.

Picked it up today. Got home and made two attempts at cutting drive shafts-both times still too long. I'll get it right in the AM. The story behind it- guys dad bought it new and didn't like it because he was trying to use it as a mulcher! So his son took it. Has a heavily wooded property and hardly ever used it-would rather push the brush into the woods!

I was skeptical because of faded pix- but other then faded paint and a bent skid, the knives are original and you can cut your finger on them. Guy thinks it has no more than 40 hours on it. By the way, he said it was about 10 years old. I figure its older than that as I thought they stopped making the 150 in like 96. In any case serial no. is 3340578.

If you have your numbers and know age of yours, what would you guess?

[Dead Horse]

That would be about right age wise. i figure mine is prox 15 years old.......original knives which I dress every year with a chain saw file.

This has been more than sufficient to keep them razor sharp and the machine has chipped tons of material It gets used every year, and I prolly put 40 hours on it last year alone.
Check anvil specs, belt tension and grease the inner and outer spindle once a year or so and you will be very happy with it.

These things are bullet proof and hold their value well. I wouldn't take less than $4k for mine and it ain't for sale anyway!