Box Scraper hauling logs

[davcog]

I used my BX23 to help neighbor clear his lot. Mixed hard and soft wood. Biggest log moved was a hemlock about 21" at butt and 20+ ft long. Set tractor and used backhoe to manuver logs over stumps and pull them up to where they could be twitched to bucking area. If I lost traction I'd drop the log pull ahead tractor length plus 2/3 ft set up and pull log up with backhoe. Kept bucket 1/2 full of dirt as counter weight.

 

[monheganview]

"A quick hitch could be used to lift, secure and control the butt end of a log. Cat 1 QH is 27" wide so your logs would fit nicely.

Then place a two or four wheeled fat tire dolly toward the middle of the log. Probably would have to be secured with chain and binder. Then tow away."

I came across this image on a logging website... and Logrite has a variation in a video with a larger arch up front and a smaller arch at the rear of the log.

My guess is that this approach might work fine but I would be careful to chain up the log so it does not roll.

 

[Chilly807]

I don't know what kind of terrain the OP has to deal with, but some of these ideas I'm seeing would not work on the ground I have, and not on most of the hauling roads either.

Hauling out fence posts and firewood behind the ATV last winter with the arch was like riding a roller coaster, up then down, left and right tilt, slow down a little for the serious bumps and humps and near WOT on snowy uphill climbs. One of the reasons I put the tree deflectors in front of the arch wheels was so I didn't have to slow right down for tight corners, because if you stopped you were done in some cases. Heavy wet snow robs power and traction, momentum was a good thing.

Using the tractor is altogether different though, no suspension and rough roads means you go slow and let the chains and 4x4 get you through the tough spots.

Sean

 

[taborekle]

The reasons are many. I am sure it has been hashed out before.

Here is a list just for starters

1. Less traction in reverse
2. weight distribution is poorer. (lotsa weight up front, not so much in back)
3. 3PH hydraulics are stronger than loader hydraulics
4. With the log elevated in the front it is easy to tip forwatd
5. Loader isnt the strongest to pull from
6. when making turns and pulling from the FEL, you are putting EXTREME side forces on the FEL arms
7. Front axle isnt as strong as rear

ANd plain and simple fact, tractors are made to pull from the rear.

I am sure I missed a bunch.

Well I (and obviously others) disagree with this. I just pulled a cut up tree in several large pieces out of our woods using this technique and I believe it's a very practical way to work. Some of your concerns are answered by:

My tractor is a Kubota B2920 CUT has turf tires, so I have the same traction in reverse as forward. I knew I was dragging with the FEL, so I loaded the 3 point hitch with my carryall which allowed me to carry the chain saw, axe, chain lube, extra fuel and chain, which made a great wood clearing setup, so I had a counterweight. Pivoting a log around with the FEL and the opposite side on the ground shouldn't put severe stress on the loader arms. Since the OP posted the weight of the load and it's within the FEL capacity with reserve, it's also within the range of weights that the front axle is rated for.

Some of the advantages that I see to this are:

It's easier to put the FEL over the log to lift, then the 3PH.
I have more control over the FEL then the 3PH.
The OP would not have to purchase any additional implements or attachments to do this job. They could work with the equipment that they have.

Larry

 

[Chilly807]

Well I (and obviously others) disagree with this. I just pulled a cut up tree in several large pieces out of our woods using this technique and I believe it's a very practical way to work. Some of your concerns are answered by:

My tractor is a Kubota B2920 CUT has turf tires, so I have the same traction in reverse as forward. I knew I was dragging with the FEL, so I loaded the 3 point hitch with my carryall which allowed me to carry the chain saw, axe, chain lube, extra fuel and chain, which made a great wood clearing setup, so I had a counterweight. Pivoting a log around with the FEL and the opposite side on the ground shouldn't put severe stress on the loader arms. Since the OP posted the weight of the load and it's within the FEL capacity with reserve, it's also within the range of weights that the front axle is rated for.

Some of the advantages that I see to this are:

It's easier to put the FEL over the log to lift, then the 3PH.
I have more control over the FEL then the 3PH.
The OP would not have to purchase any additional implements or attachments to do this job. They could work with the equipment that they have.

Larry

While I can see this turning into a pi**ing contest, I'll add that I've MOVED a few logs by using the loader, I've never hauled any that way though. The loader isn't designed to pull, it's meant primarily to lift, with some minor pushing ability, enough to fill the bucket. That is, of course, only my opinion.

I find it pretty awkward backing up any distance with steering on the front wheels, and I can't keep an eye on what the log is doing while I'm watching behind to see where I'm going.

I'd move one this way a short distance, say 50 feet or less, but for any kind of actual distance it's going behind me.

Sean

 

[grnspot110]

Personally, I would want the chain covered, for safety! ~~ grnspot

 

[LD1]

My tractor is a Kubota B2920 CUT has turf tires, so I have the same traction in reverse as forward.

Equal weight distribution......yes that would be correct.

But you dont have equal weight distribution. You have a lot of weight on the front axle (small tires) and not so much on the back vs it you chain and lift and pull with the 3PH. So you would still have more traction pulling going forward simply because you are increasing the weight over the tires that have the most contact (traction) with the ground.

Pivoting a log around with the FEL and the opposite side on the ground shouldn't put severe stress on the loader arms.

I guess this is where we will disagree the MOST. Lifting it is one thing. As soon as you start moving with it, you are imposing stresses on the loader and hydraulics that you are unaware of. Depending on just how high you lift, and just how much ballast you have to keep you from flipping, it is very easy to overload the hydraulics.

Not to mention the side stresses on the loader, which is meant for straight loads, NOT lateral forces. The loader arms can become tweaked very quickly. (you do have to manuver when skidding dont you?)

Since the OP posted the weight of the load and it's within the FEL capacity with reserve, it's also within the range of weights that the front axle is rated for.

The log is over double the capacity of his FEL. His fel has a 882lb capacity at the bucket mid-point:confused2: So it would tax it just lifting. Not to mention now backing up which will try to pull down on the loader even more:confused2:

And kubota doesnt rate their front axles, but his tractor + FEL is probabally in the 2600lb range. Add ~500 for rear ballast and half of the log weight ~925lbs and we are at 4025lbs:confused2: And it is a good possibility that he will have all the weight on the front axle at one time or another. And I dont think the axle is designed for that. For comparison, the JD 4x20 series front axle is rated at only 3500lbs, and that tractor is MUCH bigger.

But hey, it isnt my tractor to tear up, so do whatever?

BTW, I cannot seem to find anywhere in my manual that says pulling in reverse with an elevated FEL is an acceptable practice.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I have an older JD855, 24hp, hydro, turfs, and only weighs about a ton.
When I skidded a bunch of timber the last two falls, I used the trailer moving receiver hitch I built to bolt to a 3pt draw bar. I moved timber the size you mentioned with no problem.

I backed up tight to the log, and picked up the end with the chain hooked to the top of the arm the top link hooked to. Once off the ground, I chained the log up close to the draw bar. That is the chain on the top link arm only lifted, and the chain on the draw bar pulled.

There was enough slack in the pulling chain that the log rode a few inches behind the draw bar so turning wasn't a problem. And yes, it was a little more time consuming to do hook ups and unhooks..........

A factory receiver hitch adapter cost something like $200 and up. I think I have less than $40 in my attachment, including paint........

Good luck with that lottery

Here's my hitch ala Wyobuckaroo & 300UGUY (sorry for the blurry image):

View attachment 243913

I'm working on modifying a $69 Harbor Freight quick hitch into a skidder. The boom pole works, but has it's limitations. It really needs an attachment point about where the two stays are welded for better lift strength and to get the weight closer to the rear axle to reduce front axle lifting. The stays interfere with the log and the bottom cross between the 3PH pins always seems to interfere with the chain to the drawbar.
Working in the woods yesterday I made a real mess dragging this one log. I've been waiting for a good, hard freeze, but it's not here yet. I really need to make a log arch - or grasshopper - thanks for that link, sparc.

Good, Safe methods ^ ^

DANGER V V

Easygo's idea is probably the most economical.

The photo shows a rig that I made that goes a step further. I bought a 3 Pt drawbar from Tractor Supply, a Drawbar Stabilizer from Northern Tool, some flat bar, and a pair of grab hooks from a hardware store. I have mostly used it for waste logs that were smaller than the one hooked up in the photo. If I were to haul anything bigger, I would be sure to carry low, and to have it hitched such that the drawbar would stop it from coming forward.

Another benefit to the Drawbar Stabilizer is that it includes a 2" receiver. I put a ball mount into it when I want to move my utility trailer around with the tractor.

I bought my used tractor with a backhoe on it. I got the 3PT arms and all except the top link (which I replaced from Tractor Supply). However, I did not get the original low drawbar. I may see If I can get one made someday.

Go carefully, and you should be safe.

 

[LD1]

Good, Safe methods ^ ^

DANGER V V

Which category would you put pulling with the log attached to an elevated FEL??

 

[SPYDERLK]

Which category would you put pulling with the log attached to an elevated FEL??

Define elevated. ... Id call it expeditious if it works. A limit to capacity, harder on equipment, inherently less stable. Requires lots of operator attention because its not inherently safe. I do it when it helps get the job done. :confused3:
larry