Box Scraper hauling logs

   / hauling logs #51  
The problem I see is how do you get the dolly under a 1000 lb log? I guess you could lift it with the loader and then slide the dolly under, then move back to the front and hook up to haul. Quite a bit of maneuvering around, my woods roads are pretty close quarters to do that.

Sean

My thinking was more generalized regarding a "dolly" as any kind of wheeled device under the end of the log. If one considers the LogRite junior arch, this device can lift the end of the log and with the handle pulled over the log, acts as a self engaged dolly with no need for use of the tractor to pick up the end of the log. There is a video at the Logrite site showing this use as described.
 
   / hauling logs #52  

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   / hauling logs #53  
That's my plan of attack as well. I try to wait until the ground freezes hard or is bone dry in summer. I much prefer winter, no flies, I stay cooler, and no leaves to deal with on hardwoods.

Our only problem is the window between freeze-up and deep snow not being long enough to get it done. Up to about a foot or eighteen inches of snow is no problem, beyond that it gets tiresome.

Sean

Sean, No truer words have been spoken. Especially the part about the flies and the deep snow.

BTW - on an earlier post you made about a year ago you showed those deflectors on your arch wheels. Well I used that idea and put them on my trail mower. Havent tore a tire off the rim since. Thanks
 
   / hauling logs #54  
Our only problem is the window between freeze-up and deep snow not being long enough to get it done. Up to about a foot or eighteen inches of snow is no problem, beyond that it gets tiresome.

We don't get enough snow to work in here and we don't get a solid freeze up. All we get is enough to make the ground very greasy. Add that to the steep hills on the place here and it makes things difficult.

Ken
 
   / hauling logs #55  
I've had good success scooping and curling up some good sized oak logs with my bucket and toothbar. I can usually push them against another or stump to get under them and curl the bucket enough for them to stay on. If that doesn't work I use a peavy to roll them on to the bucket. The safety caveat is stay low and go slow when moving them. I like this method because I later cut them up for firewood or lumber and I hate dragging them through the dirt if I'm going to use the chainsaw on them later.

Should be no problem. Put the FEL over one end of the tree, chain the log to the FEL and LIFT ONE END OF IT. The FEL on my B2920 can lift 1000lbs, so the OP's B3030 should have no problems with this.

I found that this worked very well for me, as the FEL sticks way out in front, it was easy to position it over one end of the tree. You don't have to really lift the tree very high, just a foot or two off the ground. Having FEL control over the tree also means it's easy to swing the FEL around with steering, and you can lower it quickly should you need to. In my opinion, this is a great option for the OP as he doesn't need to by any additional equipment.

Larry
 
   / hauling logs #56  
I really dont think his B3030 is capable of lifting a 1850lb log with the FEL:confused2:

Sorry about my previous post. It was meant to address this and in my haste I click on the wrong post. So I was trying to answer the above concern that the FEL can't lift a log of 1850 lbs (which it can, just one end, which is all you need for dragging).

Larry
 
   / hauling logs #57  
I believe I read in one of the posts advice was given to drop the 3 point if the front end became airborne. Dropping the 3 point is good but also be ready to disengage the engine power from the drive train - ie clutch the machine. If the airborne condition was caused by the butt of the stump coming in contact with an immovable object (like an old stump) just dropping the 3 point could get you killed. IMHO stop the forward motion of the tractor to be safest.
 
   / hauling logs #58  
I believe I read in one of the posts advice was given to drop the 3 point if the front end became airborne. Dropping the 3 point is good but also be ready to disengage the engine power from the drive train - ie clutch the machine. If the airborne condition was caused by the butt of the stump coming in contact with an immovable object (like an old stump) just dropping the 3 point could get you killed. IMHO stop the forward motion of the tractor to be safest.

You are absolutely right. I dont know how a hst works but on my geared tractor I set the hand throttle and use my right foot for the steering brakes and the dif lock. My left foot has nothing to do but it is always available and ready to stomp on the clutch to disengage power to the wheels.
 
   / hauling logs #59  
The problem I see is how do you get the dolly under a 1000 lb log? I guess you could lift it with the loader and then slide the dolly under, then move back to the front and hook up to haul. Quite a bit of maneuvering around, my woods roads are pretty close quarters to do that.

Sean

Well I envision the log being chained up tight against the top of the quick hitch and raised as high as the 3 point will go. Push the dolly back toward the center of the log as far as it will go by hand. Use chain and binder to secure the dolly. Lower the 3 point to put weight on the dolly. Drive forward.

Disclaimer: never done this before, just thinking out loud.

Another half baked idea. Place an old car ramp under the log to be skidded that is chained to the quick hitch. Using the angle of the ramp to elevate the tail end of the log drive forward a few feet, then place and secure the dolly.

Where there is a will there is a way as my Dad used to say. LOL
 
   / hauling logs #60  
Sorry about my previous post. It was meant to address this and in my haste I click on the wrong post. So I was trying to answer the above concern that the FEL can't lift a log of 1850 lbs (which it can, just one end, which is all you need for dragging).

Larry

If you are implying that he lift one end with the fel and drag in reverse with the fel, that is not a good idea either
 
 
 
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