Let's hope it's going to be milled into some fine pine lumber.:thumbsup:
I've had good success scooping and curling up some good sized oak logs with my bucket and toothbar. I can usually push them against another or stump to get under them and curl the bucket enough for them to stay on. If that doesn't work I use a peavy to roll them on to the bucket. The safety caveat is stay low and go slow when moving them. I like this method because I later cut them up for firewood or lumber and I hate dragging them through the dirt if I'm going to use the chainsaw on them later.
Me either; the question was asked earlier if he could buck them into smaller lengths. He stated the weight for a 16'/24" log. He didn't state whether they were all 24" or if they had to stay 16'.
thanks all for the suggestions, images and comments...
I will re-read the posts... but here are a few notes.
I have "surveyed" the trees as best I could and at about 5' off the ground level the largest trees are 22 inches... so my initial 24" was for the butt end +/-.
Comments that the B3030 is a smaller tractor are obviously correct, I go to the dealer and look at some of the bigger machines and they do have more weight and steel than what I have, but I am fortunate to have what I have and so am attempting to not trash the machine.... that's why I posted.
The specs say the 3ph will lift 2139 pounds at the lift point and 1300 pounds 24 inches behind the lift point... so these logs at 16 ft. would be very close to maxing out the lift arms with the box blade option... there is better geometry with the log closer to the lift arm pivot points. I have an "old farm" with virtually no buildings left, just old foundations and 15 acres of field and 70 of woods. The pine will be cut to build a shop-barn of a modest size....mostly for sheathing... so YES I can cut the logs shorter... and likely it will be a necessity with my machine... maybe go to a 9 - 11ft log if it is needed.
I guess I am a bit concerned about chaining directly to the 3ph, with the likely shifting of the log pressure. Am I being penny wise and pound foolish with wear and tear on the hydraulics... hauling logs... or are these rear hydraulics VERY strong... seals etc. I am new to tractors with only about 100 hours in the seat since I bought the used tractor, and that was mostly bush hogging....
I hear you all when you say take it slow and you will know in the first 2-3 ft of hauling. Within limits it is reasonably powerful tractor, but beyond limits things happen fast. I will keep my hand on the pto lever for sure.
I will try to haul when the ground is frozen.
One thing to keep in mind if you're going to skid a log without the box blade on your tractor, please be sure the pulling point is below your rear axle. The factory drawbar is below the axle and is the best place to attach when pulling a heavy load. I know someone that attached the chain higher than the axle and died when the tractor flipped back over. When something like this starts, it happens very quickly, so just a word of caution. Good luck and be safe.
You are going to run out of traction LONG before you will hurt anything. I have a B-7800 that is the same size as your 3030 and I pulled some pretty large stuff with it while cutting firewood. The problem is not lifting the logs but to have enough traction to pull it.
Make yourself a log arch! You'll want it a little bigger than mine, but they work great. ~~ grnspot
Also be real careful if you are near any slopes or hills, if one starts rolling it could take you with it.
If you cut everything ahead of time and have it all lined up another option would be rent a larger machine for the day and get everything out if the longer lengths with out any concerns on the weight
Bucket filled with rocks, chain short to the three point drawbar and lift a little. Start out easy and be ready to stop the tractor and lower three point. Chains will really help in the traction department.:thumbsup: